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while I wait for the warmer weather to paint I’m finishing up some body work and have made my way to the front bumper.
Part 1: I couldn’t find it in my AIM, so looking for help on what the acceptable gap is from the front vertical bumper trim pieces to the main horizontal bumper? Is it supposed to sit flush up against it? Currently it’s comfortably positioned at about 1/4 in gap:
Part 2: if the bumpers are aligned as above, i have quite a mismatch between the vertical bumper and the trim that surrounds the opening:
Part 3: what’s the recommended path forward/remedy? Lower the vertical bumper so it aligns with the trim? That would result in almost a 1 inch gap at the top. Cut a relief in at the area indicated below and raise/re-fiberglass the lower valance so the trim will line up?
As you probably know, the vertical position of the valence in the center is controlled by the brackets that extend down from the headlight supports. I have seen instances where those brackets were split, then welded, to align with the trim. The gap between the bumperettes and bumper is not all that noticeable except when viewed from a distance so I’d be more inclined to live with a greater gap there than at the trim/bumperette junction.
Thanks! Yes, I may play around with the gap at the top/bottom to see if I can find something to live with vs. cutting and glassing it to perfection. Just didn’t know if there was a ‘standard’ gap I should be aiming for in either area.
You made me go out into the garage and take the cover off my Vette to see how mine was setup.
The gap at the top is about 1/2 inch, but you don't see that because it is below your line of sight when you are standing.
The bottom is pretty close to flush. I knew there was a gap at the top, but didn't pay too much attention to it as the bottom lines up.
Thanks, this is helpful! I still think my gap at the top will be bigger than yours is, but maybe I’ll test fit it that way and see how far back I have to stand before you can see it/it bothers me. Although, just knowing it’s there will bother me lol.
This is a picture the original owner took shortly after he did a factory delivery in St. Louis and drove it home.
You can see that the factory did not worry too much about proper alignment as the height of the middle of the bumper is a little lower than the ends.
This photo was taken before anything was done to the car. You can't see the gaps at the top of the bumperettes.
2025 c3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2025 C4 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2025 C8 Stingray of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
I fiddled with this issue on my 68 and 71 for many hours and finally "compromised". I attempted to get the best look when standing a few feet in front of the car. As pointed out the fit new from the factory was not that great to begin with and then add 50+ years of gravity, twisting and shaking from driving many miles, possible accidents, and POs attempts at whatever and you may have a real challenge.
I like your Alaska plate also. My car never actually made it to Alaska. By the time the Vette was manufactured Pan Am had transferred him to NY. He drove the car from the St. Louis factory to NY.
I bought the car from him in '74, but never thought to ask if he still had the Alaska plate. I do have the original Alaska title. Don't know how NY didn't take that when it was transferred to NY state.
It looks like your left backup light has an issue. Of course, cars this old always have some kind of issue. If you have fixed it once, then twenty years later it is probably time to fix it again.
Last edited by robertea; Jan 31, 2024 at 11:20 AM.
Reason: an additional comment
Thank you sir...I was only asking because after I found out the dealer my 68 was delivered to, Holler Chevrolet in Winter Park,FL., I picked up a Florida tag for 1968. So if you wanted the plate, I was going to list it for what I paid...$20. I did fix the back up light, just one of a dozen little items to take care of in the winter!
1969 front bumper / trim gapping
