When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Did a quick search and didn't see anything obvious so starting a new thread -
My engine isn't stock - rebuilt to about 370 hp - when I did that about 8 years ago I went with the Patriot "tight tuck" shorty headers - I had to pull the engine again for another issue so am rethinking my exhaust set up - I have had issues with the headers melting plug wires and had to dimple them and wrap them, then put the temp guards on the wires themselves - I am looking to maybe go with long tube headers when I put it all back this time - are teh "tight tuck" headers really needed? would non tight tuck headers help out the spark plug melting issue - I really don't want to go through all that again if I don't have too.....
Looking for input on brands too - not a show car or a race car, just a weekend driver.
You left out the most important information from your post we would need to help.
370hp tells us really nothing.
What year C3, engine type, big block, small block, aftermarket heads and engine mods?
Power steering, ac, suspension mods?
Long tube headers will provide better hp in the upper rpm range, but will cut down some ground clearance under the car.
Primary tube diameter is another consideration and if you have aftermarket heads, do they have raised exhaust ports?
If you have a small block there are tons of manufacturers and header designs, but if you have a big block there is basically Hedman or Hooker.
Supply us with more info, Please!
I put Flowtech 311016FLT long tube headers on my 76. You can use regular plugs and I run Taylor spiral core wires and haven't burnt one yet.The headers fit well and I run stock exhaust gaskets,Fel-Pro, with no leaks.IMHO, shorty plugs, especially Accel, are a compromise at best
You left out the most important information from your post we would need to help.
370hp tells us really nothing.
What year C3, engine type, big block, small block, aftermarket heads and engine mods?
Power steering, ac, suspension mods?
Long tube headers will provide better hp in the upper rpm range, but will cut down some ground clearance under the car.
Primary tube diameter is another consideration and if you have aftermarket heads, do they have raised exhaust ports?
If you have a small block there are tons of manufacturers and header designs, but if you have a big block there is basically Hedman or Hooker.
Supply us with more info, Please!
oops - sorry.
Car is 1977 with a 350 - power steering and factory air conditioning
Engine was rebuilt with flat top pistons, 63cc Patriot Aluminum heads, comp cams 268XE cam about 8 years ago. Factory 4 spd car. Just bought the Holley terminator stealth EFI for it and plan to install this go around as well. In the process of completely redoing suspension now and looks like i will be shipping all my control arms/trailing arms to Vansteel to rebuild, and thinking I will also go ahead and order their "semi coil" suspension kit with the adjustable shocks so I can adjust the stance.
Were your headers ceramic coated? If not....make sure your next set are......
If they were ceramic coated....then your timing was way off......imporoper timing will cause elevated EGT's and burn anything around them.......
I properly tuned engine with ceramic coated headers will only have a outside header tube temp of 350 degrees F max......
I put Flowtech 311016FLT long tube headers on my 76. You can use regular plugs and I run Taylor spiral core wires and haven't burnt one yet.The headers fit well and I run stock exhaust gaskets,Fel-Pro, with no leaks.IMHO, shorty plugs, especially Accel, are a compromise at best
I'm curious why you don't like the shorty plugs. I've been using them for at least 20 years and never heard of any problems before. My only complaint is the cost.
Were your headers ceramic coated? If not....make sure your next set are......
If they were ceramic coated....then your timing was way off......imporoper timing will cause elevated EGT's and burn anything around them.......
I properly tuned engine with ceramic coated headers will only have a outside header tube temp of 350 degrees F max......
Jebby
Yes, there were ceramic coated - timing was good - wouldn't melt them sitting still, would only do during several hard runs so no way for me to really measure exhaust temp at that time....
I put Flowtech 311016FLT long tube headers on my 76. You can use regular plugs and I run Taylor spiral core wires and haven't burnt one yet.The headers fit well and I run stock exhaust gaskets,Fel-Pro, with no leaks.IMHO, shorty plugs, especially Accel, are a compromise at best
I have been running Accel shorty for decades due to angle plug heads and side pipe headers with no issues.
No mention of plug wire brand, but an excellent set that can handle over a 1,000 degrees and have the silicone boots are north of $120.
I recommend a 90* angle boot at the plug, and I installed a sock or a sleeve at the plug also.
This is on "77 with SBC and Flowtech headers.
I don't buy plugs just because they fit or just because they clear the headers. Buy plugs that your head chambers want, proper reach and proper heat range. Then figure out how to keep the wires from interfering with headers later.
If you install the wire looms / brackets that hold the plug wires along the valve covers, they are less likely to get burned.
I have been running Accel shorty for decades due to angle plug heads and side pipe headers with no issues.
They sure must have made the plugs better than their wires and coils. I had 2 super coils fail and one left me stranded on the side of the road, good thing I had AAA plus.After a couple of sets of their super stock wires and getting misses at speed I measured a set with a good multimeter and found 1.5k and as much as 15k per wire, pure junk am not a johnny come lately as I first gt my drivers license when I turned 16 in 1959 and have been working on cars ever since and some before.
I wish you luck
They sure must have made the plugs better than their wires and coils. I had 2 super coils fail and one left me stranded on the side of the road, good thing I had AAA plus.After a couple of sets of their super stock wires and getting misses at speed I measured a set with a good multimeter and found 1.5k and as much as 15k per wire, pure junk am not a johnny come lately as I first gt my drivers license when I turned 16 in 1959 and have been working on cars ever since and some before.
I wish you luck
Ironically I also used a big yellow Super Coil for decades with no problem. It was fed by the stock resistance wire.
I have uncoated StainlessWorks stainless headers on my SBC 408.....and used same on my 350....over 20,000 miles on the 77 Vette...nothing is burned, and no heat transfer into car. They fit very well on both engines....too damn expensive for sure. But....they have all the best technology....thick flanges, collector spike, mandrel bends....etc. No banging dents to fit in my car....although very close to the heavy duty idler arm installed....about 1/16 inch clearance,....but no contact. Plenty of clearance everywhere else. Highly recommend, but over $1000.
Last edited by Shovels and Vettes; May 1, 2023 at 08:34 PM.
NTFDay,
Looks great! Do you have a picture of much they stick down below the underside of the car? I do plan on adjusting the stance a little more aggressive so I guess I need to factor that in too...
I have uncoated StainlessWorks stainless headers on my SBC 408.....and used same on my 350....over 20,000 miles on the 77 Vette...nothing is burned, and no heat transfer into car. They fit very well on both engines....too damn expensive for sure. But....they have all the best technology....thick flanges, collector spike, mandrel bends....etc. No banging dents to fit in my car....although very close to the heavy duty idler arm installed....about 1/16 inch clearance,....but no contact. Plenty of clearance everywhere else. Highly recommend, but over $1000.
Mine is the same color '77, still has the original paint....
NTFDay,
Looks great! Do you have a picture of much they stick down below the underside of the car? I do plan on adjusting the stance a little more aggressive so I guess I need to factor that in too...
thanks so much,
Michael
I don't have one, but I'll try to get one posted by tomorrow. Mine sits pretty low in the front 225-15 R60's
Mine is the same color '77, still has the original paint....
Very cool........when I restored it, I was going to paint it black....my favorite color, but the wife thought we should stick with the original Orange, Code 66.....and I am glad I did. Its a one year color and is stunning, especially in low light, like at sunset......it turns into multiple shades of orange. The painter really like it.
Very cool........when I restored it, I was going to paint it black....my favorite color, but the wife thought we should stick with the original Orange, Code 66.....and I am glad I did. Its a one year color and is stunning, especially in low light, like at sunset......it turns into multiple shades of orange. The painter really like it.
Yeah, I go back and forth about painting it a different color, but my dad bought it brand new and handed it down to me so everyone we know identifies us in the car - wouldn't be the same if we painted it. Have only seen one other one locally the same color and its been awhile since I have seen it.... but I did think they offered it in '76 too but not 100% sure about that.
Header input needed
