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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
The shims in the car should be multiple sizes. The distance between the walls of the pocket arent going to change.......math.....
I guess you could take pictures of them to verify there are different sizes
Who replaced the trailing arms? Who ever did it should have checked the toe when installing the shims. A good mechanic would have recorded the alignment during the install.
It really is easy to check the rear toe. All you need is some string. Just run a string from the front wheel to behind the rear wheel. Have it mid wheel, just touching both wheels. You will be able to see the toe in for both the front and the rear wheel. Both should be toed in just a bit. Easy Peasy.
Edit:
Good reading. https://www.duntovmotors.com/tech-rear-leaf-springs.php
The shims in the car should be multiple sizes. The distance between the walls of the pocket arent going to change.......math.....
I guess you could take pictures of them to verify there are different sizes
this is true.. but my alignment guy wanted smaller shims to dial in.. as the sizes in place would not allow the correct adjustment. there were some big shims from factory on each size.
It looks like you have a lot of positive camber. You can fix that yourself with your adjustable strut rods (you need to lengthen yours). If you garage is level, all you need is a level. Camber should be zero, or very slightly negative (bottom further out than the top). @cagotzmann's link, above, has numbers to get you started, and a way to measure. Until your camber is within spec, there's no point adjusting your toe-in.
Otherwise, I'd say your suspension looks just like mine.
Camber is also easy to check. Just get a small level. The original spec calls for a bit of positive camber, but most C3 experts call for a bit of negative. The exact fraction is different depending who you ask, but for around town driving it really doesn't make much difference. C3's are not rocket science.
So, I am always one looking for the smoothest streets to drive on and when they are not so good, I am picking where the potholes are not and trying to avoid them. Even when I go over a not-so-even manhole cover, the rear of the car jumps/moves to one side. Enough so that it bothers me. Any relief from this reaction possible? Running 235R15 BFGs with 32 psi, bilstein HDs, adjustable strut rods and newer trailing arms. Would reattaching the anti-sway bar help me? Thanks
These cars rode horrible when they were brand new… The price you pay for a C3
These cars rode horrible when they were brand new… The price you pay for a C3
The leafspring cars rode stiffer, exp when they got rusty. Gymkana cars rode real stiff though. But the later fiberglass sprung cars with OEM shocks rode pretty nice. The Koni shock cars rode nice too.
The leafspring cars rode stiffer, exp when they got rusty. Gymkana cars rode real stiff though. But the later fiberglass sprung cars with OEM shocks rode pretty nice. The Koni shock cars rode nice too.
What # spring did the OP put in yer car?
Wish I knew, I replaced the one that was in composite spring that was in here, something like 315 or 330. I will look for a receipt but doubt that I still have it. The spring bushings I replaced about 8 years ago. I have worked on the camber several times and think really it's pretty close, can't remember of it's plus or minus but it's pretty close.
Wish I knew, I replaced the one that was in composite spring that was in here, something like 315 or 330. I will look for a receipt but doubt that I still have it. The spring bushings I replaced about 8 years ago. I have worked on the camber several times and think really it's pretty close, can't remember of it's plus or minus but it's pretty close.
The spring bushings I replaced about 8 years ago
those are toast..and flat.. it could not hurt at all to replace to aid in cushioning...
I have Gymkhana clone set up with even tighter shocks.. not rough at all... but have radial tires and run 2 PSI above placard on door.. 24/26
So, I am always one looking for the smoothest streets to drive on and when they are not so good, I am picking where the potholes are not and trying to avoid them. Even when I go over a not-so-even manhole cover, the rear of the car jumps/moves to one side. Enough so that it bothers me. Any relief from this reaction possible? Running 235R15 BFGs with 32 psi, bilstein HDs, adjustable strut rods and newer trailing arms. Would reattaching the anti-sway bar help me? Thanks
I would look at the bearings in the ta’s. The video posted prior is a good place to start to check in them.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I remember my first set of radials...69 GTO I had in the early 80s. I went from the original suspension and 14 inch wheels to all new springs and polyurethane bushings, 15 inch wheels and 60 series tires....felt like a sports car and very fast....4 wheel manual drum brakes, stopping not so much.
As for the issue at hand. My vette did the exact same thing until I aligned the rear. Im sure that will resolve the jumping. Bumpy rattling ride not so much, but a good single fiberglass rear spring will smooth it out. My car had the Ecklers Grand Touring setup in it and it was soo smooth and nice, I couldnt understand what everyone was talking about the harsh corvette rid. Guess I dodged that bullet having bought my car used and slightly modified
Here is a picture of the driver's side trailing arm bushing, not such a good picture. The car is jacked up, tire/wheel removed, spring unattached on this side, and the trailing arm is jacked to simulate weight-on-wheels (level). The disproportionate wear on the tires, both sides, is on the outsides. Some of that could have been from improper camber too. Also, I have ordered new spring rubber bushings and shim set for alignment porpoises.
sounds like rear bushings. edit i see you replaced.. did you use poly or rubber? not a bad inspection point again
i would also try lower air pressure..i run 24f-26r https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nd-advice.html
Driver's side alignment check: string method showed .25 gap; moved some shims around, rechecked, much better. Passenger side Friday. Thanks post followers and CorvetteHop....
