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Cranks but doesn't start

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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 04:04 PM
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Default Cranks but doesn't start

Need some help to find my Spark problem.

A little background, I have a 76 Stingray that had the motor replaced before I purchased it, but it has the same basic setup as stock w/ 350 carb motor. The car was running great until it just died on me while driving. The first time this happened my "bat" wire to the distributor had managed to slip off the distributor, quick easy fix, I reconnected it and it fired back up perfectly. About a week later the same thing happened, the car died while driving (working perfect in between). However this time the same brown wire was not just off but had fallen all the way to the engine block and I'm afraid that it must have blown a fuse or similar somewhere.

The car cranks over just fine, but won't start. I've tested the wiring and at the fuse box in the cabin of the car the Ignition on wire (light brown) has 12V w/ ignition on, and none with ignition off. But the brown wire in the engine bay that runs from the fuse block has no power with ignition on or off.

I have looked the best I can and can't find a fuse but have been reading online that there is an inline fuse somewhere in the area near the fuse block. I'm not sure if this would be what I'm looking for or something else similar that I'm overlooking. I'm open to any and all ideas. I was also hoping that someone would have photos or videos of the inline fuse if this is what I'm looking for. Thanks ahead of time for the help.


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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 04:21 PM
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If you are referring to the wires to the distributor cap, under the coil dust cover, I believe the brown wire is the Tach lead from the Tach Filter.
The hot lead should be pink.

Somethings not right with your harness. It should be plastic clip terminals making it impossible for the wire to fall off. They lock in place.
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 04:35 PM
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Replace the module in the dist
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 04:47 PM
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While nowhere man may be correct. I think testing things before just throwing parts at it would make sense. As your looking at the distributor leaning over the drivers side fender. There are 2 wires on the cap closest to you. The one on the left, is the tach wire, the one on the right, dark pink, may look like faded red. Thick wire, is the power wire. Do you get 12V + on that wire?
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 05:35 PM
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That part is cheap and very easy thing to replace that is a very common failure part of HEI
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Old Jun 10, 2024 | 09:34 AM
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I appreciate all the suggestions, I ran a new wire from the distribution block to the distributor and it worked. I'm guessing I had some sort of inline fuse that went out that I couldn't find, and I'm not going to rip open the entire harness just for one wire so I just bought a new inline fuse for this wire. I read about the resistance wire running less volts and tested both hot wires. My new wire runs at 12-12.7v and the resistance wire runs 8.5-9.5v, so I think I'm setup properly now. I had to go buy a soldering kit to get this finished up, haven't used one of those in a while.

After more digging I know why I'm having so many electrical issues, someone re-wired this car and decided to use whatever wire was laying around. I have all sorts of colors that are inaccurate, and I have quite a few connections that have been disconnected and just laying around the engine bay and cabin (under the dash). I was just thinking of cleaning up some of them but after seeing the "Bubba" wiring so far I think I'm just going to bite the bullet and re-wire the whole damn thing this winter. I'm definitely going to wait as I want to enjoy the car this summer and I know it's going to take me several weeks to re-wire.
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Old Jun 10, 2024 | 04:45 PM
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buy the oem plug and play harness and you can have it done in a few days
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