Is it possible to have a wire tester connected to a mobile metal object? I find it somewhat difficult to connect it to a good ground that’s within range some times.

 

You can make a jumper wire any length you want, just make sure that the ground source you are using is a good COMMON chassis ground.

 

The line diagram from the 1977 electrical troubleshooting manual 4-vettes posted above is the best you will find...
I made this up for another forum member sometime ago...

 

So, new test light?

 

yes I’ll see if I can get to buying it, I just finish building my pc so moneys sorta right till the 10th but I got a thousand dollar check and income tax coming in so I’ll bounce back.

 

Didn't you have a broken part on your "Smart Switch"?

 

If you spend it before it arrives, you will NEVER bounce back...just saying...

 

headlight ground. goes to the headlight support. it is mounted on the end to 2 brackets that are riveted to the fiberglass inner fender. no ground. then there is a black ground wire ftom headlight support to alternator. this is a 10 to 15 year old repop headlight support. never installed in a car. the 45 year old support with a road salt head start on rusting you can barely get clean enough to make contact with a ground wire. the rear light ground is in the same rusty boat. at this point in these car's lives the grounds all have to be found and upgraded or run to a piece of the car that will pass electricity. the center of the car, dash, firewall int has been kept somewhat more dry and less well seasoned with salt.

 

yes the lever to my smart witch is broken, I have to press it manually but regardless it doesn’t work, we came to the conclusion that it was a bad bulb

 

So you can still switch headlights from high beams to low beams at the turn/wiper lever arm

 

no the leaver doesn’t work I press the button under the column with my thumb

 

but in general my low beams never worked

 

You at times are a little hard to follow... Sorry

This is what I understand...

1. The pivot bracket is broken not allowing you to use the lever to change from High Beams to Low Beams.
2. You have NEVER had Low Beams since you have owned the car.
3. You can push the dimmer switch button in by your thumb but the lights ONLY work when switched to High Beams.

You need your test light, Lt.blue wire HOT at dimmer switch with headlight switch pulled full out.
If you have light at Lt.blue wire test Lt.green wire (High Beams)
Push dimmer switch in ONE click with thumb, check if you have light at the Tan wire.

Because your Pivot Bracket is broken and even if you find your dimmer switch is faulty a new dimmer switch will still need to be pressed in with your thumb... What a pain...
I have a inexpensive solution until you can afford to replace the broken parts of your Smart Switch.
This conversion can also be easily reversed so...Save your dimmer switch connector photo 1.
A floor mounted dimmer switch like a 1976 and earlier had.
Floor dimmer Switch ACDelco D808 $11.00 Amazon
Dimmer Pigtail ACDelco PT1994 $7.00 Amazon
I'm willing to help you with this if you go this route, basically make a pigtail the length you need and a M & F/M 3 wire connectors...
Here is kinda a lowdown of the conversion.

 

sounds like a plan, let me study this and get my paycheck