C3 purchase question
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,732
Likes: 707
From: Shelton, Connecticut
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
C3 purchase question
Currently have a 2013 GS vert.
Looking to add to the 'fleet'. I am very familiar with the C3 as I did a body off restoration on a 72 LT1 w/C60.
However, that was in 1988/89.
My question is these cars are now over 40 years old. Parts are less abundant, and the number of owners is relatively unknown.
I am looking at a 1978 SA with the two tone paint. Owner says the car is decent. My problem is I know all the fluids would need to be flushed and changed.
I'll let a local shop handle that. But, what about the things you don't know about? Wheel bearings may have been repacked or not. The rear wheel bearings would
probably need to be taken apart to clean and lube or replace, what mods have been done to the interior that are not visible?
While I am not frightened about doing these things, I was MUCH younger in 1988 and not sure if I could handle all that.
Has anybody bought a C3 lately and experienced any major issues?
Thanks.
Looking to add to the 'fleet'. I am very familiar with the C3 as I did a body off restoration on a 72 LT1 w/C60.
However, that was in 1988/89.
My question is these cars are now over 40 years old. Parts are less abundant, and the number of owners is relatively unknown.
I am looking at a 1978 SA with the two tone paint. Owner says the car is decent. My problem is I know all the fluids would need to be flushed and changed.
I'll let a local shop handle that. But, what about the things you don't know about? Wheel bearings may have been repacked or not. The rear wheel bearings would
probably need to be taken apart to clean and lube or replace, what mods have been done to the interior that are not visible?
While I am not frightened about doing these things, I was MUCH younger in 1988 and not sure if I could handle all that.
Has anybody bought a C3 lately and experienced any major issues?
Thanks.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,513
Likes: 1,949
From: Temple Terrace Florida
The parts for the cars are, very much, still available. Pick up a few catalogs from Zip, Corvette Central, etc. As for the engines and transmissions, GM made millions of them, so many parts are available over the counter through shops like NAPA. All of the major interior pieces are being reproduced by vendors. As far as your specific situation, have your prospective car inspected by a professional so there are no major surprises. Good luck. Jerry
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 1,763
Likes: 919
From: Arizona
Much like you I had lots of C3s in the late 80s/early 90s... got disconnected from them for some years with some other cars, about 5-6 years ago I came back to corvettes.
I currently have a 2011 Grand Sport and after a 64 and 69 vette in the past few years i actually settled on a 1980.
I searcIed for a while for the right low mile car and found one that had been owned by a collector and completely refurbished for show by a Chevrolet dealer.
So far it has been fantastic ownership, i enjoy driving it over the C6, I am mechanically inclined and love working on it and tinkering with it and show it when I can.
Again the car has been front to back, top to bottom gone through so i have had absolutely zero problems and get in the car every week and drive it without worry... even in Arizona summer.
I had to change an ignition switch for an intermittent problem and have done my own touches, never a problem finding a part or getting good advise and direction.
This forum has been fantastic any time I've had a question and gives me comfort to be on it.
Best of luck in your decision and hopenits a good car.
I currently have a 2011 Grand Sport and after a 64 and 69 vette in the past few years i actually settled on a 1980.
I searcIed for a while for the right low mile car and found one that had been owned by a collector and completely refurbished for show by a Chevrolet dealer.
So far it has been fantastic ownership, i enjoy driving it over the C6, I am mechanically inclined and love working on it and tinkering with it and show it when I can.
Again the car has been front to back, top to bottom gone through so i have had absolutely zero problems and get in the car every week and drive it without worry... even in Arizona summer.
I had to change an ignition switch for an intermittent problem and have done my own touches, never a problem finding a part or getting good advise and direction.
This forum has been fantastic any time I've had a question and gives me comfort to be on it.
Best of luck in your decision and hopenits a good car.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,732
Likes: 707
From: Shelton, Connecticut
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Thanks.
Golfobsessed, I still have the original sales paperwork for a 1980
red Corvette I ordered from the factory.
I prefer the 78/79 body style and the fact that I was not happy with the aluminum
rear end in the 80. GM also changed how they mounted the rear frame member.
Had issues with under size machining under warranty.
Also, the shifter kept popping out of gear in 2nd and 4th. Dealer fixed it by spraying WD40 on
the shifter shaft. The body rubber seal was too short and preloaded the shaft.
Golfobsessed, I still have the original sales paperwork for a 1980
red Corvette I ordered from the factory.
I prefer the 78/79 body style and the fact that I was not happy with the aluminum
rear end in the 80. GM also changed how they mounted the rear frame member.
Had issues with under size machining under warranty.
Also, the shifter kept popping out of gear in 2nd and 4th. Dealer fixed it by spraying WD40 on
the shifter shaft. The body rubber seal was too short and preloaded the shaft.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 2,771
Likes: 2,296
From: Central UT
Welcome to the hunt! It's a hobby, so it should be fun for sure. A couple of thoughts from someone who also 'isn't as young as I used to be'. 
Best, Paul
- IMO, some of your decision should be based on variables like: how much can you, and do you enjoy, doing work yourself? And what tools do you have that make working on C3s easier - like a lift, good tools, etc.
- If you end up paying a shop to do things that you can easily do yourself (especially if you have a lift) the costs add up quickly - that may or may not be a big deal.
- I've recently completely restoring almost everything under our '68 L71 - suspension, all brakes/lines/hoses/calipers/rotors/etc., control arms, diff, all bushings, on and on. I've also done all the cooling system and had the carbs rebuilt. No way would I have tackled those chores without a good lift and lots of tools - and it gave me an excuse to get more tools too! And I learned a lot - this forum is awesome; lots of knowledgeable people willing to help. I did all the labor myself, with my son and sometimes my wife, exept for sending the carbs, diff and control arms out for rebuild.
- I'm doing the '68 because I enjoy doing the stuff. I have a back that goes once in a while (more lately), but I find it therapeutic and get a real sense of satisfaction. If you don't, you might want to reconsider an 'older' car.
- The old saying 'buy the best you can/want to afford' is good advice.
- C3s are drop dead gorgeous. But they're also +/- 50 years old. They require care, work, etc. to keep them reliable. Parts, for the most part, are very available.
Best, Paul
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 11,907
Likes: 4,479
From: Virginia
Anything mechanical can be fixed, either by you, or by a mechanic. Doesn't even have to be a specialized C3 mechanic for a lot of things. Smart folks on the Forum can talk you through a tune and point you to the timing and carb guru, @lars, if you need that that. Nearly everything in the cabin is reproduced, and anything under the hood or in the drivetrain can be replaced.
The critical items on a C3 are rust, paint condition, and both rust and paint. Those will be crazy expensive to farm out.
Before you inspect the car, read post 107 here, and know where to look for rust issues. You can watch TheCorvetteBen videos on YouTube as well to get a better idea. Bring a screwdriver, and check behind the kick panels, and get under the car. Put it on a lift if you can.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...orvette-6.html
The critical items on a C3 are rust, paint condition, and both rust and paint. Those will be crazy expensive to farm out.
Before you inspect the car, read post 107 here, and know where to look for rust issues. You can watch TheCorvetteBen videos on YouTube as well to get a better idea. Bring a screwdriver, and check behind the kick panels, and get under the car. Put it on a lift if you can.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...orvette-6.html
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 11,907
Likes: 4,479
From: Virginia
If you get a chance to see the car in person, check the engine stamp pad, VIN, and trim codes.
Originality is a huge albatross around my neck, but if you end up paying a premium for originality, it's good to confirm these things.
Here are some useful links.
https://corvettec3.ca/engines.htm
https://corvettec3.ca/interior.htm
https://corvettec3.ca/vin.htm
Originality is a huge albatross around my neck, but if you end up paying a premium for originality, it's good to confirm these things.
Here are some useful links.
https://corvettec3.ca/engines.htm
https://corvettec3.ca/interior.htm
https://corvettec3.ca/vin.htm
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,687
Likes: 833
From: WI
OP, based on your original post, why not, just for the heck of it, before you buy the SA, check out some C5's or later C4's?? Or have you already looked at them?
Sure they each have their set of issues, but at least the mechanical sides seem to be pretty solid.
Sure they each have their set of issues, but at least the mechanical sides seem to be pretty solid.
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