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Nice example of a situation where adding performance and retaining the look of originality were both achieved. Blends in perfect.
After detailing the firewall and inner fenders....with the ignition shielding and 14" air cleaner.......it is almost imperceptible......even has 64' 2.5" outlet rams horns....TKO 5 speed.......this is an easy 12 second car.......14 inches of vacuum......fires instants and has just a slight lope.......one of my favorite builds.....
I have both aluminum heads and an aluminum big block. I casually mentioned painting the whole engine orange and my engine builder had a shocked look on his face. I really wasn't going to paint the engine. With aluminum, you do have to worry about "white rust," the engine aluminum surface will eventually corrode and not look very good. I sprayed the engine with satin clear. I think it was an Eastwood clear paint. High temperature and UV resistant. Brodix heads, Keith Black block. 492 cubic inches. Calles crank and rods. Internally balanced.
Well this project was supposed to be a simple head swap and get her back running, BUT !!!! While cleaning the firewall I bumped in to the heater hoses which then just fell to the floor with the brass pipe still attached to the hose. So now I have to tear out the dash and replace the heater core. More money, more money,more money. At least I have the rest of winter to get her back running.
Well this project was supposed to be a simple head swap and get her back running, BUT !!!! While cleaning the firewall I bumped in to the heater hoses which then just fell to the floor with the brass pipe still attached to the hose. So now I have to tear out the dash and replace the heater core. More money, more money,more money. At least I have the rest of winter to get her back running.
You can fix that problem with two pipe-thread plugs.
Need some advice. As you know I have replaced my cast iron heads with aluminum heads. Here is the problem. One spark plug only went in half way. The rest went in just fine so I pulled the bad one back out and can see where the threads are getting crossed threaded . So I tried a thread clean out tool to see if there was something stopping the spark. Well it broke off in the spark plug hole. I was able to get all the pieces out thank goodness but now the spark plug hole won’t take the 14mm plug. Do I have to take the head back off and have it re threaded or can I use a 14mm thread chaser and re thread the hole myself. If I take the head back off can I reuse the gasket or is that gasket done.
Take the head off and helicoil it.....some people like timeserts better but you have to remove more material around the offending thread. If you have not fired the engine the head should pull away clean from the gasket......if you are concerned, paint it with copper spray-a-gasket...you will be fine....just make sure to follow your torque pattern of course and do it in two steps (40-65lbs.)
Take the head off and helicoil it.....some people like timeserts better but you have to remove more material around the offending thread. If you have not fired the engine the head should pull away clean from the gasket......if you are concerned, paint it with copper spray-a-gasket...you will be fine....just make sure to follow your torque pattern of course and do it in two steps (40-65lbs.)
Jebby
the engine has not been fired up since the new head went on. I am assuming that the intake gasket will come off also
the engine has not been fired up since the new head went on. I am assuming that the intake gasket will come off also
Probably.....if you don't "lift" anything....it will be fine......on reuse of intake gasket a VERY fine skim of RTV around each intake port and water port won't hurt......as thin as you can make it.
Well ran into a bit of a snag. Got the intake all un bolted distributor out but intake will not come lose from heads. It’s like it’s welded to it. The engine was never fired up. I did not put any RTV on the intake gaskets that face the intake. So don’t know what is holding it on. I am afraid of cracking the intake trying to pry it off .. very frustrating and to boot when I took off the upper radiator hose the inlet tube just broke off the radiator. So now I have to get a new radiator. 😡
Well ran into a bit of a snag. Got the intake all un bolted distributor out but intake will not come lose from heads. It’s like it’s welded to it. The engine was never fired up. I did not put any RTV on the intake gaskets that face the intake. So don’t know what is holding it on. I am afraid of cracking the intake trying to pry it off .. very frustrating and to boot when I took off the upper radiator hose the inlet tube just broke off the radiator. So now I have to get a new radiator. 😡
Look again and make sure all the bolts are out.......you would be surprised how often this happens even to the pros......LOL. If all the bolts are out.....jab a screwdriver in the end and pry away.......it takes a LOT to crack an intake..