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Does anyone know the differences between '63-'73 half shafts and '74-'79? Is it tube diameter, length or both? The reason I'm asking is because I recently purchased a '68 vert and it had a slight noise from the right rear, u-joint, or so I thought. After removing the shaft I could see metal damage to the ears of the shaft yoke like the joint was running beyond it's angular limit. The u-joints were all in satisfactory condition, so I don't believe a failure caused this. Almost like the wrong shaft got installed at some point. Weird problem.
Shaft diameters changed but the length remained the same.
If the car is jacked, the suspension droops to the point where if you attempt to turn the wheels, the U joints will bind, causing contact with the flanges. Pretty common to find that evidence and so long as someone wasn't attempting to “drive” the car while jacked, the damage will be slight, not enough to cause issues.
Did you check the wheel bearing with the shaft removed? Try to “rock” the wheel between 3 and 9 and 12 and 6 to see if you can detect any looseness.
If the car is jacked, the suspension droops to the point where if you attempt to turn the wheels, the U joints will bind, causing contact with the flanges. Pretty common to find that evidence and so long as someone wasn't attempting to “drive” the car while jacked, the damage will be slight, not enough to cause issues..
100% agree. Also, your spring may not be supporting the car at proper shaft angle (( ie ‘spring is shot’ )) and allowing suspension travel to bind shaft and scar u-joint boss…
Shaft diameters changed but the length remained the same.
If the car is jacked, the suspension droops to the point where if you attempt to turn the wheels, the U joints will bind, causing contact with the flanges. Pretty common to find that evidence and so long as someone wasn't attempting to “drive” the car while jacked, the damage will be slight, not enough to cause issues.
Did you check the wheel bearing with the shaft removed? Try to “rock” the wheel between 3 and 9 and 12 and 6 to see if you can detect any looseness.
I did check the wheel bearing because I initially thought that was the problem, the 3-9-12-6 check was good, (no rocking) but there is a bit more straight axial movement (I'm guessing .008"-.010") than I expected to see. I'll throw an indicator on it tomorrow. The bearing feels super smooth through it's rotation.
I would say, if the car is showing 60k or more clicks on odometer bearings are on last leg, even with smooth rotation and no noise. Ten thousand is more than ya want.
Remember, these parts are not known for their longevity,,,
Soooo, my eyes ain't what they used to be, I put an indicator on it and I got .017" end play. I see that's it's common practice to remove the entire trailing arm to do this, but is it really necessary? I see a few vendors do exchange pre-set up housings, It seems that's the easiest way to go. Am I missing something?
On the car bearing setup has been practiced for years, usually by shops pushing work out fast. Is it accurate? That depends on who does it what they think is accurate. Off the car is better. 017" is bad no question about it, whether it was setup like that (inexcusable) or wore from years of service you need to rebuild the pair and exchanging is not what I would recommend. There are a LOT of people offering arms so you should go by procedure over price or web sites.
Good Luck
Are you willing to tackle rebuilding the arms yourself? Lots of excellent threads here on the forum on how to do it correctly. You’ll need a few special tools but if you are capable, you’ll have the satisfaction of knowing it was done right. For what it costs to ship these days, you can easily cover the cost of the tools.
Trudging forward with disassembly, what are the odds the bottom strut rod pin/shock mount comes out? So far it's looking like I'm going to be cutting the strut rod. yay. Going to let it soak overnight. We'll give her another shot tomorrow.
Trudging forward with disassembly, what are the odds the bottom strut rod pin/shock mount comes out? So far it's looking like I'm going to be cutting the strut rod. yay. Going to let it soak overnight. We'll give her another shot tomorrow.
move or cut away rubber to access that metal barrel under the rubber, that is the part holding it.
drill small hole into barrel but no further and put penetrating oil so it gets under barrel.
move or cut away rubber to access that metal barrel under the rubber, that is the part holding it.
drill small hole into barrel but no further and put penetrating oil so it gets under barrel.
Unbolt the strut rods at the center bracket under the diff and take the rods out still attached to the shock mounts and trailing arms. Then use a press to push the shock mounts out. You'll need a helper to hold everything in position while pressing.