I do not know but i have to buy new batterys for my rides it seems every year! And as the cost have doubled in the last couple of years and fresh battery's are harder to find on the shelves has any one rejuvenated there battery's on there Corvettes?

 

You posted in detailing section will move you here.

 

How do you rejuvenate an automotive battery? When they go bad I just replace them.

 

Are you killing them in a year? Get a disconnect.

 

When I still lived in the States, I installed a 2 year inexpensive Walmart battery in my 77 Corvette. It lasted a mere 13 years. Then, now living in Australia with side post battery's in limited supply. I purchased a AC Delco side post battery. That was over 7 years ago. Still just fine.
Begs to question. What are you doing?
I do not have a disconnect. Don't see a reason. And seldom put a charger on my car.

 

Don't most batteries have a 3 year replacement warranty??

 

Every year? Sounds like you have a small parasitic drain. How often do you drive your car? If it is a long while between rides, I agree with Bikespace, get a quick disconnect.

Another thought is that once completely drained some batteries recover better that others. I have found that the Optima spiral cell batteries do not recover well if drained. NAPA sells Legend battery which seems to recover much better than Optima.

Recharging assumes you have a battery charger. One with a “Refresh cycle” will help revive a battery if not too far gone.

 

Ibuy Blems for my vehicles from the local interstate location...$50 they typically last me 5 years or more though.
I did have a walmart branded johnson controls made battery in the vette which worked great despite being completely killed and recharged but it finally developed a bad cell.

desulphating chargers do help extend the life of batteries.

 

When Battery's were serviceable a single Bayer aspirin in each cell would usually extend the life a little longer.
On my CETK MXS 5.0 charger it has a Recondition mode I use every so often, NON AGM battery.

 

No, the warranty's changed drastically a couple of years ago. Napa screwed me a couple of years ago when they retroactively changed their warranty. I was 3 weeks past the 2 yr free replacement date, and the pro-rated part of the warranty should have given me a good discount on a new one. NO, they would not honor the pro-rated warranty and wanted full price to replace it.
At the time (2 yrs ago) most batterys had a 2 yr exchange warranty. No longer prorated for longer times. Some, did have a 3 yr exchange. AC Delco through the Chevy dealer offered a 40 mo, non prorated, exchange for a good price. It seems that the dealers offer a low price for the battery, but charge $160 to install it. I changed it my self in 15mins in the parking lot.

 

Walmart Everstart Maxx still have a 3 year free replacement with a 2 year prorate.
They also have a round sticker on top with the month & year it was made...just pick out the newest.

The only car batteries I buy..

 

I do the same... and should battery fail before he 3 years are up they are an easy exchange

 

If they're dying in a yr, they're either super-cheap, or they're being 'murdered'...or they're not actually 'dead' you just 'think' they're dead. First, stop murdering your battery...lol and practice good battery hygeine. The basic fundamentals on making a FLA battery last are pretty well known. 1) Just don't ever let them run flat...or even low. If they sit while low, the plates sulfate. That coats the plates with a non-permeable coating that inhibits electron transfer. 2) Don't over-charge such that it boils out the electrolyte. So, don't charge over 10A. I usually get about 10 yrs out of a good quality FLA battery. And I've gotten 14years out of an industrial FLA battery.

So, make sure your car isn't discharging (or hook up a disconnect), and the alt is not overcharging (boiling out the water/electrolyte).

#3) Give your battery a 'shake' every once in a while. Maybe the electrolyte has settled out and it's not dead, but 'seems' dead. And also, maybe you aren't being outsmarted by a so-called "Smart charger" which often won't charge up a low battery (go get an old analog charger...bring the 'dead' battery 'up' on a super-low charge...then transition to your 'smart' charger). I just brought up a pretty new so-called "dead" Ryobi battery someone gave me which they deemed 'junk' in their words. Works perfect now! Most smart chargers aren't very 'smart' ..some suck! Don't let a FLA battery sit on a concrete floor (an old wives tale)....but it's not....b/c the cooler floor will cause stratification of the electrolyte, meaning it'll 'seem' dead ...or real low. Put on a 2x6. I always give my batteries a vigorous rocking in their trays (I don't bolt them down) ..before I charge them. During normal daily driving the rocking keeps the electrolyte mixed.

Those are just good fundamentals. I used to work for a company that owned a big fla battery company...

.

 

I have used delco but the last one was ever start. It is athree year going on 4 with battery pal slow charger built in. The problem is i had was after warming car up the restart was slow battery lost its ump but showed 12.50 volts but under load would not crank for ant length of time. Would new acid give it a longer crank time or are there any other options to extend life? Thanks for any comments.

 

There's only a couple battery companies which make ALL the replacement batteries. Really two companies make the bulk of them. It's not like there are 10...or even 5. Pretty much 2 make most. They just put different stickers for different stores. Look up who makes the battery you buy. There are different grades...Sucky/Good/Premium...which you can tell by their weight. Avoid the sucky ones. Compare an el-cheapo's weight against a Premium battery weight. More (and new) Pb/electrolyte/support plates, etc.

Could also be your starter. Maybe the brushes are becoming worn, or the copper contacts within the solenoid have become eroded away -- ****-poor electrical transfer (there's a small spark upon each 'start'). Or the field/armature coils are weak??? Or battery cables/cable-ends are weak. Or the starter could be high amp draw under load. Watch some videos how to test.