Need to change my timing chain on my 69 L46. So I was trying to get any advice/tips from those who have done this while the engine was still in the car. I need to take out my radiator anyway, so no issue there. Can I drop the oil pan and take it out while the engine is still in? Does removing the hood provide better access? (looks like it should) I've done this before on a Mazda but never a chevy 350. Also, do you all recommend using some RTV in addition to the gaskets, and if so, where? I got a onr piece oil pan gasket from Central Corvette, anybody use these?

 

yes in car is doable.
place engine in # 6 firing position
1 full turn from #1 firing, remove dist cap watch rotor to be at #1
when putting on new chain and aligning dots, will be at # 6 firing
need to remove water pump
pan
timing chain cover
might need puller for crank gear?
remember you will be at #6

put timing cover on before pan

good luck

 

You may have to drop the steering linkage to get pan-drop clearance. Easy to do by removing the two idler arm bolts on the passenger frame rail. The one-piece gaskets usually need longer bolts - if the gasket didn't come with them, then be prepared to hit the hardware store if your current bolts won't reach the block threads. As to RTV, I used a thin smear on both sides of the timing cover gasket, just to fill small surface imperfections.

You can align the dots on #1 too, but it's more challenging. At #1, both dots will be at 12:00 on the cam and crank; at #6, the crank dot will be at 12:00 and the camshaft dot will be at 6:00. It's easier to visually align the 12/6 orientation than 12/12.

 

Easy done in car. No need to pull rad. If you have a stock fan shroud that will need to come out. Yes you need to drop the steering linkage a tad to remove the pan. I unhook the power steering ram just on the outer nut. And pop the tapper on the idler arm. Which I believe is easier than getting to that upper bolt to unbolt it. But I also have a really nice tool for that. No torn boots here.
you absolutely need a correct harmonic balancer puller and installer. No doubt about it.
Have fun.

 

Cloyes 9-1100 timing set is still a smokin deal......like $40
Use blue lock tight on the cam bolts and/or a cam lockplate. You line the dots up together with #1 and #6 at TDC but the cam will now be at #6 TDC.....now rotate the crank one turn and both dots will be at 12 o'clock.....this is TDC#1. The cam turn half the speed of the crank......this will ensure you have the distributor in the right spot during installation and that you are not "180 guy" on Facebook bitchin about it like a tool.....
Use very little RTV on the timing cover and replace the oil pan gasket with a one piece OS34509T Fel Pro.......
That's it!

Jebby

 

jpatrick,
You don't have to remove the hood but makes access so much easier. Take a Sharpie and trace the hood hinge for future reinstallation. Use a broom handle to prop the hood as you remove the six bolts. Get a helper, both of you should have a ratchet and correct socket. Have blankets on the fenders and go slow.
Walk the hood over to the garage wall and store it on its big end.

Just before you are about to button things up with the timing cover, pour a little oil on the dry chain.

When the oil pan is off, should you change the pump? (age?)

 

Thanks for all the replies!

So

1. I remove the fan shroud, no need to remove radiator.
2. Remove the hood for better clearance.
3. Drain oil. Drain coolant from radiator.
4. Unbolt the idler arm for clearance of oil pan, remove pan.
5. Remove Hoses and remove water pump.
6. Cam runs 1/ 2 speed of crank. If I put distributor rotor pointing to #1 on compression stroke, then cam gear and crank gear marks are harder to align. Turn the crank 1 full turn and the cam and crank gear marks are closer together and easier to line up.
7. Use puller to remove harmonic balancer and crank gear (might need to heat up to make this easier?). Have to send balancer to Damper Doc for rebuild of 350/350 balancer.
8. Replace timing gear, Use blue lock tight on the cam bolts. At this point I can rotate crank 1 full turn to get distributor in #1 firing on compression stroke.
9. Use very little RTV on the timing cover. Hopefully the balancer is back from Damper Doc by this time.
10. Replace oil pump probably a good idea while oil pan is dropped. Once done, seal up oil pan - I did order a one-piece oil pan gasket.
11. Install new water pump and hoses, fill radiator. Fill engine oil.


BTW, the DR timing chain from CC was Elgin brand - hope that is good.

 

#7: Heat* isn't going to help much on removing the balancer. It should come off without a lot of effort with a damper puller - just lots and lots of quarter turns of the ratchet wrench!

You're going to need a puller for the crank gear - just a regular 2 or 3 arm puller works fine.
Check the crank snout where the timing cover seal rides. Any grooving that you can feel with your fingernail will be a source of oil leaking. There are snout repair sleeves available but I've never had the need for one.

*When you go to install the crank gear of the new timing set, a handy "trick" is to heat it so it just slides into place with finger pressure alone. I put my 427's gear in the kitchen oven at 200°F for about 30 minutes (as I recall) and just slid it right on without any effort at all. You could play a torch around the gear to expand it too. You only get one shot at this so don't hesitate when installing it - otherwise it will shrink down on the snout out of place and the puller will be needed to get it off again.

#8: Unless you rotate the engine without the distributor in place there is no need to realign it to #1. The timing will be maintained from before. The engine rotations are only to get the timing set dots visually aligned.

#9: Does the new pan gasket come with the longer bolts? If not be ready for a hardware store run.
Also a good time to check the oil pan rails for flatness and tap back to shape if someone distorted the pan rail by over-tightening the bolts.

 

jpatrick,

If any of your installing / pulling tools thread into the harmonic balance bolt hole, never let the tool bottom out.

Just run the tool in the crank snout, snug to bottom of hole, then back it out two turns. In rare occasions the tool can snap off inside the crank.
Your worst nightmare.

 

You have to pay close attention to the timing set……for years, rebox outfits (like Comp Cams) have been selling “double roller” chains that look the part but are not a true roller….the cheapo sets ride right on the chain pin…..the true roller sets (like the Cloyes 9-1100) have a sleeve that rides on the pin….which lasts like ten times longer…..
The cheapo sets will have slack after 5000 miles….absolute junk…..

Jebby

 

Thanks for the great advice. 👍

 

If not the pump, at least the drive shaft and the plastic coupler. If it were me, I'd go with the Melling replacement shaft, the one with the metal coupler.

 

Yeah...kinda of SOP with me too.....when the pan is off.......pump/pickup/steel collar shaft/stud. So easy to do and like $50 for everything.

Jebby

 

Thank you 67:72 for stating

#8: Unless you rotate the engine without the distributor in place there is no need to realign it to #1. The timing will be maintained from before. The engine rotations are only to get the timing set dots visually aligned.

 

Drain the block at the sides, also.

 

I just did it on my ‘69 300hp. A few comments to above.
Buy a good puller/installer for the harmonic damper since it is pressed onto the crank. Do NOT use a puller that threads into the crank snout for the pulling operation as it will destroy the threads. Do use the puller/installer threaded into the crank to put the damper back onto the crank. If your ‘69 does not have a bolt for the damper, now is the time to add one.
I did it without removing the pan but now is a good time to change the pan gasket - as all commented already.
If you still had the plastic cam gear make sure it 100% all there when you remove it or find the bits in the oil pan.