Brake strength
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 436
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From: Maryland
Brake strength
Im just starting to do brake work on my new c3. It has new calipers and pads, but even with the brake pedal fully depressed it doesn't stop very quickly. When the car is stopped, I can't get the brake pedal to go rock hard, so I believe a bleed is in order. My question is how strong are the stock brakes on the 1982 c3? Trying to see what I should set my expectations at.
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2025 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
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Cruise-In VIII Veteran
Well, they have quad piston Calipers all the way around. Even the aftermarket Calipers won't really make them stop harder with stock sized rotors.
Let's put it this way. If your sitting in my car without your seatbelt on. And I slam the brake at 50 MPH. your going through the windshield!
Let's put it this way. If your sitting in my car without your seatbelt on. And I slam the brake at 50 MPH. your going through the windshield!
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: New Braunfels Texas
The brakes should pull your fillings out......
First thing you check is do you have proper vacuum to the booster?
The other thing is how did you bleed them? There are several different ways but the old tried and true gravity bleed is how I do it.......foolproof.
Jebby
First thing you check is do you have proper vacuum to the booster?
The other thing is how did you bleed them? There are several different ways but the old tried and true gravity bleed is how I do it.......foolproof.
Jebby
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2021
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From: Maryland
I will gravity bleed then. I have not checked vacuum at booster, should I check that before bleed? I saw some post that said if the brake pedal doesn’t go solid when the engine is stopped, then it’s air in the lines
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2021
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From: Maryland
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Thread Starter
Racer
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From: Maryland
Le Mans Master
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You will not notice the level dropping with small leaks.. my lessons learned were a bright light and inspection for leaks..touching around all fittings for any wetness..
Rubber brake lines should be replaced every 10 years min..
Rubber brake lines should be replaced every 10 years min..
Team Owner
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I'll take a stab at an alternative...
Might your rotors have glazing on them from overheated pads in the past? As in how was the car's braking performance before changing out the calipers and pads?
Might your rotors have glazing on them from overheated pads in the past? As in how was the car's braking performance before changing out the calipers and pads?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 436
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From: Maryland
Right so did a bleed with my grandfather today. Brakes are much better, I think im happy with this so far. Thank you all for the help!!
Not sure, prev owner changed the calipers and pads. I bought the car a month ago.
Not sure, prev owner changed the calipers and pads. I bought the car a month ago.
Thread Starter
Racer
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From: Maryland
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If you don't know how old the hoses are, it is time to replace them.
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But do they lock up all 4's??? If not, you have more work to do.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2019
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From: NC
Gravity bleeding is always a good first step in the bleeding process. Do not forget you can bench bleed the MC to make sure the problem is not in there too (a previous owner may not have). Bench bleed the MC before gravity bleeding the system. Even after gravity bleeding, you still need to have someone in the driver seat pump the brake pedal and hold it while you crack the bleeders (starting from furthest to closest to MC). 2-3 rounds of this should bleed the lines. If it does not, and there are "no leaks" be sure to check where the MC mates up to the booster. The seal on the MC could be leaking and it will be sort of hidden in that area.
Also, the vacuum to the booster does not affect the physical braking power of the car, only the amount of pressure on the pedal (they are vacuum assisted). If pedal goes all the way down to the floor...there's a leak or air in the lines, etc....not a vacuum issue at the BB. I'm sure someone will chime in if I am wrong but the booster is not "connected" to the braking system as far as being integral to the actual function of calipers pressing the pistons on the rotors (i.e. the brakes will still work with no vacuum to the booster). My 2 cents and understanding of the system, take it for what's its worth
Also, the vacuum to the booster does not affect the physical braking power of the car, only the amount of pressure on the pedal (they are vacuum assisted). If pedal goes all the way down to the floor...there's a leak or air in the lines, etc....not a vacuum issue at the BB. I'm sure someone will chime in if I am wrong but the booster is not "connected" to the braking system as far as being integral to the actual function of calipers pressing the pistons on the rotors (i.e. the brakes will still work with no vacuum to the booster). My 2 cents and understanding of the system, take it for what's its worth