40 years ago I had the car painted at the dealership, but don't know what finish I asked for. I did however (with the help of my wife} strip the paint with chemical stripped purchased at the dealership and hated the process. Keep in mind I didn't have any internet/search engine back then to follow, but did manage to have it accepted by the shop. This time I'm going to diy paint with the help of a friend and go with maybe a 2 or three stage paint and change the colour to a darker blue.

I going to try the razor method, but it's not turning out the way I see on u-tube. I've tried different blades, different handles, and the image below are the best results. The primer colour is tan and the finish colour is navy blue as seen in the first image. I'm having a hard time getting underneath the clear coat, but am in no hurry, as my main goal is not to damage the fiberglass.

My process will be:
remove paint with razor.
orbital sander to primer with 60 grit.
Orbital sander to fiberglass with 120 grit.
Block sand with 220 grit.
Block sand with 400 or 600 grit.

Not sure about the tru-flex bumpers, but maybe just a light sand.

I haven't figured out my budget for all materials, but I'm thinking around $1,500.00 to $2,000.00 Canadian dollars, depending on which finish I go with.

Before: Don't let the photo fool you on the paint as it's not as good as it looks.




I'm starting at the passenger top fender.

 

I razored mine off. Just be patient, use the heat gun and it should come off pretty easy. Once you get the hang of it it's kinda fun.

 

I would skip the razor and use your orbital sander with the 60 grit to remove the paint. Razors can dig in the fiberglass and cause damage. Just my 0.02 cents

 

 

But be careful with that coarse of grit on an orbital. The same reason it works efficiently to remove paint means it will remove fiberglass too, and you will have a real mess trying to get it smooth again.
Watch the colors as you sand, and immediately stop sanding an area when you break thru the paint.
Back in the day, we used 8” orbitals with 36 grit for removing old paint on steel cars, and it really sheared that paint off in a hurry.

 

Maybe a little late now, but are you sure you need to strip it all the way down?

 

Did several cars with a chemical called Capt Lees spray stripper, but I dont believe it's available any more. I never had any negative issues with it.

On my current car I did the razor blade method for most of the car, and I am so sorry i didnt use it years ago on the others. I thought removing paint on a vette with razor blades was insane and would only make more work. Just the opposite, once I got the feel for it the paint flew off the car.

On the rubber bumpers I only used scotch brite pads and lacquer thinner along with lots of elbow grease down to the bare surface. Took forever but did a nice clean job.

Lots of work but worth it. Good luck.

 

John 65 got it right lacquer thinner scotch brite pads ,, use good thick gloves ,, I found if you put a rag in between the scotch pad it will keep the area soaked so its much easier to get off I did my whole car in a weekend just work on a section at a time ,, I might have lost sum brain cells from the fumes ,, and I worked outside

 

I'm not a pro body guy but for 4 hours a day two days a week I help at a local body shop. My doc said I need to lose a few pounds so I thought why not help and get some spending money..
I can't speak to removing paint on a Corvette but 36 grit seems a bit extreme. Easy to burn thru into the fiberglass.
So on the last couple of hot rods I've done I stripped them to the bare metal including my 68 C10 frame off. Skim coated filler on all panels and sanded 99% of it off. Started with 80 grit then 180 grit and then 320 grit on long or short blocks as needed. I did all the block sanding by hand. The body shop owner being the nice guy he is said I don't have the skill for power tools. Then "poly" spray filler and sand most off that off. 180 grit and 320 grit. Then two coats of epoxy primer with a guide coat to get everything really straight. 180 grit first and then 320 grit on a block and then 320 on a DA with soft pad.
After paint the body shop guys wet sanded and buffed all the panels. Again they did it because they didn't want me to sand or buff thru the edges.
Prior to my 68 C10 I've never done any body work.
My 68 C10 had $3500 USD worth of materials and that was 5 years ago. I'm guessing today 50% more material wise. Pic of my 68 C10.

 

Thanks for all the replies.

Billenglish
The garage is presently 40 degrees F, even with the heater on, I don't believe a heat gun would be very effective.
CorvetteMike2004
I find the razor makes much less mess and is faster and more cost effective.
wwiiavfan
After I complete the razor stripping I'm going to try a 120 grit orbital sander.
Richard Daugird
Yup, it is a bit too late, but I always strip the car before any paint job.
John 65
I'm not sure what I'm going to do when it comes to the rubber. Maybe something to think about.
forman
Thanks for the information.
71 Vert LS1
Thanks for a run down on the process. You had a good budget. Mine will be less than half that.

 

Your corvette is looking good! Keep us updated with your progress!

 

Compared to your C3 my C10 had much more surface area to cover materials wise. The body shop charged me $3500 in labor. It was a cash deal so I got a bit of a break price wise.
40 degrees in your shop you must keep moving to stay warm? LOL.
Good luck with your paint project.

 

71 Vert LS1
What you refer to as a "shop", is actually a garage, which is attached to a house. .

 

Looking good Frank! Are you going to paint it yourself if not who will be doing it?

 

The colour didn't turn out right, it's showing more white, but it's actually a tan colour primer.

gdh
A friend will be painting it in my garage.

 

Great progress! I admire your tenacity.

 

Update:

I know it's not a good picture as someone else took a picture of me and the Vette happened to be in it.

I'd estimate that approximately 80 hrs have gone into the prep. Approximately 30 of those hrs. were spent removing trim, adjusting headlights, hood, doors etc, removing spoilers, fiberglass repairs, adjusting new bumpers etc.

Still haven't selected which shade of dark blue metallic colour. I know what I want, but don't know the name or colour code.

 

Coming along great, looking fwd to seeing the finished product. I remember when soda/walnut shell blasting was all the rage in the stripping process.

 

I have a few clients that have that same problem. I've always suggested a sunny Sunday drive around the local dealerships might turn up "that" color. With new cars, the color code is usually on the window sticker.....used cars are a little different...say, you find a 5 year old Ford with the "perfect" blue---write down the VIN, call the parts dept of a Ford dealer, and ask if he will give you the color code. The last 8 digits is usually enough, and it's not illegal or invading anyone's privacy.
There's no comparison between looking at a book of paint chips vs seeing the right color on a car in the sunlight. Good luck with it!