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Correct my knowledge, but the 68 did not come with side pipes correct?
It appears that DUB modified my rear filler panel and backend. Only reasoning I could think would be addition of side pipes, but 68’s did not have them. I had just had new exhaust installed before taking it to him so I’m very confused.
How hard is it to modify what is pictured here to install the exhaust as original setup?
Side exhaust was only available for 1969 C3s ( from the factory). I believe even in 69 they started as a factory option in Dec of 68 at the earliest. Any other C3 was an add-on.
You need more than just the valence panel. The lower 1/4 panels need the other “half” of the relief cut. It is not just a matter of cutting away the existing fiberglass as the original construction has a lip that extends inward and also a reinforcement that you can’t see unless you look from the underside.
Correct my knowledge, but the 68 did not come with side pipes correct?
It appears that DUB modified my rear filler panel and backend. Only reasoning I could think would be addition of side pipes, but 68’s did not have them. I had just had new exhaust installed before taking it to him so I’m very confused.
How hard is it to modify what is pictured here to install the exhaust as original setup?
Originally Posted by 69L88
You need more than just the valence panel. The lower 1/4 panels need the other “half” of the relief cut. It is not just a matter of cutting away the existing fiberglass as the original construction has a lip that extends inward and also a reinforcement that you can’t see unless you look from the underside.
Exactly.
Not clear why this was done, wanted to leave the car appearing as original as possible.
But that being said, am I better off ($$) to have side pipes put on now, considering what has been done, or try to modify what I have to accommodate rear exhaust?
All depends on what your abilities are. I went the other way on my 69. I made molds from another car and hand-fabbed the quarter sections to mimic the original dimensions, then bought a stock valence for a sidepipe car. Not hard to do, but requires a number of steps and for many, time is money.
In your case, since the 68 has the backup lights in the valence, you’d have to either: a) source a stock 68 valence, b) source a stock 69 valence and cut the holes for the lights or c) modify the valence you have for the cutouts. In any case, you’ll have to paint. If you have all the equipment to paint with, then you’ll need only to source the materials. If you don’t, well…..
On the other hand, if you go the side pipes route, you’ll need to buy all the requisite pipes and, if you go stock, the covers. You can buy reproduction original cover kits for $2700 but I believe these don’t include the original heat shielding. The pipes themselves sell for about $700.
If going the fiberglass route doing the work yourself, it’s clear this is the far cheaper direction. If, however, you need to farm it out, then you need to negotiate a reasonable cost. I would think you could get it all done for, say, $1500, but you need to know your provider well so as to avoid getting pulled down a rabbit hole.
ONE FINAL CONSIDERATION - Side exhaust is much louder than rear exit. Think it through carefully before you jump into that lake.
All depends on what your abilities are. I went the other way on my 69. I made molds from another car and hand-fabbed the quarter sections to mimic the original dimensions, then bought a stock valence for a sidepipe car. Not hard to do, but requires a number of steps and for many, time is money.
In your case, since the 68 has the backup lights in the valence, you’d have to either: a) source a stock 68 valence, b) source a stock 69 valence and cut the holes for the lights or c) modify the valence you have for the cutouts. In any case, you’ll have to paint. If you have all the equipment to paint with, then you’ll need only to source the materials. If you don’t, well…..
On the other hand, if you go the side pipes route, you’ll need to buy all the requisite pipes and, if you go stock, the covers. You can buy reproduction original cover kits for $2700 but I believe these don’t include the original heat shielding. The pipes themselves sell for about $700.
If going the fiberglass route doing the work yourself, it’s clear this is the far cheaper direction. If, however, you need to farm it out, then you need to negotiate a reasonable cost. I would think you could get it all done for, say, $1500, but you need to know your provider well so as to avoid getting pulled down a rabbit hole.
ONE FINAL CONSIDERATION - Side exhaust is much louder than rear exit. Think it through carefully before you jump into that lake.
I agree with the above however the $2700 reproduction (correct) covers do come with the heat sheilding at that price. It is all put together when shipped.
All depends on what your abilities are. I went the other way on my 69. I made molds from another car and hand-fabbed the quarter sections to mimic the original dimensions, then bought a stock valence for a sidepipe car. Not hard to do, but requires a number of steps and for many, time is money.
In your case, since the 68 has the backup lights in the valence, you’d have to either: a) source a stock 68 valence, b) source a stock 69 valence and cut the holes for the lights or c) modify the valence you have for the cutouts. In any case, you’ll have to paint. If you have all the equipment to paint with, then you’ll need only to source the materials. If you don’t, well…..
On the other hand, if you go the side pipes route, you’ll need to buy all the requisite pipes and, if you go stock, the covers. You can buy reproduction original cover kits for $2700 but I believe these don’t include the original heat shielding. The pipes themselves sell for about $700.
If going the fiberglass route doing the work yourself, it’s clear this is the far cheaper direction. If, however, you need to farm it out, then you need to negotiate a reasonable cost. I would think you could get it all done for, say, $1500, but you need to know your provider well so as to avoid getting pulled down a rabbit hole.
ONE FINAL CONSIDERATION - Side exhaust is much louder than rear exit. Think it through carefully before you jump into that lake.
My abilities are very little, why I was
paying Dub to paint and do bodywork. Lol
Can I down turn the ends of the current exhaust set up and still install the rear filler panel as it is?
You could rotate the mufflers and bring the tailpipes level with the bottom of the valence, then attach a 30 degree turndown. That will require some change to the rear most hangar arrangement but that should be straightforward.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I have a 68 with side pipes and is a vert. Not loud at all. Can have a conversation at any speed. When you put the top up is makes it louder but that is really rare.
Definitely go with the side pipes, they will bolt right on and they look very nice
I have a 68 with side pipes and is a vert. Not loud at all. Can have a conversation at any speed. When you put the top up is makes it louder but that is really rare.
Definitely go with the side pipes, they will bolt right on and they look very nice
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Originally Posted by c1nicole
Could you share which side pipes you purchased?
they are the 69 factory pipes. Like everything I have I bought a bunch of pieces of covers that werent worth much and I pieced them all together to make a good set. The pipes are sweet thunder 2.5 pipes...very nice. Eventually Im going with a 67 styly pipe but with the 68 ends in 2.5 inch...I would go 3 if they fit.
If you have the cash get the set from Paragon, they are the ones that produce them that everyone else re-labels
they are the 69 factory pipes. Like everything I have I bought a bunch of pieces of covers that werent worth much and I pieced them all together to make a good set. The pipes are sweet thunder 2.5 pipes...very nice. Eventually Im going with a 67 styly pipe but with the 68 ends in 2.5 inch...I would go 3 if they fit.
Side-pipes are a cool thing to have on any old Corvette. My cousin had a 1967 SB convertible with the factory side-pipes and it was virtually impossible to have a conversation while running around town or at highway speeds. I would imagine that you can deaden the sound a bit but you still have to deal with the other issues of Side-Pipes like really bad burns on inner leg that made contact with the Hooker Side-pipes. The factory style with fiberglass covers would be a much better option over the beautiful Chrome Hooker side-pipes.
I found a company (who is no longer around) who offered side-pipe conversions with the Fiberglass covers for around $2K (UN-Painted) back in the late 1990's. The company (Allen's SS Exhaust) also offered new Chambered Exhaust Systems in either SS or Aluminized Steel. They offered the chambered exhaust in three noise levels so I bought a set for my 1968 C3 427 with it's convertible. Using the Chambered Exhaust the noise is "following you" and not "next to you". My chambered exhaust system sounds like side-pipes but all the noise is out the rear of the car. I actually have 2 sets of these chambered pipes, one on my 1968 C3 and the other on a 1988 C4 and they both have performed perfectly for over 2 decades on each of the Corvettes. The C4 even sounds ferocious with it's little L98 engine making 255 hp. The system makes the car sound like a Corvette should sound (at least in MY Book) and the elimination of the mufflers gets rid of the ugly cans in the rear of the Corvette.
The car above that belongs to Corey 68 is beautiful with the side-pipes on it, I personally like the look of the Hooker chrome side-pipes myself but even the factory system looks nice. If you choose to use a side-pipe setup be sure to get as much sound deadening material in them. Another buddy here in Virginia has a 1967 Coupe with factory side-pipes and he removed all the deadening material but soon started getting hounded by a Local LEO who thought the sound was a bit too much for the street use. In the end he was ticketed for excessive noise three times and finally had to put the sound deadener back into the system.
The chambered system on my C3 will still wake neighbors when I start it early in the day and it regularly sets off vehicle alarm systems. As long as I don't rev it too high it is very easy to get along with neighbors. My system is attached to a 427 that was rebuilt to be a L88 copy and it sounded ferocious with the standard exhaust but the chambered exhaust really improved the sound. With the high compression it makes a spitting sound at idle which seems to attract small Asian cars that think they can play with a BB Corvette. Having a 3.36 rear makes the sound much more tolerable at highway speeds. My cousin's 1967 C2 had a 4.11 rear and I heard buzzing in my ears after a few minute ride, it was just a bit too much for me.
I just wanted to be sure that you are aware that a Chambered System can make the same sounds but just coming out of a better place on the car. Even with my hard top on the Corvette it is still very easy to listen to the radio or carry on a conversation.
Right now I want to do the most
cost efficient thing since I am In a pickle with all
the things needing to be finished on this car that I paid to have done, some things TWICE now.
I know this is a later model, same concept; with downward pipes. This would be the most inexpensive option I am thinking.
Right now I want to do the most
cost efficient thing since I am In a pickle with all
the things needing to be finished on this car that I paid to have done, some things TWICE now.
I know this is a later model, same concept; with downward pipes. This would be the most inexpensive option I am thinking.
There are plenty of inexpensive options for the turndown extensions. Are you able to loosen the muffler clamps and reposition them to see if you can orient the ends to fit an extension? If not, do you have a good muffler shop in town to help?
1968 side pipes?
