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I took the car out Friday evening, and when I drove home, it was stuttering on acceleration and the lights got progressively dimmer. It nearly died on my street as I went to back into the garage, then did die in my driveway, with headlights no brighter than candles. Trying to restart to pull into garage didn't even click the solenoid. Was assuming alternator went out and I'd killed the battery with lights & heater on.
10 minutes later, I checked the battery and it showed 11.9V, i.e. low, but not "nothing electrical will work at all" low. I threw a charger on it for 10 minutes and then it started right up and I pulled it into the garage. Yesterday it started/ran fine.
Your first guess,,,,, I’d replace the voltage regulator, pretty cheep and easy to do, most local parts stores have them in stock.
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Hopefully your gauge was telling you the same thing,,(if it’s working),,,
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.A easy place to start,,,
i would check to see if the alternator is keeping the battery charged properly. With the car turned off, put your multimeter in the volts position and check the DC voltage. Place the positive (usually red) lead on the pos terminal and the negative (usually black) lead on the negative terminal - should be in the 12.2 - 12.8 range. Now start the car (with no accessories running) and check the voltage - should be in the 13.8 to 14.2 range. Now turn on the lights and you should see a slight dip and then the voltage go back up - indicating the regulator is doing it's job. On my 69, the regulator is integral to the alternator. Now if all this checks out, you should be good to go in this area. If not, have your alternator tested at a shop or replaced.
If you replaced the battery and the issue was the alternator or the integral regulator, the battery will die again.
Now if all this checks out, you should be good to go in this area. If not, have your alternator tested at a shop or replaced..
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If you did all this,, you just did the alternator test.. so,, if its not putting out properly, it tested bad, , ,
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.Your Guage on the dash should be telling you the same thing,,,, [ if the Guage is working properly ]....
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If you did all this,, you just did the alternator test.. so,, if its not putting out properly, it tested bad, , ,
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.Your Guage on the dash should be telling you the same thing,,,, [ if the Guage is working properly ]....
Your right - if it fails those tests outlined it probably is time to get a new alternator.
I took the car out Friday evening, and when I drove home, it was stuttering on acceleration and the lights got progressively dimmer. It nearly died on my street as I went to back into the garage, then did die in my driveway, with headlights no brighter than candles. Trying to restart to pull into garage didn't even click the solenoid. Was assuming alternator went out and I'd killed the battery with lights & heater on.
10 minutes later, I checked the battery and it showed 11.9V, i.e. low, but not "nothing electrical will work at all" low. I threw a charger on it for 10 minutes and then it started right up and I pulled it into the garage. Yesterday it started/ran fine.
Any ideas?
Sounds like the engine was running off the battery and a good battery should show 12.5v.
put the battery on an auto charger overnight. Next day check the voltage, if 12.5 fire it up and check the voltage at the battery running. It should show 14.5v. If it’s 12.5 or less you can assume the alternator may not charging. Still the alternator may be ok so clean all your grounds and positive contacts from the alternator back to the battery. Check it again, still 12.5 check at the alternator. If the alternator is putting out work your way back to the battery.