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What’s The silver cylinder looking thing on the cable? I’m trying to adjust the cable and I have plenty of thread but that damn thing is stopping me.
Silver thing is a joiner , someone has added a length of threaded rod to the original threaded rod. The original set up has a hole in the end of the threaded part which that spring goes into .
Is there a different gear box and/or cross member on the car ? , relocating the plastic pulley to clear a 5 speed manual or upgraded box can be a reason to get that.
Silver thing is a joiner , someone has added a length of threaded rod to the original threaded rod. The original set up has a hole in the end of the threaded part which that spring goes into .
Is there a different gear box and/or cross member on the car ? , relocating the plastic pulley to clear a 5 speed manual or upgraded box can be a reason to get that.
1982 c3. pretty sure tranny is all original, though the crossmember might have been changed. This cross member is bolted in, I read somewhere that the original was welded?
how can I get around this thing? I can’t adjust at the shoes any more. The cable is where the slack is
Take it off and see if you can't use it the way it originally was supposed to be.
Wild *** Guess might be the original was frozen and they cut / broke off the end at some point. If so, maybe just shorted it more so that extension isn't in the way
M
1982 c3. pretty sure tranny is all original, though the crossmember might have been changed. This cross member is bolted in, I read somewhere that the original was welded?
how can I get around this thing? I can’t adjust at the shoes any more. The cable is where the slack is
Ok all 82 year had auto boxes. the chassis for auto all had bolt in cross members . Earlier year cars with factory manual g/boxes had the crossmember welded in .
For some reason you now don't have enough cable on the brake handle to reach the one at the back.
If you could post up a pic of the plastic pulley relative to the box it might give us a clue what the "repairer" did?
I'm guessing if you take the joiner off there's not enough rod to get the piece on enough to start the nut ? On the end of the original rod there was a length of unthreaded rod with a hole in it
As mooser suggested , if you can get the joiner and extra rod off ,you could cut more off the original rod to get that joiner clear.
I can get a pic later today. Im not sure why they extended it either. I tried to get the damn thing off earlier today, problem is not sure if its possible. The surface is completely round with no good place to get a grip. ill try again today. What if it doesnt thread off, can I cut it close to the front end of the rod and put a threaded coupler along with some new rod on that end?
Tbh im not sure how they fitted this extension in. Its smooth so I don't think they could thread it on?
So most mechanics dont know how to put the cable back on after replacing and adjusting the ebrake to get the extra room you loosen the cable bracket and swing it down then attach the cable then swing it back up and put the bolt back in
So most mechanics dont know how to put the cable back on after replacing and adjusting the ebrake to get the extra room you loosen the cable bracket and swing it down then attach the cable then swing it back up and put the bolt back in
sorry I’m not sure I follow. Are u referring to the previous mechanic reinstalling the cable?
Yes that’s why they put the extension on .. once the brakes wear in a bit you can get rid of it and not have to swing down the bracket to release the tension on the cable
Ok all 82 year had auto boxes. the chassis for auto all had bolt in cross members . Earlier year cars with factory manual g/boxes had the crossmember welded in .
For some reason you now don't have enough cable on the brake handle to reach the one at the back.
If you could post up a pic of the plastic pulley relative to the box it might give us a clue what the "repairer" did?
I'm guessing if you take the joiner off there's not enough rod to get the piece on enough to start the nut ? On the end of the original rod there was a length of unthreaded rod with a hole in it
As mooser suggested , if you can get the joiner and extra rod off ,you could cut more off the original rod to get that joiner clear.
so what I might do is cut the rood at the most forward end of it, and put a coupler there and extend the rod to the length that it is at right now. Essentially moving the coupler up. is a 1 inch coupler good enough?
When the coupling is removed, if the end if the existing cable shaft has the hole, fix whatever is wrong down the line (check the cross over cables etc)
If the rod is already cut / broken, shorten it by whatever you need to take the slack out of the system
Keep in mind that the corvette parking brake was more "wishful thinking" than an actual useful thing
M
When the coupling is removed, if the end if the existing cable shaft has the hole, fix whatever is wrong down the line (check the cross over cables etc)
If the rod is already cut / broken, shorten it by whatever you need to take the slack out of the system
Keep in mind that the corvette parking brake was more "wishful thinking" than an actual useful thing
M
It has a hole in it, the rod wasn’t cut. What do you mean by fix what’s down the line? I’ve already adjusted boots, and the cable themselves look fine. I tried pulling the cable without the extension to the thing, but it wasn’t long enough.
Your golden then
At some time someone put that extender on so just try to figure out if it was needed due to wrong cables / setup / incompetence
My first guess would be a set of new cables or pad or something and everything was tight so they couldn't get it together easy without adding that piece. Now that things are settled / stretched you shouldn't need it. It's a bit of a pain to get it together (as mentioned above) but it's doable with the right curse words
Put the extender away and don't cut the cable
M
Your golden then
At some time someone put that extender on so just try to figure out if it was needed due to wrong cables / setup / incompetence
My first guess would be a set of new cables or pad or something and everything was tight so they couldn't get it together easy without adding that piece. Now that things are settled / stretched you shouldn't need it. It's a bit of a pain to get it together (as mentioned above) but it's doable with the right curse words
Put the extender away and don't cut the cable
M
ok thank you. Where’s the cable bracket that I have to loosen? Don’t see the steps on the shop manual.
I have no idea what foreman was referring to as the bracket. Don't think I've checked the manual but the way I do mine is to leave the spring off so everything hangs down a bit, put the cross-cable onto the threaded rod and then the nut (I used nylocs) and then once it's threaded on a few turns put the spring on and then tighten the nuts up to adjust.
If that doesn't work you could pull the clips off the cables on the trailing arm and pull the cable sleeves out of the brackets to give enough slack to get the nut started and then put them back onto the arms