Looking for some input on a 68 that I stumbled on. Original owner, matching number 327, 4 speed in great shape that has been tucked away. Whit/Red. I'm currently updating chassis with all new OEM/NOS parts. Car has been repainted, therefore no longer considered a true "survivor". If I repaint, and redo interior, should I keep time period with same paint and interior or if I change to a pearl finish custom white, and make some small interior add ons will it hinder any value? I'm looking to make it a classy, good


Wheel Suggestions? 15"
looking car as a driver, and not a Friday night Main Street show piece, or resto mod. Also looking for some 15" wheel suggestions that are classy. Much appreciate any feedback!

 

Welcome to the forum.

As other members respond to your post, you will get opinions from both extremes - those that lean far to the “keep it original” to “it’s your car, do with it whatever you like and enjoy it”. You know what they say about opinions.

Ultimately, you will need to make the choice and live with it. That said, there is no doubt that the more you deviate from the original, you will generally see a lower resale value. Note that I said “generally”. You could remove the engine and transmission and install an LS and Tremec if that is what you want but if you keep all the original parts well preserved so the car could quickly be restored, you could preserve the resale value. On the other hand, putting $10K into a pearl paint job would result in a stunning car but IMHO, you would get more money in resale if the paint was the original (assuming in good condition).

Not sure what interior mods you are thinking about but if you need to drill holes/cut/otherwise alter original parts, I’d find replacement parts and modify them, keeping your originals well preserved.

FWIW, I painted my 69 in House of Kolor Candy Wild Cherry over a Pavo Purple base coat but have a bone stock interior. Just my choice.

Keep in mind whatever you do, the 68 has a number of 1 year only parts so they are often harder to locate.

Let us know what you decide.

 

Many thanks, and yes I know how opinions go... Ultimately I did not buy the car to flip, and would like to keep it. I love the wht/red combo and would not modify interior with any cuts or drills, only refresh to original look and may bolster seat padding a bit. The matching numbers will stay in tact for sure, but I will be putting the Sniper fuel injection on it. Keeping it old school, yet classy with some updated today's functions so I can drive it daily. Initial thoughts were to keep it factory white and only considering going with a pearl to give it pop. A car is only worth what someone is willing to pay and I see more and more resto mods which in my opinion are nothing more than old kit cars. Something about keeping as much original as possible, besides this find is in great condition and I don't want to stray too far outside boundaries.
I'm having a tough time with wheel/tire selections however.. Thanks again!

 

Welcome! Look forward to seeing the progress.

 

looks like a very nice 68, I would keep it factory original, looks like tobacco interior, it already has 15" wheels
all though the side pipes are 69 option

 

Thanks. Red interior, just a dark image. Owner bought in late 68 and had dealer install the side pipes at time of purchase. Struggling with a nice looking aftermarket wheel to spruce it up.

 

That white 68 corvette will "pop" anywhere you drive it, as is.

I would keep the same color and the same wheels.

 

White/Red is really beautiful and just doesn't seem that common. I would keep it the same.

 

You can't beat those modern pearl whites, they would look amazing and only add value in my opinion since the paint would be perfect. But I'd take the time to add support to those areas known to crack before I spend $ on paint. . Close to original color. Wheels can be removed

 

Your car your money make yourself happy. All of this is personal preference as with wheels as well. Personally I have always thought the old Keystone Klassic wheels are both classy and racey looking at the same time. They would be period correct for a 1968 and they are seldom seen so you will be set apart from the crowd of Cragars and TTS.

Here is a picture of the 57 I owned up until about a year ago with Keystone Klassic 15” wheels that are available new.

 

There are many, many threads on wheels. Just keep in mind that you don’t want to go too crazy with widths and offsets as the C3 isn’t noted for it’s generosity regarding the wheel wells.

This is my 69 in the summer of 73. Just bought the American 200S wheels. 15 x10 rears, 15 x 8 1/2 up x front. Still have them on the car today.

 

Great look. Thanks for the input. I used to love those wheels until I had a friend of mine when I was younger had them on his car. He burned me in many ways, so they unfortunately remind me of that guy! Thanks for the input!

 

They look good. I'm just not sure yet what will work right for the White/Red Combo. I'm leaning towards the factory ralley wheels which are actually underneath the hub caps. Maybe I'll custom powder coat them. Thanks for your input!

 

Leaning in that direction. It's just a class look in my opinion and with fresh paint done right, I think it'll look good

 

the price wont go down with a very good paint job, only up. Its a 327 car not an L88. You cant hurt the value in it. I would clean it up and do what you need but try to keep the interior panel if you can as the aftermarket door pieces dont fit as good as the originals. Dont buy parts that say 68-82 because they arent and almost all wont work on your car. Too bad you cant search numbers like car years on our forum as there is a lot of 68 only threads. You can try maybe googling or a bing search for them and they may give a link to one of out threads.

set your timing for 36 degrees all in buy 3000 rpm...search the forum to learn how to do it...you will appreciate the power increase over the factory emissions timing setting

My quadrajet ran better than my sniper ever did. I would warn you off as its not going to give you any benefits other than heat related engine issues which a good phenolic insulator would help. If you are set on a Sniper system use https://www.efisystempro.com/ and find someone that can actually tune the system and give you a good fuel map.....otherwise low rpm and part throttle driving is a mess if you are looking for any sort of performance. dont use the EFI controlled timing unless you go with Holleys distributor and convert to an electric tach

 

"looking car as a driver, and not a Friday night Main Street show piece,"

Great find! Great advice from members. I generally choose pieces of advice from each post and combine the advice to fit my goal(s).
Now.....have fun and keep the pics coming !

 

There are all different wheel size threads with pics. 15 has limited tire choices drpending on where you live, 17 and 18 are very popular.

15 inch hurricane style wheels and the 2 tone torque thrust 2s as well as cragars. Again you nerd to pay attention to back spacing for interference Issues. 4 inch back space will be close on an 8 inch rim on a 68 with the E brake bosses, 17s dont have an issue but all 8 inch rims and 60 seies tires my touch the front frame at full lock. Mine rubbed but never was an issue. Stock rally wheels barely gave me room on the E brake...1/8 inch or less

 

Many thanks. Also considering Fitech, but want to make sure I can keep original tach. I may just end up keeping quadrajet if nothing really pans out.

 

Toying with a stock rally, but going to 8" instead of 7", just not sure I'll be able to clear e-brake. Likely run BFG 235-60-15 in back with 235-70-15 in front unless a better suggestion comes along.

 

YOu can use the stock distributor with either EFI, It doesnt need to control timing, its just another option. If you want to lock it out so the EFI can control timing you can use use a MSD system or maybe the stock one if you could lock it out the same way, but The Sniper distributor is the easier/better solution. It doesnt need to control timing, its just another option.

YOu want to check that e brake boss or cut it off and reweld it on the top which has been done. YOu also want to check the spring and hanger bolt to make sure it isnt near your tire either. I ran mine like that for 2 years before finding some affordable 17 inch TTs you can also shim out the wheel if its rubbing to gain clearance but you need to make sure you maintain the centric ring and hub are still in contact or the spacer is centric if its really thick