Great!! Before you take things apart and order anything do this: clamp a big vice grip pliers onto the steering box input shaft below the rag joint, then tie the back of the pliers firmly against the engine/frame, block of wood, etc with a piece of small rope or whatever you have on hand (basically so the pliers won't move). The pliers doesn't need to be super tight on the shaft (where it would leave deep marks, you don't want that). Once the pliers is secured firmly, gently wiggle the steering wheel. It should be tight with barely no movement. If you feel a slight amount of micro-movement, then investigate the parts between the wheel and the steering box for wear. If the flexible coupler is relatively new/good as you say, no need to replace it.

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thank you for the words of wisdom! This will be my next project and hopefully finish it before it goes into the body shop for repaint in a few weeks.

 

Update. I unintentionally messed up the setting of my steering box and I’m wondering if there is a way to rest the adjustments without taking it out. I’m at a point where I may replace it but was looking to see if I could salvage it first. Coupler is in good shape. Had to tighten down some slop in the ds spindle but now the steering is too stiff and won’t go back to zero after turns. Any advice or should I replace?

 

I wouldn't advise trying. Honestly, for the little work it takes to remove the steering box, you should take it out of the vehicle. Removing it isn't that difficult and it really is the only way to get the adjustment right. For one, the upper worm bearing (input bearing) is somewhat light-duty and often rust/corrode. If you have that issue you'll NEVER get the pre-load set right. And you can't tell if there's an issue with that bearing w/o removing the box. But it's also easy to replace that bearing and not expensive (if necessary). You can't check the integrity of it on the car. It's worth the half hour or hour it'll take to get the box off the car to get your steering as good as it can be with what you have.

To remove the box: Spray down the side frame mounting bolts/nuts with penetrating fluid for a day or two in advance. You might want to check the flexible coupler (rag joint) before you remove the box in case it needs replacing (see next email down). When you're ready to remove the box, put the front of the car up on jackstands, Remove the driver's side wheel. Remove the center-link control valve at the pitman arm (you can leave the pitman arm on the box, then the bolts at the rag joint. Then the bolts that hold to the frame. You can rent (for free) at Autozone or OReilly a steering front end removal kit and the tools make removing the stud from the pitman arm real easy: https://www.ebay.com/itm/402442951235

Then, once out of the car, put the steering box in a big bench vise or sitting on a bench and first: check the action of the input bearing (rotate input shaft back/fourth) by hand. If the action feels gritty by rotating by hand, then replace that input bearing (easy to do). If the action feels smooth, then check the output shaft for [play]. Then put the input shaft in the 'center' position ...and loosen the top screw. The first adjustment is the Pre-load per the PDF in the next email. You got to get the preload right. Then (and only then) you adjust the top screw.

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See these pages out of the corvette service manual for the how-to and pg 7 for the adjustment specs:
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...verhaulpdf.pdf

Since you probably don't own an inch lbs torque wrench that goes down to 5-8 inch lbs ...try the following, to use as a reference guide and you should be able to get your steering box adjusted back in shape again:

8-10 inch lbs: Put a medium length 3/8" extension in a ratchet. Squeeze the extension really tight ..almost as tight as you can, and rotate the extension. The resistance at the ratchet is ~8-10 in/lbs.

15 in/lbs: Put a deep well socket, (1/2" bolt size, not an impact socket) in your 3/8" ratchet and, again, squeeze the socket tight as you can and rotate the ratchet so the socket rotates smoothly while you are continuing to squeeze really HARD. The resistance on the ratchet is about 15 in/lbs.

Be sure to check the steering box's output shaft for any 'looseness' of the bronze bushing (even the most minute amount). And also your steering rag joint. Sometimes they can get 'sloppy' and you can't tell by 'eye'. Put a vise grips on the steering box shaft (not super tight ..just firm) and tie the vise grips pliers to something solid (frame, manifold ..or block of wood wedged in between). You can use just normal string or light rope. Get the pliers so it won't move. Then go inside your car and gently saw the wheel back-fourth and feel for any free-play. If there is some you will want to address it. Best of luck.

 

Thank you for the information and link. I will be taking this on at some point in the near future

 

I used Bair's and they did a nice job with very quick turnaround.
I sent in my box and had it back in under 2 weeks.
Just another option for you to consider.

 

Same here.

 

Good suggestion. What was the cost out of curiousity?
Probably a great way to go for those not accustomed to doing that type of work or lacking the tools, desire, etc. A good, tight steering box will transform the driving/owning experience of a corvette, compared to one with loose and lousy steering. It's one of the most overlooked items on these corvettes I swear.

 

$185

 

That price probably makes it not worth doing on your own, unless a guy wants the experience and feeling of DIY.

 

The rebuild kit is just under $100. But does not include worm gear if needed. New worm gear is like $200. I’ll have to check on bairds

 

I can’t find my before and after pictures but this thread has some pictures of a box that Bairs rebuilt

Steering Box Rebuild

 

thanks for that. I will be pulling it out hopefully before it goes in for repaint next month.

 

Well I decided to save some time and (hopefully hassle) and buy a rebuilt box. I’ll be putting it in in the next few weeks.

 

Before I swap steering boxes, is there something I should check on the newly rebuilt unit?

 

Did the (re)builder mark the center, or will you be counting turns?

 

You might take a 12pt socket with a short handle 3/8" ratchet and rotate the box left and right and there should be light resistance on it. (mark center first if they didn't already). Otherwise, I can't think of anything to do on the box.

I didn't go back and re-read all the posts, did you say you put a new control valve on a yr or so ago? That should be fine then. And the flexible coupler is good too, right?

Can't wait to hear how it goes... good luck

 

I don’t see any center mark. Do I just turn it end to end and divide by to to get the center position? Yes, control valve is less than 2 years old and no leaks. New coupler on the way as a while I’m at it since the one in their seems ok but cheap enough to go ahead and do.

 

What year is your car? I thought there was an index in the splines, or a flat spot?
Otherwise, you'll have do divide in half.

You should have nice and tight steering once everything's installed. Let us know how it goes and your impressions before/after.