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New member here and have owned my 75 4 speed for 24 years. Haven't had any electrical issues until now... Created an electrical issue for myself and cannot seem to get it resolved.
Started off by not disconnecting the battery when reconnecting my alternator wires (had to do some power steering work). So the red wire hit the casing when the black wire was connected and it sparked. Well after that I went back to disconnect the battery and there were no courtesy lights. The CTSY fuse was not blown but I swapped it out anyways. Still no courtesy lights. Pulled out my Chilton's and started tracing wires. It seems that the orange wire to the CTSY fuse is powered off the battery or somewhere in the wiring. I get 12 Volts on the battery and up to the starter, but nothing beyond that.
I'm guessing it is the fusible link? My next course of action is to start stripping the wire tape and see if there are any connections that have degraded over time. or wire issues with the harness. Wondering if anyone has run into the same issue and how it was fixed.
fuseable link is a good thought.
wires run from alt along drv inner fender to fusebox, horn relay, etc.
mine was a foot or so in front of master cyl along drv fender.
look there
On my 1975 drawing I see three fusible links 2 at or near the bulkhead connector and one at the starter solenoid BAT lug.
Circuit 2 branches off so they use the reference starting at 2A and you can see at the alternator it is 2B, 2C, 2D and so on, but it is all part of Circuit 2. One big happy loopppp
As you can see at or near the bulkhead connector there are 2 different fusible links, one is a 16 gauge (red wire) and a 20 gauge (orange wire)...
The one at the starter is a red 14 gauge...
So if it is a fusible link make sure you size the new fusible link the same as what was removed...
You may have smoked one...it happens...
Last edited by bmotojoe; Aug 14, 2023 at 12:15 AM.
Thanks guys! Looks like I'll be stripping the harnesses down to the wires to find the links. Appreciate the assist.
You really shouldn't need to remove any tape to find the splice joint for the link unless of course it was repaired already.
Look for a white/cream colored plastic capsule about 1" long, that will be the splice joint from regular automotive wiring to fusible link wire.
You really shouldn't need to remove any tape to find the splice joint for the link unless of course it was repaired already.
Look for a white/cream colored plastic capsule about 1" long, that will be the splice joint from regular automotive wiring to fusible link wire.
Looks like all of the fusible links are there. There is also a random red wire connected to an inline fuse holder that connects to a orange wire on the passenger side of the engine compartment by the firewall. Makes me wonder if there is anything else out of the ordinary.
I'm going to start with the fusible link by the starter. Any suggestions for testing them? Or just start replacing?
2025 C2 of the Year ('64-'66) Finalist - Unmodified
2025 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2025 C4 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 C4 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2023 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C4 of the Year Finalist- Modified
2022 C4 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2021 C7 of the Year Winner -- Modified
2020 C4 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Originally Posted by Ghostrider272
Looks like all of the fusible links are there. There is also a random red wire connected to an inline fuse holder that connects to a orange wire on the passenger side of the engine compartment by the firewall. Makes me wonder if there is anything else out of the ordinary.
I'm going to start with the fusible link by the starter. Any suggestions for testing them? Or just start replacing?
When the link fails, the wire inside burns to a crisp leaving the wire insulation intacked. just give them a good pull (grasp with both hands on each side of suspect link) and the bad link will separate in you hand
And if your still not 100% sure there is a break in the link doing the test above you can disconnect the M/FM connector I labeled 2-B/D on the drawing and do a voltage test at connector 2B.
Connectors 2B & 2D ties the charge circuit together....The happy loooppp...
Connectors should be under the brake booster/master cylinder area...
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Originally Posted by Ghostrider272
There is also a random red wire connected to an inline fuse holder that connects to a orange wire on the passenger side of the engine compartment by the firewall.
When you put the fan speed switch to HIGH that fuse feeds the blower motor.
Following up... Appreciate all the help. Finally got around to rewiring the front end and the car runs. I was able to bleed the power steering and am now chasing small gremlins. Goal is on the road soon!
1975 L48 Electrical Issues
