I have a 71. Ontario orange. The car was repainted the original color with original laquer around 1990 before I bought it. The paint still looks really good with the exception of the hood. It has some flaking and a few tiny cracks in the paint. A painter I know suggested I repaint the hood with modern paint and clear coat it instead of the laquer. He says he can match the color. I am even considering having the front of the car repainted since there are a few tiny rock dings. BUT actually, I really just want some of your guys/girls thoughts on the hood. Will my hood match the laquer on the rest of the car if it is painted and clear coated instead of laquer that is on the rest of the car?

 

pic?
I would leave it.
imo paint the car when ready..
that said if he can match as he says you can spray a panel and judge for yourself..
that said the clear will change the look imo.. side by side .

 

your options are matching the color perfect with single stage or bc/cc but there will be a slight depth change with bc/cc if the painter needs to bring color all the way out to the edge and then two-three coats of clear over it, if he can keep the color away from the edges he can blend the color and just bring one coat of clear to the outer edges of the hood.
if the color on the hood needs to come out to the edges (against the surround panel) I would suggest painting the front end in the same process blending the color and only bringing the final coat of clear to the end of the fenders nearest the door.
getting en exact color match is unlikely if you understand metamerism but can fool the eye in certain lights.
if I were gonna match the color and panel paint the hood single stage would be a better option without the depth of the clear.
You still risk painting today's materials over lacquer but if painted correctly can be done (slowly, lightly with lots of flash), single stage acrylic would be best if panel painting as acrylic enamel takes 30 days or more to fully dry/cure for long term solvent evaporation

 

I'm trying to post a pic for the first time on here. If this works, this is the car from about 10 feet away.

 

This is the Hood.

 

if it's isolated towards the center of the hood it can absolutely be blended with bc/cc and just the final coat of clear being taken out to the edges of the hood if the color is matched well.
you can see here o​​​​​​n the 69 the outside photo if you zoom in has cracks on the front of the door, the inside photo is after I repaired and pinted, color matched and basecoat blended with clear to the end.
the 64 after I installed the hood, the gold is blended into the surround panel and cleared final coat to the ends of the fneders.
both had 20-30 year old paint on them (64 older)

you would want to seriously consider waterborne primer if possible and if not UV primer for no solvent soak into the open paint edge.

 

Matching is in the eye of the beholder, meaning his match may not be the same as your match, but being a pro painter, hopefully his eye is more critical than yours. I've heard (no experience) that single stage modern paint better replicates the look of lacquer than base/clear.

 

And my apologies if I was misunderstood, when I read the original post and seen "orange" I just assumed a sold color (non metallic) whis is why a single stage would better duplicate lacquer eliminating the 2-3 coats of clear depth but as I see it's metallic that takes single stage right out of it.

 

Please do me some learnin': single stage doesn't come in metallic?

 

I appreciate your guys input. It doesn't bother me too much personally cause I'm not out here trying to win trophies. However, I'm pretty sure the hood is going to get worse as time goes by. I know nothing about painting a car. Especially an old corvette. I'm considering selling one of mine (maybe this one) and I know everybody is looking for the ones that look like they have been kept, covered up in the house like a piece of furniture.......For the price of a wreck. I thought mine would maybe sell easier if that hood was corrected. I welcome anybody that wants to chime in with anymore suggestions and thank you all.

 

well it does but wouldn't be a good candidate IMO for this repair with all involved.
there is allot of moving parts here... non-clearcoted lacquer is solvent sensitive and also hard to prep without damaging the metallics if your gonna blend and clear over, your likely to see the bruised metallics beyond the blend area so I would use a sanding paste to prep beyond where color would go, I would also lay down a "wet bed" or what's called a membrane of over reduced clear before laying color and blend, best way for adhesion with sanding that non-clearcoated color and a non detectable repair.
any single stage metallic would certainly be harder to match if panel painting because the paint can dry to many different shades depending on how fast or slow it cures, most paints continue to get darker as they dry and cure... this is called floatation as the darker pigments are actually lighter in weight and tend to float where the lighter tone pigments tend to sink. (You can always see this when painting inside your house walls and go back to do some touch up... it's always lighter till it dries)
also single stage metallics are harder to create a uniform metallic pattern while also trying to achieve a color match, what you finish with better be pretty perfect as its also harder to wetsand and buff without mottling the metallics.
after seeing this color bc/cc would be my only option for a high quality finish but again that's just me.
I wouldn't panel paint again if it were me, the human eye can only pick up the final color which is a combination of all toners in that color, the light source (incandescent, fluorescent, full spectrum etc.) All have different color waves which will pull out any pigment differences from the paint formula on the car vs the newly matched formula (I hope this makes since and probably a bigger answer than wanted ;-) )

 

How about a black trm in vinyl down that side profile .


Idea

 

Please understand this is just my thoughts and nothing more trying to help someone, automotive paint is an area I've been involved in for almost 30 years and spent 16 of them teaching OEM paint certification.

if this guy was local I would actually help him through this repair, technically today's paints are NOT designed to go over lacquer or even an uncured finish, it can be done but carefully.

 

I wish you were close enough to help. My area is limited to painters with the knowledge to paint an old vintage car. Most of the local body shops basically repair newer cars where insurance is involved. They don't have much enthusiasm when it comes to doing what I want done.

 

I am in the collision industry and it's off the charts busy, frankly can't remember ever seeing it like this, most shops are scheduled out 4-6 weeks with collision and most don't want to do repairs like you have.
what's your area, I cen see if I can shake a few trees if we have paint distribution in the area?
We are all over the country just not in every market

 

Thanks. Most repair shops of any kind are extremely busy in my neighborhood. I live in SE KY. One of my biggest concerns is having to leave my car no matter where the work is done. I know it will have to be left but I dread it. I had a beautiful 64 coupe. Left it (for a day) to have the headlight motors removed so I could have them repaired. Stopped the next morning to pick up the motors. Car was never seen or heard from again!

 

wow, sorry to hear that, I wouldn't set you up with someone flaky if I can even find someone close, we own distribution on the east coast called Kemperle just not sure how close to S/E Kentucky, will find out.

I will be out there last week in Oct. kids and grandkids live in Cosby Tennessee, love the area.

 

Thanks!