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1982 CFI here. Came back from a drive today, put my car on my lift and raise it up, and I see a good amount of liquid dripping from the front passenger side of the car. Looks like coolant based on location, but cant confirm that nor can I confirm the source. I bring the car down and check the coolant reservoir, its level is on the cold line as per usual. What is happening? If it was a coolant leak, shouldn't the coolant levels in the reservoir drop?
Also might be a good time for me to state the behavior of my cooling system. I refilled my coolant to the cold line a while ago and it hasn't moved since. Even while the car is hot and running, the coolant stays at the cold line. My engine temp gauge goes to about 190, occasionally goes to 200 when highway driving but I haven't seen it exceed 200. Oil temp goes to about 190 on highway, drops to maybe 160 in stop and go traffic. Today, behavior was like this as well, I never have seen unusual readings from the engine temp gauge. I know this fluid isnt brake fluid thats leaking, because the reservoirs are still at full. I dont think its power steering either because of location. What could be happening?
Radiator cap functioning? If coolant full the cap should allow expansion and draw the coolant back if working.
AC wasn't running. Also have the compressor unplugged. Heater was running though.
Ill check all that tommorow. I have a video too but having trouble uploading it.
Also, what do you mean by it should draw coolant back if working?
Feel the liquid between your fingers – slippery? sticky? water-like?
Does it rinse off your fingers with just water? Or is soap required?
Blot it with a white paper towel – what color is it?
What does it smell like – petroleum/oil-like? sweet? nothing?
What is directly above the puddle – the radiator area? mid-point where the steering linkage is? just in front of the footwell? And how far between the oil pan and side of the body?
Heres a video of it. Ignore the massive oil leak (self lubricating chassis mod). It was hot, and looking at it now that its cooled, I can say with 99% confidence that it is coolant. The dripping is on the passenger side.
AC wasn't running. Also have the compressor unplugged. Heater was running though.
Ill check all that tommorow. I have a video too but having trouble uploading it.
Also, what do you mean by it should draw coolant back if working?
@interpon is correct. If your system is reaching operating temp and pressure, the rad cap should open at 15 psi and let fluid into the reservoir. It should also draw fluid FROM the reservoir as it cools. All this requires a sealed system, a dip tube in the coolant reservoir, and all working components. Often, the solution is as simple as a new rad cap. Some caps have a second vacuum valve, some do not. You need one that has it.
What's the level in the radiator? It should be filled to the tippy-top when cold.
holy cow that's a lot .. and if coolant and you do not see overflow bottle change stop!
open cap when cold and check level as mentioned above!
pics of cap? more pics the merrier..color of coolant in radiator? match with leak?
a massive leak may not let the cap flow out thus no coolant in bottle..
use water in radiator and find leak , once fixed refill proper coolant
@interpon is correct. If your system is reaching operating temp and pressure, the rad cap should open at 15 psi and let fluid into the reservoir. It should also draw fluid FROM the reservoir as it cools. All this requires a sealed system, a dip tube in the coolant reservoir, and all working components. Often, the solution is as simple as a new rad cap. Some caps have a second vacuum valve, some do not. You need one that has it.
What's the level in the radiator? It should be filled to the tippy-top when cold.
Ill check the level. So when engine temp approaches 190 (my thermostat is 190), I should see coolant flowing into the reservoir?
Ill check the level. So when engine temp approaches 190 (my thermostat is 190), I should see coolant flowing into the reservoir?
not if your leak is not allowing pressure to build...the level should move up as it gets hot (pressure expands in closed loop coolant) pushing into bottle raising level, and when cooling the pick up tube allows the contraction of coolant to draw it back into radiator (as mentioned above 15 psi cap)
holy cow that's a lot .. and if coolant and you do not see overflow bottle change stop!
open cap when cold and check level as mentioned above!
pics of cap? more pics the merrier..color of coolant in radiator? match with leak?
a massive leak may not let the cap flow out thus no coolant in bottle..
use water in radiator and find leak , once fixed refill proper coolant
ill get all of that tonight. Thanks for the help. So when should the coolant reach the "hot" line in the reservoir?
not if your leak is not allowing pressure to build...the level should move up as it gets hot (pressure expands in closed loop coolant) pushing into bottle raising level, and when cooling the pick up tube allows the contraction of coolant to draw it back into radiator (as mentioned above 15 psi cap)
not if your leak is not allowing pressure to build...the level should move up as it gets hot (pressure expands in closed loop coolant) pushing into bottle raising level, and when cooling the pick up tube allows the contraction of coolant to draw it back into radiator (as mentioned above 15 psi cap)
One more thing. If the radiator level is low, and I don't fill it but I replace the cap, should I expect it to draw the coolant from the reservoir immediently?
One more thing. If the radiator level is low, and I don't fill it but I replace the cap, should I expect it to draw the coolant from the reservoir immediently?
No! If you want to find your leak buy or borrow a "radiator pressure tester" . Simple as that. Regards, LowSporty
You may certainly need a new cap and pressure testing, but I don't think that alone is causing the leak. Can you see anything from the topside?
Check the hoses and connections at the water pump and intake manifold; likewise see if the water pump is securely bolted to the block. If all that checks out, I might suspect a cracked water pump housing.
Does the engine run fine – good idle, acceleration, no misses, no white smoke/steam?
You may certainly need a new cap and pressure testing, but I don't think that alone is causing the leak. Can you see anything from the topside?
Check the hoses and connections at the water pump and intake manifold; likewise see if the water pump is securely bolted to the block. If all that checks out, I might suspect a cracked water pump housing.
Does the engine run fine – good idle, acceleration, no misses, no white smoke/steam?
Cant see cause from the top, but view space is limited. Its not in the thermostat housing, and upper radiator hose looks ok too. Need to look closer, might need to dismantle stuff too. Im also gonna need to clean off this oil around the engine, I can't see sh**
not if your leak is not allowing pressure to build...the level should move up as it gets hot (pressure expands in closed loop coolant) pushing into bottle raising level, and when cooling the pick up tube allows the contraction of coolant to draw it back into radiator (as mentioned above 15 psi cap)
not if your leak is not allowing pressure to build...the level should move up as it gets hot (pressure expands in closed loop coolant) pushing into bottle raising level, and when cooling the pick up tube allows the contraction of coolant to draw it back into radiator (as mentioned above 15 psi cap)
level was at top when I removed cap. The cap being at an angle is annoying though. Also note, 16lbs cap not 15. Thoughts on this? Shouldn’t this have dropped if coolant was leaking? And why is the cap 1lbs greater?
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