81 C3 Exterior Progress
MY garage spray booth
My Garage Spray Booth
More of my Garage Spray Booth
Sealer Complete
Base Coat Complete
Base Coat Complete
1st Coat of Clear
The Finished Product
The Finished Product
Side by Side. The first day at it's new home and the present day.
Last edited by BRANDON43; Mar 25, 2024 at 06:40 AM.





They all look good in photos.
I can post up photos of the horrific job that was done on my car and in these little photos everyone will say it looks great.
None the less. If your runs and debris are in the final clear coat, those can be wet sanded/polished out.
Mostly it looks great in these little photos!
Nice color!
It is hard to sand a 20 mil thick run without going through the 3-5 mil clear around it even with a block.
if the clear is cured and sounds as though it will be in a week... mix up a small amount of metal glaze (fine final coat body filler that uses a peroxide hardener) and spread a very thin coat over the run... let it cure, start blocking with some 600 grit wet sand paper... as the metal glaze is starting to thin out and show the run switch to 1500 to finish it down till the metal glaze is gone, the metal glaze will protect the paint around the run and allow you to block sand it down evenly till the run is gone without seeing it down the road.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts





What should I do differently, well I would paint the vehicle first before anything is installed and not try to complete it all in a weekend.
much like the corvette it could be painted in sections (front and back) as they don't actually connect with the paint finish. To avoid running out of air i based and cleared in sections over two days, same can be done with the C3 corvette as the front and rear of the car don't connect with a painted suface with the doors open... just a tought.
you still want to apply base color across the panels to assure color match if its metallic but can be cleared in sections without running out of air or long waits for the compressor to carch up.
the smaller compressor and tank can be done especially wth the right (low volume) gun and if you can break up the clearing job in sections, if you take on the project best of luck.
I personally use Devilbiss DV1 guns which will run well on low CFM but they are very expensive, i would perssonally try to borrow a good devilbiss, Sata, Iwata etc gun over just buying a cheap one (if you were close I would let you borrow them) might even consider looking on offer up or something for a good used gun even if for one application, 3/8 air fitting will help also.
the one thing your concerned with is laying out the clear or single stage with enough atomization to not get large orange peel, runs, dry etc... the section clearing could fix all that... smaller tip and needle will help... no bigger than 1.4
the OP did it and the right way, car looks great so it can be done













