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Looking for suggestions on clutch kits. Stock LT-1 with M20.
Zip has a kit for < $190 and is running a 10% off this weekend. For around $235 i can get a McLeod “street level” kit.
Looking to get the clutch working like new.
did same clutch, so far so good.
link below on mine but a couple tips i did.
- buy a non magnetic bushing, toss one in kit
- solvent clean the steel parts many times until white rag clean. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...se-79-l82.html
Last edited by interpon; May 26, 2024 at 11:41 AM.
Just bought a McLeod Street Pro from SST. They are having a "scratch and dent" sale on previously returned but still good clutches. They will have scratches in the paint or maybe witness marks from being bolted on. It was worth it for me as I got $100 off regular price. Should be here in a day or two.
I had already bought a LUK 11" but will try to return it. LUK is a decent inexpensive HD replacement but the McLeod deal was just too good to pass up.
[QUOTE=stingr69;1607841775]Just bought a McLeod Street Pro from SST. They are having a "scratch and dent" sale on previously returned but still good clutches. They will have scratches in the paint or maybe witness marks from being bolted on. It was worth it for me as I got $100 off regular price. Should be here in a day or two.
[QUOTE]
Makes one wonder why they have so many returned “good” clutches that they need to have such a sale.
Yes, this thread is what sent me down the path of getting the McLeod instead of the Zip. From what I can tell the Zip is a Valero unit. I’ll probably stick with the McLeod.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
McLeod has never failed me...go with the next higher HP rating above what you have. THe best thing about McLeod is all the pressure plates are the same for single disc, the only difference is the clutch disc. You can buy them alone from Summit to upgrade HP as you go. It saves a ton of money. Lars did a write up on them and he came to the same conclusion
McLeod has never failed me...go with the next higher HP rating above what you have. THe best thing about McLeod is all the pressure plates are the same for single disc, the only difference is the clutch disc. You can buy them alone from Summit to upgrade HP as you go. It saves a ton of money. Lars did a write up on them and he came to the same conclusion
From what I can tell, the street pro is the lowest level of that pressure plate. It’s going to be a bone stock LT-1, was hoping to get by with the street level to keep the clutch pedal pressure as low as possible, but that may not be enough.
I used the McLeod Super Street Pro 75221 (a little overkill for my application) and quite honestly, I really could not tell the difference in clutch pedal effort compared to the OE clutch it replaced. Good luck with whichever you use.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
The clutch effort is the same in all mcleod single disc clutches....As I said it's the disc that is the difference. It's the compounds that create the friction. The pressure plates are good to atleast 600 hp no matter which one you have.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Had the same conversation with them when I tried to tell the difference between the three pressure plates I have...if you look there are no numbers on them
I kept buying the next higher clutch when I increased power
Unless you plan on racing, go with a stock clutch (read inexpensive). I had a stock clutch in my other Chevy, my young son at the time abused the hell out of it and it started slipping. I replaced it with a ram clutch, which is bullet proof, but has very high effort and is a strain on the left leg which leaves me with regrets. I put a stock clutch in my '72 back in '15 and it's been fine and I'm sure my leg and my Z bar appreciate it.
I put a LUK clutch behind my rebuilt L36 in 2009 and it has been handling 505 torque just fine. Pedal effort is minimal and no vibration. I don't dump it too often, nor shift without lifting like we used to do back in the day. We did make sure the flywheel was surfaced and the bell housing centered with a dial indicator. Is there some reason why not to use them? Looking for the receipt, but seem to remember not expensive...$125 or so?