'75 All U-Joint Replacement: Guide?

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Apr 29, 2024 | 04:15 PM

vetteman061

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'75 All U-Joint Replacement: Guide?

I have a '75 and I need to replace all the u joints in the halfshafts and driveshaft. My question is, is there a generally preferred write up about this somewhere? In the past, when I've looked for insight on certain projects there's lots of advice, but most people usually agree that there's one or two articles/writeups in particular that are the best, or standard. For example, when I was researching timing and vacuum advance, there were two particular articles that were considered the best writeups to refer to. Does anyone have a link ot that for the half shafts and or propeller shaft u joint replacement.

I have read so far that I must be careful not to bend or warp the flanges in a vice when removing the ujoints. I'm looking for thorough articles that anyone might know if that is good to help me avoid some of the pitfalls.

Thanks,
Brandon

Apr 29, 2024 | 05:58 PM

interpon

Le Mans Master

Joined: Jun 2019

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From: Indiana

Mine if helpful, and advice i got..enjoy, and i bent one until i learned
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...anual-l82.html

Also see this just posted by @GTR1999
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...t-flanges.html

Apr 29, 2024 | 09:09 PM

vetteman061

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Thank you, I appreciate it. I inherited two vettes from my father. This '75 hasn't been driven in 15 years, so I'm working through getting it on the road.

May 2, 2024 | 08:28 AM

hdeyong

Racer

Joined: Nov 2019

Posts: 336

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From: Canadian living in southern France

I just did all of mine, and would recommend a couple of things.
Soak everything with penetrating oil 2 or 3 times before you start. It will help everything come apart easier, and seemed to make the UJ cups more co-operative coming out.
Except in one case, when I had a really tight one, and my UJ tool bent the flange. I got a new flange, and that was that.
When putting the half shafts back in, it will be hard to get the U-bolt clamps to start, and I used a load tie-down strap with a ratchet to pull the trailing arm in a bit. Problem solved.
I used lock washers on the flange bolts, and like many others, have had no problems.
Use quality parts, and unless you have more than 400 HP, use greasable joints, they'll last forever..
Don't rush.

May 2, 2024 | 09:47 AM

vetteman061

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Thanks for the advice. I've been soaking everything in penetrating oil, but things are stuck tightly together with rust. I currently have another thread on the issue, but I believe I'm going to have to cut the u bolt straps.

May 2, 2024 | 09:32 PM

4-vettes

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From: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia

2025 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified

2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified

2022 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified

Cruise-In VIII Veteran

Quote:

Originally Posted by hdeyong

Use quality parts, and unless you have more than 400 HP, use greasable joints, they'll last forever..

Mate, how long have you had a C3?
I've replaced more U joints over the years than I can remember! They Definitely don't last forever!

May 2, 2024 | 10:48 PM

GTR1999

Tech Contributor

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From: Connecticut, USA

greaseable joints are weaker than solids. Both can be broken. My usa made greaseable joints with 18k miles and no abuse broke in half shifting at 3500 RPM with a 250 hp 350

May 4, 2024 | 07:53 PM

drwet

Melting Slicks

Joined: Dec 2009

Posts: 3,233

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From: Thunder Bay

If you use greasable u-joints (and I recommend you do), make sure the zerk fitting is under compression on acceleration. Putting the joint in backwards is a sure way to see one break.