So, I am always one looking for the smoothest streets to drive on and when they are not so good, I am picking where the potholes are not and trying to avoid them. Even when I go over a not-so-even manhole cover, the rear of the car jumps/moves to one side. Enough so that it bothers me. Any relief from this reaction possible? Running 235R15 BFGs with 32 psi, bilstein HDs, adjustable strut rods and newer trailing arms. Would reattaching the anti-sway bar help me? Thanks

 

I’m no expert except for driving cars 52+ years but I’d say your rear shocks are a little too stiff. You might want to check your alignment too and verify it’s set up correctly.

 

sounds like rear bushings. edit i see you replaced.. did you use poly or rubber? not a bad inspection point again
i would also try lower air pressure..i run 24f-26r
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nd-advice.html

 

I used rubber bushings. Forgot to mention the spring is a composite 330 lb. Thanks for all the answers.

 

The swaybar will increase the ride harshness when hitting a single-wheel pothole, (not quite as bad when hitting a raised bump), it has the effect of a stiffer spring and tries to twist the car to match the net angle of the two wheels rather than letting the one drop into the how and keeping the other on the ground.
Check to see if the bump-stops are leaving marks on the pads, if they aren't you could look a a lighter shock but those are pretty much the standard solution for a mono spring
M

 

I agree TA bushes or bearings,
rear steer

struts

 

Really stiff spring,,,,, really rough ride. Are you tracking your car?

 

youre welcome

 

YOur rear alignment is off. Are you getting any wear on your rear tires or a fine black dust behind your tires. Mine was out so far everytime I hit a pot hole or a good bump it felt like it was jumping a foot to the side in the rear. What happens is the tire unloads that bounces over the bump and when that tire unweights the other tire is pushing in the opposite direction and the car shoots to the side.

Look at you tube for rear tire alignment with string and jack stands. its real easy and you can check and see if your tires are pointing in too ,much. Its only supposed to be toed in a 1/16 or an 1/8th on each side.

basically you run a string from the rear of your car and have it just touch the tire or rim so you have a straight line that projects out in front of your car. THen you measure the front and rear of your tires to see what the difference is. You adjust that out with the shims but you need a reference point to tell if the rear end is centered

the straight lines out the front of your car are used to measure in to your frame at the front of the car so you can make sure that each side is toed in the same and the rear is pointing to the canter of the car and not off to one side or the other which only makes the jump to the side worse

 

No, not tracking

 

I have been wanting to try and check the rear alignment and have watched a very good utube on this. Looks like it's time, and also time to check the tires for uneven wear. Thanks.

 

You have some great suggestions already. Can you post a photo of your rear suspension?

If only one wheel is dropping, and then pushing back up, you are getting camber and toe-in change on that wheel, which sends in one direction or the other. Is it always one direction with a bump on one side, and the other direction in the other?

As suggested, get your alignment squared away. If you have a really jacked up rear end (I needed 7" bolts with my low-arch 360 lb spring, but some springs are almost unusable with anything less than 10" bolts, which of course are unsafe as you can then cut the tire on aggressive turns), the camber and toe-in change is enhanced.

For pre-80 cars, there is a bracket that lowers the inboard strut rod mounting point. That made a huge difference when I was tracking a Corvair (which has basically the same rear suspension), and it may help with rear bump steer. VanSteel sells it, along wiith low-arch springs, if that is your problem. Call an ask what it really does, don't take my word for it.

https://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?f...=32022&ID=3861

 

@cagotzmann has posted his directions previously. Worth a read.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nt-method.html

 

I'll have to do some digging for any photos, am in between old and new computers....

 

I do have some unusual wear on the back tires, so I am going to take it to get aligned, soon as I find out if I need to furnish more shims or whether the shop has some. With them seeing the tire wear, it might help them know what to look for or know exactly what to look at. Thanks for everyone's help.

 

When the alignment shop gets it up in the air, take (and then post) some photos!

Hopefully they find something obvious. Please update us with the resolution!

 

Is it your shocks seem stiffer than you expected? If so, you may want dial back to a softer shock like a Koni adjustable that have been designed for Corvettes. You can adjust settings.
https://www.ecklerscorvette.com/1963...-122788-1.html

Or maybe an AC Delco shock. Ask other owners with similar mods (spring) ...see what they say about the Koni's

 

I’m pretty sure he replaced these.

 

The shop wont need shims for the rear. The rear trailing arms have a stack of shims to take up space on the inner and outer sides of the arm. They will just have to move them from one side to the other for the toe alignment. The camber is adjusted on a stock rear control arm with an ofset cam that is rotated. They arent the best and most folks switch to an adjustable rod with hiem ends or rose joints as the Euros call them

 

i would buy the shims.. 99% chance they do NOT..
yes in theory you should have all the shims needed, but the chances of dialing in without a choice of thinner shims to tweak it in.
If you find a decent shop, i would either get a plan for a few alignments (usually one year) or first do an inspection. If anything worn, you are doing this twice/ 3x.
all parts need an inspection , even parts replaced..
if you can get close ups of all pics that would be cool..