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hey guys just wanted to know if this would fit my this fits my engine because I've had issues with other parts if anybody could help me out. My Engine number is 14016379 corvette (1979 L48 corvette C3) so if they fit i can order them as soon as possible thank you guys.
the items i want to order: ( Stage 3 Master Engine Rebuild Overhaul Kit for 1967-1979 Chevrolet SBC 350 5.7L) from ebay they include all these: Rod Bearings: CB663P
Main Bearings: MS909P
Lifters: HA817
Camshaft: MC1991
Type: Hydraulic Flat
Interchange Part Number: small block chevy 5.7 2 piece rear seal hp rv camshaft lifter double roller timing set flat top pistons rings bearings gaskets oil pump
Cam Bearings: CH8
Timing Set: 3023
Freeze Plugs: MPE100R
Piston Rings: E2M139
Gasket Set: 30-1000
Pistons: H345DCP
Oil Pump: M55
Manufacturer Part Number: ECH350MK
Brand: AMS Racing
Fitment Type: Performance/Custom
Manufacturer Warranty: Unspecified Length
No, do not buy that kit. How you know that you need new pistons? What if the bearings need to be oversized, or maybe the rings? It seems you are intent on a full rebuild, this is fine but the block needs to be fully dissembled, cleaned up, and then checked out. Are you capable of measuring the bores and journals? If not then you need to find a machine shop to clean up the block and bores and journals and tell you what the measurements are. Only then do you have the info necessary to start buying parts.
Looked it up, at least name brand parts. Look, do you really want an RV cam in your Corvette engine? Replace what needs replaced, send your Qjet off to Lars and reinstall the engine. Unless you are wanting a bunch more performance, then you simply buy a crate engine and install it with a free flowing exhaust system. Price wise it will be about the same and the engine will have already ran.
Last edited by ratflinger; Feb 5, 2024 at 09:49 AM.
There are a couple of things I don't like......the 3023 timing set which is not a true-roller set.....the gasket kit which comes with unknown head gasket and intake gasket that still allows the nasty heat riser port.
I use King bearings too as they are of higher quality and less $$$.......
Get it spec'd out first.......the pistons choice and camshaft are not too bad.....that is a L-82 cam copy......
Those type of kits are convenient kits. Meaning everything you will need is right there in front of you and often cheaper than buying individually.
However, usually with the discount is the poorer quality than name brand and sometimes you are paying for parts you don't need.
My advice to you is to buy rebuild parts in stages or phases. Such as everything you need for an assembled short-block.
Then later on you can buy an upper gasket set such as Intake, Valve Cover, Timing Cover gaskets etc.
Most of us are loyal to FelPro. Seldom does one hear of a complaint about FelPro.
You can snoop around on Summit racing site. Type in your yr, make, model, Gen-1 engine.
Look for engine components on the left of page, then gaskets.
Under that stock Intake you will see a steel pan. You should drill the rivets out and drop it. All kinds of nasty stuff inside there. Most of us do not reinstall it.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Feb 6, 2024 at 08:33 AM.
I'm going to jump on the bandwagon as to, Do NOT buy that kit! Get your engine completely disassembled. Then after much mic' ing and measuring. Then, and only then start ordering parts.
new pistons? What size? STD bore, .010 over? .030 over?
crank and rod bearings? Standard? Undersize?
the list goes on.
Under that stock Intake you will see a steel pan. You should drill the rivets out and drop it. All kinds of nasty stuff inside there. Most of do not reinstall it.
What is the purpose on the "steel pan" on the bottom of the intake manifold (heat or splash shield)? I remember wondering, when I rebuilt the engine 8 years ago.
This is the first I have read about discarding it.
Thanks,
Steve
The research I did several years ago on that pan on the bottom side of the intake manifold is to help disperse the heat away from the carburetor, to prevent the evaporation of gasoline. I had removed mine back in the late 90’s but held onto it. When I replaced my heads in 2017 I reinstalled it because of the research. I can’t state with scientific data but I believe it does help having it back on.
The research I did several years ago on that pan on the bottom side of the intake manifold is to help disperse the heat away from the carburetor, to prevent the evaporation of gasoline. I had removed mine back in the late 90’s but held onto it. When I replaced my heads in 2017 I reinstalled it because of the research. I can’t state with scientific data but I believe it does help having it back on.
It actually shields the oil from the hot exhaust heat riser crossover, which is what it covers.....so as not to heat up the oil......the port under the intake is wide open to hot exhaust gas and is one of the worst things on these engines from back then......just terrible, especially in Summer Heat.....the heat riser adds almost 100 degrees to the carb base pad......
If you use a 1204 Fel-Pro intake gasket to block the crossover......you can throw it away......better yet.....put a 2101 Performer intake on it and lose the shield, egr, heat riser and about 25 lbs....and gain a few ponies........
Thanks, great information and timing, I am getting ready to pull the manifold (I can't take the burnt paint look) and use the Fel-Pro 1204 gaskets only this time install with the crossover blocked!
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Pull the engine, strip it and bring it, the main caps and the crank to a machine shop. Have them bake/clean it, measure your bores and have the crank polished and oil clearances measured. Then have them check the cylinders for concentricity top to bottom and then have them tell you what size pistons you will need and if it just needs a hone or a bore. Same with the crank. Then you can buy bearings. Buy trimetal not bimetal unless you want to do this twice. I like King and havent had an issue with them but my last go round with Clevite cost me a lot of money for my rebuild...new rods, new crank, new bearings, new seals, machine shop labor....
Using trimetal bearings in a street engine goes directly against the advice of King Bearing. Bimetal bearings have the ability to embed foreign particles in the oil as it passes thru the bearing/journal space, but trimetal lacks this ability. King says trimetal is suitable only for race engines which are torn down regularly.
Using trimetal bearings in a street engine goes directly against the advice of King Bearing. Bimetal bearings have the ability to embed foreign particles in the oil as it passes thru the bearing/journal space, but trimetal lacks this ability. King says trimetal is suitable only for race engines which are torn down regularly.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Yes and anyone dumb enough to put a bimetal bearing on a big block that has 500 hp like I did believing their bullshit will have to rebuild their engine again like I did. IF you are going to build it, use the best. If its good enough to race its good enough for me. IF you think using a piece of **** component that is soft enough to absorb dirt is going to last at 500 hp or above then you get what you deserve. AND DONT USE CLEVITE IF YOU WANT TO HAVE A HIGH HP CAR LAST.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
He can just reuse the old parts with just reringing it but it wouldnt last as long as he would like..... I took an old block and had to cut the carbon ring and worn cylinder off the top of the cylinders just to get the pistons out. Used a 3 leg hone to get the cylinders mostly round and square top to bottom. She got everything new except the crank just to see what performane i could get. It worked but wasnt nearly as strong as it would have been with a properly machine block...
Do it right the first time, then you only need to do it once
I'm going to jump on the bandwagon as to, Do NOT buy that kit! Get your engine completely disassembled. Then after much mic' ing and measuring. Then, and only then start ordering parts.
new pistons? What size? STD bore, .010 over? .030 over?
crank and rod bearings? Standard? Undersize?
the list goes on.
You need to disassemble and mike out the engine before buying a lot of that stuff.
Engine parts replacement
