I am looking for a little advice this time instead of troubleshooting questions. I was planning on having some work completed on my 1970 Corvette. I was having a few electrical issues and was noticing a few extra wires or a wire not hooked up to anything, so after a lot of troubleshooting I decided it might be best to have the harness replaced. I had a few other things in need of repair as well. I am not sure exactly why but my thought was to take it to a local restoration / hot rod shop for these repairs. I guess I was thinking that I felt comfortable they would do it right.

While waiting for the shop to get to me in line, I have repaired almost all of the electrical issues and am thinking that I wait to bother with the harness (at the advice of some on here). So, here is where I need some advice, if I have 3 bigger jobs that I would like completed, seals in motor and transmission replaced (they are leaking a little), all the bushings for the suspension replaced and new headers and exhaust system. Should I continue to work with a restoration / hot rod shop or just a regular mechanic? Would I be paying restoration labor rates for something a mechanic could do?

As always, thank you for all of your advice and help.

 

If the mechanic has experience working on older cars they should be able to handle what you described. You don't need a restoration shop.

 

Is that shop more of a restoration shop for paint & body, or do they do a lot of mechanicals too? Have you had them do work before? (or know other car owners who have?). What is their local reputation?

It all comes down to the mechanic who is working on your car on THAT day. What is his experience, care, thoroughness? How the shop structures the mechanic's pay can affect how the mechanics approach a job. Will they take care to spend a little extra time to get the new bushings 'right', and put the right bolts back where they below, or overlook details to git-er-dun! Most production shops work on flat rate and the emphasis is to get a job in and out quickly.

It's possible the restoration shop works on a hourly rate because on older cars you never know what you're going to run into in terms of unknowns. If so it's a matter of paying them the time it takes to get it right. That might cost more to do it that way, but its fair. Suspension work is kind of finicky. Have you heard good things about that restoration shop/mechanic? Have they done quite a few C3's?

Anyone who's received sketchy work would agree doing the job right the first time (even if it costs you more) is money well spent. Versus sloppy work from a hurried shop which has to be fixed ore redone.

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Also,
When I was going to college, for the first couple years, I worked at a restoration shop which specialized restoring and working on C1-2's and 55-6-7 chevies ...and some 60's muscle cars. That was the relm. No Fords or Chryslers. That was the shop owner's passion and he *knew* those cars inside and out. The guys I worked with were some of the best and smartest mechanics and craftsman around and that I've ever met. I learned a lot from them. I was green so I didn't get to finish work on any of the Corvettes, but did a lot of the assisting. If it was a job we weren't adept at (say, rebuilding a transmission), the owner knew a guy who was THE 'go-to' guy for those sub-assemblies. All bolts were put back in the right place because the guys knew what were the correct bolts and brackets and where the wires/hoses & everything should *exactly* go. Hardware store fasteners weren't substitubed for 'wrong' non-correct items. We had tons of correct fasteners around and bins of used fasteners we could restore if we needed.

A lot of times once into a project we would discover crappy previous work and it was up to the owner if they wanted it done 'right', what the amended costs would be, or put the same parts back in. The shop charged by the hour. Overall, It wasn't cheap for owners. Restorations and repairs never are. But the repairs and work was done 'right' and no repair or restoration quality at our shop was ever sacraficed in order to get a car off the hoist and out the door.

I know another guy who took over the same building where I once worked and now owns/operates a similar type of shop. They basically have the same mindset and turn out top quality work. I would hope this shop you are referring to operates in a similar fashion.

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Do you have the Assembly Manual for your car? The main wiring harnesses were a 1 size fits all, meaning that if a car wasn't ordered with XYZ option, then the wire wasn't used or was clipped. The AIM will have notations for when wires were clipped off. Having unconnected wires isn't a huge concern. Doc Rebuild has very good, heavy stock, laminated, year-specific wiring diagrams with the connectors pictured and they are a huge help in finding what wire or connector was intended for what component.

 

That's it...
I'm lucky that one of my best friends for the last 40+ years is a mechanic with a ton of experience & is sick of working on new cars.
He can handle anything I can't & I can trust him 100%. Only problem is looming retirement..

 

@Mark G Your words are exactly why I tried to find a restoration shop to begin with. I knew I wanted it done right and thought if they can take a car completely apart and fab parts and rebuild it, then they can surely do what I am needing. I only know of the shops from what I have read online in reviews. For the work that I am/was wanting, I couldn't really get many shops to even call me back or act like the repairs were worth their time. This one did. The shop is still interested in doing the work but they have a minimum $5,000 repair cost or they do not do the work. I only felt like what I was needing was beneath them (if that is the correct word). That is why I started thinking about a shop that was more mechanical rather than restoration.

I don't mind spending a little more to get it done right. I appreciate all of your words and experienced advice.

 

@67:72 I do have the AIM and will look for the wiring diagram, that sounds very helpful. The unclipped wiring does not worry me as much as random wires that have been attached to the harness, run for a bit and then are cut off, or red wires that are then spliced and come off with a green unmatched colored wire. There are several places with old electrical tape and I know that doesn't mean everything, but it makes me want to follow wires and see where they go. Someone previously got rid of a few things that I did not notice in the beginning (windshield wiper fluid reservoir, horns, temperature sending unit, and a few others) and that is why I started out with wanting to replace the harness as I was experiencing several electrical issues.

Thanks for the advice and the tip for the wiring diagram. I will try to find that now.

 

To me you have the engine/transmission work and suspension work. They are different animals, and like described above, a lot of shops, even your corner old-school mechanic guy who has a good reputation can easily handle the engine & trans work. The suspension though .....What level of suspension work are you looking for? What does your car need?

Are you thinking you just need certain worn bushings replaced ...or all bushings replaced? Or are you looking to have the suspension arms blasted, re-painted and new bushings installed? That's the thing about the suspension. Once you get the parts and springs off and they're sitting right there on the floor, looking pretty rusty ...rustier than you thought they were, then you might consider having them restored. And then ...what level of restoration are you looking for on those pieces. Blasted, dipped, ??

A suspension shop could change the bushings quick and easy, and even paint up the parts (probably with a spray can). If that's what you're looking for the corner suspension shop who has a good owner who 'gets' what you're trying to do, could do the work. But then you get to the rear bearings and there you're into territory where you need someone who's picky and been there. Or else buy reconditioned trailing arms that they can just install.

Many autobody shop owners (maybe most??) are classic car enthusiasts and have restored many cars on their own in off-hours or slow periods. You might talk to a few. It's very difficult to charge for all the hours needed for a restoration, which is why restoration shops tend to fail a few years after they get going. Those who survive tend to want to deal with money'd owners who will gripe at the costs, but still pay because they trust the shop and/or appreciate that quality costs money. So they may have a minumum like you are describing. But owning a bodyshop you have steady insurance crash revenue to pay yer guys ...allows some owners to do side restorations ..and maybe the workers have a side-restoration in process of their own in the shop.

You might drive around with your car, and talk to your local guys, let them look and just talk. If you find a couple who are good candidates, then ask around for what the word on the street about their work is.

You could post a question too "where is a good shop/guy in my area?"

 

@Mark G I appreciate all of your sound advice. As far as the repairs, yes, I am looking to get the bushings replaced. Having them blasted and painted (even with a spray paint would be nice too since everything will be out and out of the way. I understand the minimum requirement and appreciate that, just not sure my needs live up to that level anymore since I do not want to replace the wiring harness. That is the only reason I have decided to rethink this. I was just thinking, and you then stated it, that I might need to put some miles on it and talk to people. Maybe get involved with a local club and hear their advice and recommendations on shops. I have only had the car for a few months and for the most of that time, I have been working on it and trying to get everything working properly.

I really appreciate all of your sound experienced advice and will keep referring to it as I decide on what the best move will be.

Thanks again!

 

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