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77 Corvette.
So I ordered new frames for my storage compartment doors. Only took a little over 4 months but I finally got them!
Yes from a major Corvette supplier.
Got started on them tonight, removing the original cracked frames is a bigger pain than I expected. They are retained with some sort of plastic rivet that for all the world seems like it's part of the door. See pic.
So I'm slowly cutting off these pins.
new frames have holes for pins or perhaps screws but holes are defiantly not in the same places as original. See example.
To add to my pain these new frames seem to be just a tad undersized. Which will require much sanding to the doors to get them on without splitting them.
Now for the question.
the new frames did not come with plastic rivets or pins. Nor screws.
What have others used to mount these?
Not certain I can find little black screws anywhere near me. What to order online?
any suggestions appreciated.
I used screws (which didn't come with the frames), since you only see them when the doors are open I didn't try to get black ones. If you're bothered you could try painting the screws. My frames were also a very tight fit and did require taking a bit off the doors.
I don't know when they changed from the fiber-wood doors to the plastic but that would probably coincide with the change from screws to those rivets. The doors were supplied with the carpet and trim on them so it's not called out in the AIM for the screws or anything
For what it's worth, the new carpet was way too thick for it to compress without cracking the frames and since it was cut-pile I actually shaved the edges down so it fit without pressure on the frames
I used a #5 wood screw, 1/2" long as I didn't want to risk splitting the wood. A #6 would fit the hole in the frame better and in your case the plastic of the door will take it. You may need to countersink the door itself a little as the original screws for those frames were flat head with a bit of an undercut so the taper didn't go farther than the thickness of the frame.
Then I used a centering drill to make the pilot holes in my new wood doors,
I share your pain. My 78 doors are fiberglass and frames were glued on and located/retained with some sort of dovetail.
What a pain getting the frames off. Spent hours chipping away on them. More hours cleaning old glue off. The carpet had been replaced at some point so is likely the installer glued the frames on. Maybe the factory used just the dovetails to hold the frames on?
My replacement frames are also too small so will be doing some grinding on the doors when time comes to put them all together. I did find the replacement frames have the correct "step" on the door rears as seen below.
I haven't yet figured out how to attach the door hinges to main frame. They were riveted on with large head steel rivets. Don't know how they did that without cracking the plastic frame. I bought some large head aluminum rivets from McMaster Carr hoping they will be easier to work with. Am a ways away from dealing with all this.
Not certain what you mean about a dovetail. Perhaps 78 doors are different than 77 doors. But I don't see a dovetail in your photos.
EDIT, I do see slots in your frame now that I blew up the photo. Yes your 78 door is different.
here is one of my doors with the old frame removed.
Note the edge or lip on the bottom of the door. The original frames met up with this lip for a flush look.
My original frames were definitely glued as well as the pins. The old glue just flaked away. It had lost it's grip years ago.
Anyway I can't see a practical way to sand down the sides of the doors without losing this lip. With a dremel and a drum sander it could be possible I guess but would be very difficult to keep it even and still not nick that edge.
Dovetail may not have been the right term to use. Slots? I might look into putting a drum sander, say 2" to start with, in my drill press and rig up some sort of spacer to stay off the lip. Maybe look into a router if the right bit can be found. Something to mull over. Thanks for the thread. Something to ponder on for later when it needs addressed. Please let us know what you come up with. Sorry I haven't been much help.
RickM
Stoped at mitre 10 after work. (an Aussie hardware store). Found these.
5 gauge dark bronze wood screws. A tad longer than half inch but the best I could find.
They fit the counter sink holes in the aftermarket frames perfectly. And although not black. Dark enough to not stand out. And as stated above, you don't see them with the doors closed.
.
Sanding down the doors themselves I accomplished with my angle grinder and a sanding disc.
How'd I do?
Back side.
Top side.
Yes, angle grinder with a sanding disk on it.
Yes I have a very steady hand.
They came out really nice. Back in the car now.
Here they are on the kitchen table.
Note the now empty wine glass.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
They have come out really nicely! I've wanted to replace the frames (the entire frame assembly, complete with doors!) ever since we bought the car 32 years ago! The repairs I did in the early years were the best I could manage back then, but I saw enough when removed them from the car to know that it would a pain of a job! Maybe one day......😄
Storage compartment door frames.
