When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i hope i am not the only person who pulls their hair out when working on car. I have 1975 corvette and it was running fine. Tried to start it yesterday and i don't get any clicking when turning over. Battery is good, brand new.. Lights and all accessories work fine. my first guess is the starter, tapped it several times and still nothing. I know i can pop the clutch and get it started, but unfortunately, i am not able to push it or have anyone that can help me push it ( I am in a temporary rental and don't know anyone here) I was thinking of bypassing starter solenoid with a screwdriver. But I do have some questions:
Is this safe for car and is it advisable?
Since ii am alone, and car is standard, is it okay just to put car in neutral while i am outside attempting the jump?
Do I turn ignition key on?
if i can get it going at least i can drive it to a shop to have it checked out.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Yes you can do it, if you have a auto parts store nearby they sell a remote starter switch that is just a trigger with very small jumper cable clips on them, that will make it easy. It may be a little difficult leaning down in there if you have headers. Just make sure it in neutral and chock the wheels and use the parking brake if it works.
All you are doing is bypassing a giant relay. IF you have alligator clips on 12-10 gauge jumper wire you can do it with that, just put a momentary switch on it. you arent using the full amperage of the battery just to exite the solenoid. If yo ucan get it to move, go try the key. Also if you dont hear the solenoid click it could be your ignition switch. Try tapping the solenoid as well, it could just be frozen
No. It is not safe to jump a screwdriver across. You could fry things like the Fuse-able Link, fry the solenoid or maybe even an ALT diode.
To even see the solenoid lug terminals, you need to be under the car. That means it needs to be up on ramps. Can't do that if it won't start.
Starters live a long time. The solenoid dies four times to one starter replacement. Most people just swap out the whole combo on a perfectly good starter.
I 'm betting on a poor GRD. More specifically the one under the battery box. With a poor GRD you will have lights, radio, wipers & dome light. But not enough connection to crank it over. But again, you have to get the vehicle up in the air to clean the corrosion off.
If you were 16-18 years of age I would say roll that sucker, jump in and pop the clutch.
Because this sounds like a temporary situation just purchase a cheap remote starter switch.
Most major big box auto parts stores have them or can get one within a day or so.
One clamp on battery lug of solenoid the other on the "S" terminal, ignition switch on push the button starter should turn over unless solenoid is completely fubar
Amazon example:
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
you can jack it up slowly and get it on jack stands. ITs scary as hell to do but doable. If you try block the rear tires with te E brake on and get the front up and use as many jack stands as you can get under there. I use them on the a arms as well as anything that can get a good purchase that wont slip. Once it high enough to get something under the front tires do that too incase the jack stands slip. It will give you enough time to get out from under neath it
I have jumped the solenoid with a beater screwdriver that many times I seriously couldn't remember the count.
To the guy who thinks you will fry a fusible link and such.
YOUR NUTS!
All you are doing is sending battery power to the solenoid electromagnetic circuit. Simply bypassing the key and all the safety switches. NO POWER goes out any wires and in no way endangers your car.
Jump away.
If the car starts. you know the starter is good and the problem is elsewhere. If it doesn't. Start testing the solenoid and starter.
But what do I know. I've only been a professional mechanic for 50 Years.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I forgot these newer cars have safety stuff. Have you bypassed the clutch safety switch. Try that and any other safety switches you have. Make sure its in neutral....gotta say that everytime
Yup Rodger, that's right up there with " Disconnect Battery first"!
Although in this case perhaps disconnecting the battery could be counter productive.
A Fusible Link melts as a way of protecting a circuit. A direct short such as the Fusible Link to ground will melt the link.
Just as a misplaced wrench or accidently touching a screwdriver from the starter case (GRD) to one of the solenoid studs (POS) could blow the link.
This is why its a good policy to remove the NEG Batt before working on a starter.
And if one does not agree with someone's opinion, then simply state: I disagree. No need for insults.
Keep your unnecessary rude comments to yourself or face probation.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jun 13, 2022 at 08:33 AM.
Vinnie
I would try the easiest things first. Jumper the clutch lock out switch under the dash. A short piece of wire with alligator clips on each end, simply attach to the safety switch on the clutch pedal under the dash. If the stater engages, you need a new switch or it’s out of adjustment.
Lots of good advice offered in this thread. My money would be on a bad ground. If your 75 is similar to a 69, the ground cable is attached to the frame just below the battery box. With a ratchet and 1/2 inch socket you could remove the bolt and disconnect the cable. Then sand the connection point with some 80 grit paper to clean it up. Reattach the cable and give it a try.
when you turn on the key you see a couple of dash lights. when you turn to crank some lights go off. if these lights do not go off it is ignition switch or switch adjustment. if light goes off but no clicks at all it is clutch interlock or problem with the wire between ign switch and starter S terminal. which includes clutch switch. the body ground under batt box headsup mentioned will give many diff symptoms as it will let some electricity through but not enough to fire the starter. so if you get it up in the air remove and clean that contact. if whole wire is split open and green replace it. you don't need the 90 dollar one with the big grommet. a 12 buck one will do. unless you drive through deep puddles...
A Fusible Link melts as a way of protecting a circuit. A direct short such as the Fusible Link to ground will melt the link.
Just as a misplaced wrench or accidently touching a screwdriver from the starter case (GRD) to one of the solenoid studs (POS) could blow the link.
This is why its a good policy to remove the NEG Batt before working on a starter.
And if one does not agree with someone's opinion, then simply state: I disagree. No need for insults.
Keep your unnecessary rude comments to yourself or face probation.
No. Your dead wrong. I can put a screwdriver or wrench straight on the battery terminal of the solenoid straight to ground. And boy will it spark! And anyone with any reflexes would jump back straight away. But in no way is it possible to fry any Fusible links heading off to the rest of the car.
Just not possible.
P.M. sent.
Edit: Not possible to send a PM to Mr. Heads UP
go to the alternator and short to ground. fusible link no mas. but you can arc weld with the positive post at the starter. HeadsUP is rarely wrong. and when he is it is from an overabundance of caution trying to stop novices from burning their cars up. or cranking it off the jacks onto their chests. so let's not call him an idiot for trying to prevent newbie catastrophes. and both of you have called me an idiot a few times. so you two should get along just fine.
Maybe you're right, maybe I'm wrong.
Ok, lets play a game called What If.
There are two Fusible Links, correct?
Both go to the starter solenoid, correct?
Both are Positive from the Positive side of the battery, correct?
What if someone were to remove the links briefly, and touch the frame with the end of the link?
Direct ground & sparks, correct?
What if someone were to accidently touch a screwdriver from a NEG ground source (starter casing or such) to the solenoid POS studs?
Why wouldn't the fusible link melt? Its receiving a indirect short.
Maybe you're right, maybe I'm wrong.
Ok, lets play a game called What If.
What if someone were to accidently touch a screwdriver from a NEG ground source (starter casing or such) to the solenoid POS studs?
Why wouldn't the fusible link melt? Its receiving a indirect short.
Because the screw driver would receive the amp draw not the fuseable link , you would have a better chance of the screwdriver melting in half before the fuseable link would blow
Getting back to the original question.from Vinnie. No, if you are not familiar with the solenoid and which studs are POS, do not go in there blindly with a screwdriver trying to make something happen.
yes, the fusible gets it's power from the solenoid terminal and feeds the horn relay and-i think-the alternator. but stopping the newbies from learning to weld with their starter solenoids is never a bad thing...
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.