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1st time using new scissor lift. Lifted car a couple inches and shook the car aggressively up and down from the front and rear. Seems solid. Saw no body flex but then no motor/trans in it. Lifting points on frame seem right to you? Thanks
RickM
Sorry. Don't like it. Don't like the concept.
The whole idea of a lift is to get at repairs under the car. You can't get under the car.
I just don't see an advantage point unless it was used for a tire rotation or brake work.
That is the main reason I got it. To get the car at a comfortable working height for brake work, etc. I knew there would be no transmission/clutch type work with it. My shop ceiling is just too low for a true lift. As it is, will need to be careful lifting as it will put the roof through the ceiling. It is a compromise. As a plus, it has rollers so can move it around as needed. The lift itself I'm okay with as far as strength. Heavy duty materials and construction. Tried to get the pivot point at center of car. My main concern is if the pads are spread out enough or pick it up a different way. Thanks all for your input.
I don't know if I would get under it. I think your center of gravity will become an issue if you have an engine in the car. Blocks under wheels are always good. I like my Quickjack.
What type of locking system does it have? I would not rely upon just the hydraulic system to keep it in the up position. Much like a floor jack, a failed seal could bring it down. Jerry
I don’t see a problem with it. You’re using it how it was designed to be used and you’ve placed the lift pads at the correct frame locations. Most scissor-type lifts I’ve seen have mechanical stops that you should use to lock the lift at certain elevation points. Does yours have them and are you using them? If the mechanical locks are engaged, I don’t see a problem with getting under the car. Use jack stands as extra insurance if you like. This type of lift is commonly used for performing bodywork and brake/suspension stuff.
C3's are kind of a pain to jack up. Not everyone has the space or need for a 4-post lift. I think if you use this lift to jack the car up, put *sturdy* blocks or boxes under the tires, then lower the scissors lift and pull it out of the way (when you need to actually work underneath it) ...it'll be a nice tool.
And besides, C3's don't like being supported by the center area too long. It's puts a lot of stress on the nose and tail which will over-hanging. And that stress could very well result in cracked bonding joints at the top/rear front fenders (by the door). Then you'd be opening up a new can off worms. You can probably hear it creak and crack when you lift it up. So raising it and supporting on it's wheels (make a taller base for your boxes) would be a good idea.
I guess the question becomes, can you drive over this lift, or does it need to be stored somewhere?
It looks super strong. But its always going to be in the way of many repair projects.
It will be a fast way to get the vehicle up on four jackstands, then pull it out.
What type of locking system does it have? I would not rely upon just the hydraulic system to keep it in the up position. Much like a floor jack, a failed seal could bring it down. Jerry
If you look at the pics of unit can see the lock bar assembly between the hydraulic cylinders. Right now am just holding it a few inches above my blocks to test the pump & cylinders for holding pressure. Once I actually get underneath to remove spare tire and drop the gas tank, will engage the lock.
I can see that once the drivetrain is in, may need to rethink the lift points. Thanks for the input guys. I do appreciate it.
RickM
I guess the question becomes, can you drive over this lift, or does it need to be stored somewhere?
Not sure yet. Car has been up on the blocks via floorjack for some time now. Bought the lift and slid under while on the blocks. I think collapsed height is 4". Be close. Will find out later.
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Take the rear tires off first because if you leave them on and take your front end apart its going to be rocking backwards. My 68 did that with no engine and my front suspension removed. Maybe test liftingvthe front with your hands to see how light it gets
I don’t see a problem with it. You’re using it how it was designed to be used and you’ve placed the lift pads at the correct frame locations. Most scissor-type lifts I’ve seen have mechanical stops that you should use to lock the lift at certain elevation points. Does yours have them and are you using them? If the mechanical locks are engaged, I don’t see a problem with getting under the car. Use jack stands as extra insurance if you like. This type of lift is commonly used for performing bodywork and brake/suspension stuff.
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Would you work underneath this?
