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Heater core by-pass

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Old Jun 27, 2022 | 05:49 PM
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Default Heater core by-pass

Looking for opinions on what to do with hose routing. Loop the hose from the water pump to the intake, or just plug off both ports, If looping is the best option, is there a molded hose for this? It's currently 850 degrees out so I don't need the heater.

TIA

EDIT: Sorry, 1968 327/300.

Last edited by jodfit; Jun 27, 2022 at 06:14 PM.
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Old Jun 27, 2022 | 05:54 PM
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Just block off the ports. Small block Chevy engines have a coolant bypass built in......its the third hole on the passenger side of the water pump pad. Looping a hose does nothing more.
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Old Jun 27, 2022 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by CorvettePassion
Just block off the ports. Small block Chevy engines have a coolant bypass built in......its the third hole on the passenger side of the water pump pad. Looping a hose does nothing more.
Cool! (No pun intended) That makes things easy.
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Old Jun 27, 2022 | 06:28 PM
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There will be a day where you don't need Defrost, but you will need Defog. if its rainy.
Omitting the core all together by plugging ports is not a safe option depending on what climate you live in.

NAPA sells a manual shut-off valve in your choice of 5/8" or 3/4" for <$30.
You splice it in one of the heater hoses near the original vacuum shut-off valve.
Close it in the Spring. Open it in Autumn. Takes 30 seconds to operate it.
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Old Jun 27, 2022 | 08:29 PM
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Defog = rag picked up and wiped across inside of glass. In my case....never happened yet. Unsafe is a strong word.
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Old Jun 27, 2022 | 09:16 PM
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I recently blocked off the heater hose inlet and outlet by clamping a brass barb on short sections of heater hoses on both the intake manifold and water pump. The brass barbs have mip threads and I installed brass fip threaded caps on each barb fitting.
One barb was 5/8 inch with 3/4 inch threads. The other was a 3/4 inch barb with 3/4 inch threads. The caps were both 3/4 inch threads.
I did it this way as I did not want to risk damaging the threads on the intake and water pump, which have been installed for some time by removing the original fittings to install threaded plugs. I was especially concerned about removing the threaded fitting on the aluminum intake. By using the barb fittings, the process is easily reversible without causing any damage.

Last edited by mark79,80; Jun 27, 2022 at 09:32 PM.
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Old Jun 27, 2022 | 10:14 PM
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I haven't had a heater core hooked up for years. I find the defroster works just fine just blowing air up.
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Old Jun 27, 2022 | 11:37 PM
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Old Jun 29, 2022 | 05:37 AM
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I chose to loop mine at the firewall. I found some nice blackened pipe fittings (think black chrome) at Home Depot, disconnected the hoses at the firewall and then tucked the end down into the front fender area.

It was plugged earlier in the car’s life and I found the two hoses got super hot from lack of water flowing through them.
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Old Jun 29, 2022 | 06:51 AM
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1968 has a fill on the expansion tank, no fill on the radiator. You will have to loop it after the expansion tank back to the manifold. The radiator is also lower than the high point on the manifold so you will have a lot of air in your system if you just buy a new radiator with a fill cap
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Old Jun 29, 2022 | 09:06 AM
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Not sure if something like this might work for you. Blade screwdriver to open / close a ball check valve. Installed this shut off on a '66 327 to cut down on the cabin heat. Works great, inexpensive, easy to install. Bought the parts from McMaster-Carr about 12-years ago.




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