Trying to start my 69 L46 4sp...where to start...full frame off rebuild and time to start it. Everything back together ready to start and all I get is the sound that reminds me of a vox tube amp turning on tuuump...or something like that. No click, no starter engagement only tuuump. I have been searching through wiring diagrams which I am not good at understanding to see how to check. Here is what I have done and need some input if anyone has had this before, pics below:

• Full frame off
• Original engine was rebuilt
• Wiring harness was in great shape, I removed all the old electrical tape and re-wrapper it. I had to replace some end connectors
• I bought a tilt/tele steering column and rebuilt it
• New ignition switch and neutral safety switch
• I cleaned the fuse box and installed new fuses
• Car has AC

I had everything back together and tried to start the car and tuuump, so I removed the drivers seat and column to trace some wires. Reading the wiring diagrams I thought the purple wire at the ignition switch should have power, again I am not great at understanding these things. So I reassembled it and left the column hanging so I could test the ignition switch while I was trying to start it. Didn't start but once I giggled the column it turned over. Good news so I put the column in and off we go. I then had troubles getting the car to fire which is a separate mess but after some time trying the get the timing sorted out the car stopped turning over. So next step I didn't talk to the car for a few days nor open the garage...take that you...

Ok so today:

• Removed the column again
• Battery was at 12.67V
• I had power to the starter
• All grounds were sanded and tightened again (battery, starter and the one by the #1 body mount)
• I jumped the starter solenoid main power to the S terminal and starter fired
• I have power at both the red wires in the ignition switch wires
• I have jumped the neutral safety for testing
• I put my old straight column ignition switch in, bypassed the neutral safety switch and with a screw driver in the ignition switch the car turned over
• Put the new tilt ignition switch in and the car turned over

Questions:

• Testing power at the neutral safety wires the red harness off the purple wires and I don't get power...when should I have power at these?
• I thought the purple wires carried power to the ignition switch, but red does why? Or red has power from the starter solenoid and purple carries power back to the S solenoid when the key is in the start position?
• And the big question - car turns over without the column in and why is it not consistent when the column is tightened up...am I missing something?
• Has anyone had this before...is something lose or get out of shape when the column is back in?

I am just curious with everything apart it turns over but when Its goes back together I don't get the same result. Looking forward to driving around the block before August.















Thanks,
Mike

 

Purple wire is wire going to the s terminal on the solenoid. When switch is turned to start Purple wire goes hot. Power goes from switch to neutral switch. Through neutral switch in neutral. and continues on to the stater solenoid.
There is a plastic connector on the firewall just to the passenger side of the wiper motor that connects purple wire from indash wiring to engine side wiring. I had that connector come apart once. ruined my day. car wouldn't start.
If issue is only when column is bolted tight. clearly a wire is getting disconnected when getting pulled on. Sometimes wires break inside the insulation and the break can not be seen.

 

Hi 4-vettes,

Well after some more testing and plying around the car turns over when I use a rod to manually move the ignition switch into the start position (steering column is out of the car). I even tried this using the old ignition switch from my straight column. So the wiring is good, power is there. Googling I found a Jim Shea comment about synchronizing your steering column to the ignition switch. Originally when I mounted the ignition switch to the column I thought I set the ignition switch detents properly to the key position but I must not have and blamed the wiring.

So I managed to start the car yesterday manually moving the ignition switch to start and got enough run time to break the hydraulic cam in (crossing my fingers). Now I can put the column back in, fix a few of the issues we had during break in and drive around the block.

Thanks,
Mike