DKM,
Your black L71 is really amazing. I read the Motortrend article on the car.
Very interesting story. Glad you got it.

 

I don’t “wash“ my Vettes anymore unless for some reason they have gotten really dirty. And for the most part this has never happened. I use Meguiar's® Ultimate Waterless Wash & Wax, Basically I use a microfiber cloth, spray one section and wipe it clean. I try not to use a dirty cloth, so I might need a few of them to get the car clean cleaned.

https://www.meguiars.com/search?search_api_fulltext=automotive%20 products%20meguiars%20ultimate%20waterle ss%20wash%20wax%20g3626%2026%20oz%20spra y

This avoids drenching the car, the paint, the interior and the electronics and it’s really not necessary for some road grime that the car might get from a local run.

I think it works well. To add about winterizing as someone mentioned watch the critters. Either get a cat or I try everything including mothballs, deodorant soap electronic pest repellant and some cursing. Don’t forget a trickle charger and I do cover my car. Although I love to look at them for some reason dirt accumulates in my garage.

Enjoy and congrats!!! Ike

 

been using Collnite wax for over 25 years on lacquer paint .. use #839 cleaner if it needs it . If not go straight to #845 . Make sure you use a isolating Orbit buffer

 

I let them …

 

Washing cars is a science and an art, and not as easy as many people think. Good advise on this thread, but I don't use towels to dry my cars after washing. I use a leaf blower to blow dry the car (in a dust-free environment), and never wash/claybar/polish/wax in direct sunlight.

I have a large variety of car care/paint care products that I use, depending on the car, and condition of the paint. There is no magic bullet that works for every scenario. I take this kind of stuff quite seriously.

Towels generally don't touch my car, as that is one of the reasons why you see all those nice little swirl marks that stick out like a sore thumb on dark colors in broad daylight. On old cars like this with original paint, you need to do your homework - Don't take one person's word for it. Carefully read all the threads on the topic from multiple reputable sources. Lots of youtube videos out there too on how to care for these paint jobs.

 

All good stuff. Congrats on the new acquisition, I hope your careful shopping pays off and is without disappointment.

I typically wash a classic car the day I get it and seldom thereafter, maybe every one or two years, and I put about 2K miles on per year. I use only Meguires car wash and only enough water to get the stuff off and never soak the tops, windows, cowl area etc. blow it dry with compressed air or a leaf blower. Follow up with microfiber cloths only.

* Meguires quick detailer trigger spray for touch ups after drives to get the bugs off.
* CA car duster after every drive and keep it covered indoors.
* Water, especially hard water is your car’s enemy.
* Avoid polish/cleaner waxes.
* Good old fashioned Turtlewax chrome cleaner for the bumpers
* Never-dull wadding for cleaning the stainless trim around the t-tops.

Get a barn cat for your storage garage 😎
The problem with winter driving the car between snowfalls and subsequent road salting is that he salt residue remains on the roads and is kicked up as a dusty powder that deposits itself on the nooks and crannies of the under carriage. Humidity and water washings then reactivate that salt dust and it migrates even deeper into those crevasses. RUST NEVER SLEEPS.

GOOD LUCK

 

Thanks, everyone. There are some very inspiring photos here, as well as good, practical advice.

The Florida hurricane and the storms that spun off it caused some delays in car shipping, so it’s shipping out to me next week. I have some shopping to do in the meantime.

This photo was taken earlier this year. I want to keep that paint looking great!

 

thanks for posting.. did some research on SINGLE STAGE ONLY car care.. and the #7 you mentioned.. i have corrected mine in the past with compound etc. scratch removers..and thought pretty good..
Although i am not doing the week long or even 24 hours long.. i basically tried it for 5 minutes and really was impressed.. NOTE this stuff will not last but i will try to put some wax over top as recommended to protect.. I have a black targa painted on my roof (not stripe on hood) and if you have a dark car.. it makes a difference..
I will say though that you are removing paint.. but not much...
i will post a few pics when done but lookin good..


NO glaze on the decal..

 

I think its worth a try for those sprorting lacquer mono coat paint. Not sure how long it will last but it is noticeable..would love to see a few try it even a small spot..
turned a 10 footer into 9? And darker deeper..
after wax shown…didn’t really change after glaze.
post some more pics of your car when you get it op..

 

Sorry to hear about your loss.

My grandfather worked at the Kenosha AMC factory (which I presume was Nash beforehand). My dad worked a summer or two in college there as well. My first car (age 16) was a used ‘76 AMC Hornet. I used to say that my grandpa built it (he actually might’ve).

The car transporter is scheduled to pick up my car tomorrow. The carrier told me they are sending 2 drivers, so the 2k mile cross-country trip will take less than a week. Can’t wait!

 

Update. I greatly appreciate everyone’s advice. After reading the links and about the products, the Amazon delivery driver became a regular thing, with the multiple packs of microfiber cloths (600s for the body, plus cloths for glass, interior, and wheels/tires) and cleaning supplies arriving. It was too cold and wet for a drive yesterday, so I did my first hand wash with the waterless products, a mix of Maguiars and Griot’s. I’m going to wait to do the Maguiars #7 for when it’s time to put the car away for the winter.

I was pleased to see there wasn’t much oxidation at all.

The right/passenger side is the worse for wear and age than the left side, from the rear bumper to the upper door to pitting on the handle to the front. To freshen up the chrome, I heard to use 00 (or perhaps even 000) steel wool. Have any of you done that? What is the preferred technique? As you can see from the photos, the rear chrome isn’t bad, but you do see it if you step up right next to it.

When I get my new license plate, I may freshen up the rear plate surround holder. Is that stainless steel or chrome? Any recommendations?

I just used the car cleaner on the chrome. Is there a specific chrome maintenance product recommended?

The waterless hand wash process was actually fun, because of the car’s curves, and because the car is so low I can easily clean its top. I wouldn’t enjoy doing that to my husband’s huge diesel pickup truck…

I took it for a drive today, and it’s just a thrill to be looking out across the big blue hood. It’s such a joy!

Thanks, everyone!



Results of first wash

All clean now!

Fiberglass under original paint

Roughest spot, on top side of passenger side door.

 

I found that steel wool even fine 0000 will permanently scratch your chrome. Try a polishing wax.

 

Thanks!

 

I agree if the chrome is generally in good condition it's better to steer clear of steel wool and stick with one of the metal polishes (I like Blue Magic).
However if there's any noticeable pitting/oxidation, steel wool will remove it much better and any fine scratches left behind can be reduced with metal polish.

 

I hardly ever wash any of my classic cars !! I just dust and quick detail that’s it

 

What's better is Eagle One Never-Dull wadding polish.
It's safe on all metals, won't scratch and it really cleans up chrome nice...

 

Thanks, everyone. This is all helpful, and I will check this out.

 

Meguiars car wash soap, sponge water and bucket
You dont need all that fancy garabge to wash a car.
Drive it after you dry it to get all the crevices dry.
I used a leaf blower...and got lazy. Yr later guess what appeared...

Tried the ceramics...waste of money. Keep it simple
Watched a YT vid of some barn find, super low mi collector type car.
They had their little gloves on and spray foam...about crapped when they took a bath towel and wiped it up.
Sheesh...its not rocket science just wash the car good excuse to drive it.

used the same $40 indoor cover I got off ebay yrs ago no complaints.

 

The shiny windshield pillars and T-top stuff is stainless as well as the door handles, the side skirts were generally clear anodized. The bumpers were chrome when Vettes had metal bumpers. The fiberglass body in those years was polyester and it warps over time, it's a nice warp if it's still there. The paint at the time was lacquer, very difficult to maintain and impossible to re-spray today unless you're in Texas or Russia. That car looks pretty darn nice.

 

I wanted to post some updates.

First, the car is awesome!

My car’s weatherstripping is original, so my car definitely isn’t waterproof. I’ve followed the advice here, and been using various waterless wash products. During the winter months, I kept it under an indoor car cover.

Now that it’s spring and I’m driving it around, and getting involved with local car events, I decided to do an overnight soak in Meguiar’s #7. I was very pleased with the results. The car is definitely shinier and more mirror-like.

I know that it’s a temporary shine, but as it’s a single stage paint, I want to do a few more soaks in the next few months, and then wax it in the fall. I think getting the #7 oils will help preserve what I have.

I joined NCRS and have been actively participating in our local chapter events (which is a lot of fun). It’s been looked over by a lot of knowledgeable people, and they’ve all agreed that my car has its factory original paint (with some older touch ups in spots). I have zero intention of repainting my car, so I want to preserve this paint as best as I can, while still enjoying my drives.

I was able to track down a long-term (around 30 years) owner, who told me that he always garaged the car.

What wax do you recommend?

Also, I have not touched my car with clay bars or with any type of machine polisher. There seems to be a split of opinion on whether they are safe or not. Given that the paint is factory, and I don’t intend to get my car judged, I don’t mind that it has blemishes and chips, and I don’t intend to do anything more aggressive on the paint unless it’s safe.

I used the Flitz chrome polish as well. I’m reluctant to use anything stronger on the chrome or stainless.

Any advice or suggestions?


After rubbing off #7 that soaked in for 24 hours