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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
the fluid is probably gas from a gas leak. If you dont take it out on the highway and floor it the fuel in those outer carbs ill collect water and eat your carb main bodies and bowls. I have atleast 3 carbs that are no good because of it.
Not only do you need a tune up but you are going to need new tires. If those tires are 20 years old you are going to blow a tire and have a really bad day.
Great looking car buy the way. Hope you get that tune and can enjoy her more
Of course I love spending other peoples money... but you may consider having that carburetor gone through as well.
Given just what you've said in this thread... carburetor, timing, tune up, points, distributor, should all be new or rebuilt.
This car warrants this treatment right out of the gate.
Let the right mechanic or race shop get hold of the set up & tune up and you'll be good to go. You certainly won't regret doing this.
You'll never know what this car is all about until you do it. Good luck.
Get a hold of Lars for his papers on tuning and timing. And covert the vacuum advance to manifold vacuum. Since I don't beat on mine, I use Sunoco Gt 98 octane unleaded. Once in awhile, I toss in a gallon or so of 112 leaded fuel.
Get a hold of Lars for his papers on tuning and timing. And covert the vacuum advance to manifold vacuum. Since I don't beat on mine, I use Sunoco Gt 98 octane unleaded. Once in awhile, I toss in a gallon or so of 112 leaded fuel.
I am proud, and grateful to say that both my carb & distributor were thoroughly rebuilt by Lars many years ago. Both still in top form.
there’s a pool of yellow/black fluid on top of the block
What I notice here is that the inlet flare fittings have teflon tape on the threads......this is a sure fire tell that whoever worked on this did not have a clue to what they were doing........sorry, but true.
If you know how to work on vintage cars then you know how a flare fitting works.....
I don't want to pick apart your car.....but this stuff is more common than not.....
I have heard of Karls Kustoms and they will be able to take care of you......
There is more misinformation on vintage cars out there than in Politics/Media right now.......it is very bad......
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
If you ever worked on these carbs you will know that that tape is unfortunately necessarynecessary. .Just to change jets the carbs have to come off to get the bowls off. Those threads on the bowls are so dainty and fragile that you have to hold that 7/8-20 adapter and then would have to crank on that fuel line to get it to seal. Most tri power mechanics I've read or talked to say it is a necessary evil. I've never had an issue but I pay close attention not to get any tape in the carb
Best bet would be to switch over to braided fuel line with AN- fittings
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Mar 2, 2022 at 09:35 PM.
If the tape is the difference between seal and no seal there is an issue... Sometimes I use a little lithium grease on the threads to keep from galling, however no amount of teflon tape ever kept a flare fitting from leaking.
L71 should have a transistorized Ignition so there would be no points to set or worry about.
Does the car die when you are stopped OR does it cough then die when you accelerate away from a stop?
The idle on an auto is set with the car in drive... so in drive a L71 should be IIRC 800, which in park will probably be 1100 1200.
IF the cam is larger OR the trans was modified /the torque converter is not the original these could also cause idle problems.
I believe the L88 auto would bark the tires when moving the shift lever from park to rev.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
You want leaks? you want to drive it or show it? I dont want a fire personally. You wanted options, there they are. with a "flexible line" you have more options of getting them tight and not leaking. I have the original steel lines myself and I live with the major pain in the *** they create on a performance motor with tuning and all. When my new build goes in I was looking at re-evaluating those stupid steel lines myself
2025 C3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers
you drive that car or just polish the fenders there, Jack? Keeping it nice for the next owner?
No need for name calling "J A C K ".............. if installed correctly they shouldn't leak. MINE DON'T LEAK ........... and they didn't come off the ***embly line leaking !
Obviously you don't know me, it's driven all the time 3,000 - 5,000 miles annually weather permitting. No issues, dry as can be.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Originally Posted by medicdunlap
thanks for advice.
I overspent and didn’t do my due diligence.
Now I can’t even drive around the block.
My 76 ran better than this.
If its your carbs then you can concentrate on the center carb. It will go fine on just the center. IF you have the time you can take all three off and send them to Holley and get them completely serviced. Im having one of my sets gone through now. I will let you know what they come back like.
Heads up though, I had a complete set I got here as cores, and sent them in....the 2 outboards where completely corroded behind the fuel plates. I had to strip the 2 working ones off my motor and strip them to the housing and send that in so those will come back working. I then went and bought 2 NOS carbs that were in a shop[ as displays then lost in inventory for years..