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Old Apr 18, 2022 | 11:20 PM
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Default Stripped spark plug hole

Hello, 82 owner. Getting done with the intake manifold gasket and spark plug job, and just found out my #3 spark plug has a stripped hole. Plug kinda tightens, but just as it gets snug, it becomes loose again. I wanna put a save-a-thread into it, but I’m at a crossroads. For the record, I’m not gonna take the head off. I just don’t have the time for it, so it’s not even an option for me.

Now, question that I wanted to ask you all, should I do it myself (I have no experience) or take it to an experienced shop that’s gonna charge $500? I am capable of doing it, but I’m afraid of messing it up. The hole is in a frankly cramped spot. Any advice will be appreciated. Thank you
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Apr 19, 2022, 07:17 AM
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Well, I'm a mechanic, and no I wouldn't charge 500 bucks to helicoil a hole.
There are 2 ways to do this. The right way does mean pull the head.
The cheat way is to have the intake valve open, and while blowing compressed air into the intake port so air is blasting out the plug hole. Run your tap in for your helicoil and pray that all the chips get blown out as you cut them. Install your helicoil and again when you break off the tang. have a ton of air blowing through. Most times you can get away with the cheat method, sometimes you miss a chip.
If the offending plug hole is difficult to get to with a tap.
Like it or not. off with the head.
And now is where the 500 dollar mechanic bill comes in.
Old Apr 19, 2022 | 06:01 AM
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I can't speak to your capabilities so that is a call only you can make. There are a number of YouTube videos on the subject you can draw from, and the repair kit runs anywhere from $15 to $100. There is going to be some disassembly required, at a minimum you will need to remove the exhaust manifold and any other items in that area so you have good access to the bad spark plug hole.

I have never done this myself and if presented with this issue I would just pull the head and replace it, but I'm funny like that.

Good luck, let us know how this works out for you.

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Old Apr 19, 2022 | 07:17 AM
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Well, I'm a mechanic, and no I wouldn't charge 500 bucks to helicoil a hole.
There are 2 ways to do this. The right way does mean pull the head.
The cheat way is to have the intake valve open, and while blowing compressed air into the intake port so air is blasting out the plug hole. Run your tap in for your helicoil and pray that all the chips get blown out as you cut them. Install your helicoil and again when you break off the tang. have a ton of air blowing through. Most times you can get away with the cheat method, sometimes you miss a chip.
If the offending plug hole is difficult to get to with a tap.
Like it or not. off with the head.
And now is where the 500 dollar mechanic bill comes in.
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Old Apr 19, 2022 | 07:44 AM
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I learned a long time ago. You always have time to do a job the right way, the second time. Aside from the fact that you already did the intake manifold, I would suggest pulling the head. Way easier to do this on the bench than in the bay. Just my $.02. Good luck.
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Old Apr 19, 2022 | 08:11 AM
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try a plug with longer thread first.
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Old Apr 19, 2022 | 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by derekderek
try a plug with longer thread first.
Sorry for asking, but how would this help? And wouldn’t this risk the spark plug going into the cylinder itself?
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Old Apr 19, 2022 | 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 4-vettes
Well, I'm a mechanic, and no I wouldn't charge 500 bucks to helicoil a hole.
There are 2 ways to do this. The right way does mean pull the head.
The cheat way is to have the intake valve open, and while blowing compressed air into the intake port so air is blasting out the plug hole. Run your tap in for your helicoil and pray that all the chips get blown out as you cut them. Install your helicoil and again when you break off the tang. have a ton of air blowing through. Most times you can get away with the cheat method, sometimes you miss a chip.
If the offending plug hole is difficult to get to with a tap.
Like it or not. off with the head.
And now is where the 500 dollar mechanic bill comes in.
The way I saw to keep chips out is apply a lot of grease to the tap, so the chips stick to it. Reapply after every rotation. Also I have a cast iron head so I think I can bring the cylinder up to close to tdc and run compressed air or a magnet. It’s honestly not the chips I’m worried about, it’s the approach angle especially the step where I have to hammer it to expand the knurls
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Old Apr 19, 2022 | 09:57 AM
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put in a longer thread plug. see if it tightens down or also strips. then turn motor with a wrench to see-feel if it hits the piston. it won't.
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Old Apr 19, 2022 | 11:00 AM
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Oh wow ok. From watching head removal videos I always thought that the piston intersects with the spark plug hole because it’s an interference engine. So there is no risk of the piston hitting the plug?
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Old Apr 19, 2022 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by nitan2k
Oh wow ok. From watching head removal videos I always thought that the piston intersects with the spark plug hole because it’s an interference engine. So there is no risk of the piston hitting the plug?
Rotate the crank until the piston is at T.D.C. as other members said.
Place the bottom shoulder of a dial caliper against the shoulder of the stripped hole.
Then insert the "tail" of a dial caliper into the hole u til it contacts the piston...write down the measurement.
Make sure the longer plug that derek suggested is shorter than the dial caliper measurement!
Use a dab of antisieze on the threads of the new plug just to be safe.
Derek and others may know how many threads need to be engaged on the new spark plug to prevent it from being blown out of the running engine.
Of course there are risks involved you may not want to take.
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Old Apr 19, 2022 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by nitan2k
Oh wow ok. From watching head removal videos I always thought that the piston intersects with the spark plug hole because it’s an interference engine. So there is no risk of the piston hitting the plug?
Interference Engines are usually piston to valve contact. Both of those moving parts avoid each other due to cam timing. ( a rubber belt no less)
When those two do NOT avoid each other, you will witness some of the most spectacular photos in the automotive world.

A sparkplug never changes its location.

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Apr 19, 2022 at 01:16 PM.
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Old Apr 19, 2022 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by doorgunner
Rotate the crank until the piston is at T.D.C. as other members said.
Place the bottom shoulder of a dial caliper against the shoulder of the stripped hole.
Then insert the "tail" of a dial caliper into the hole u til it contacts the piston...write down the measurement.
Make sure the longer plug that derek suggested is shorter than the dial caliper measurement!
Use a dab of antisieze on the threads of the new plug just to be safe.
Derek and others may know how many threads need to be engaged on the new spark plug to prevent it from being blown out of the running engine.
Of course there are risks involved you may not want to take.
will do. Thanks. does it need to be exact tdc or close? asking because I don't know how to find TDC on the #3 cylinder, just #1.
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Old Apr 19, 2022 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
Interference Engines are usually piston to valve contact. Both of those parts avoid each other due to cam timing.
A sparkplug never changes its location.
What if the spark plug protrudes? doesnt it intersect the path of the piston? Sorry for asking again I'm just having trouble imagining this.
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Old Apr 19, 2022 | 01:15 PM
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JB weld it in and change the head in 30,000 miles.
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Old Apr 19, 2022 | 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by nitan2k
What if the spark plug protrudes? doesnt it intersect the path of the piston? Sorry for asking again I'm just having trouble imagining this.
No. A mile away. Ok, maybe a half mile away.
Pistons rarely enter the combustion chamber near the plug. It would have to be a "Domed Piston". And even then, there is plug clearance unless somebody put a extra long electrode in there.
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Old Apr 19, 2022 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
No. A mile away. Ok, maybe a half mile away.
Pistons rarely enter the combustion chamber near the plug. It would have to be a "Domed Piston". And even then, there is plug clearance unless somebody put a extra long electrode in there.
oh wow ok. Then I’m confused why is doorgunner suggesting I measure the distance between the hole and the piston?
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Old Apr 19, 2022 | 11:14 PM
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Also, @derekderek, how many threads do I need for it to be secure? I got a plug with 5 extra threads.
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Old Apr 20, 2022 | 02:08 AM
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I would pull the head. The idea of doing it is worse than the actual task. Really.
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Old Apr 20, 2022 | 04:28 AM
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Sorry, I would pull the head as well. It's just not that hard, a for the price of a couple gaskets.
A longer plug is a really bad idea. You will be lucky to have more than one usable thread left. And blowing a plug out while running is never a good thing.
If it's worth fixing, it's worth fixing right!
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Old Apr 20, 2022 | 07:24 AM
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i would pull the head as well. but OP is reluctant. he or prev owner may have been using a too-short plug when thread got hurt. it is a 462624 head. cheap and common. but these are not daily drivers. see what you need before buying parts. once one head comes off, replacing the pair must be considered. maybe ask bucaneer if any aftermarket or other replacement heads work well with crossfire. i know vortecs do not. the intake will not fit.

Last edited by derekderek; Apr 20, 2022 at 07:54 AM.
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