Muncie Tranny Problems
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 49
Likes: 6
From: Elko, Nevada
Muncie Tranny Problems
Hey there!
I just installed a Muncie 4 speed on my 81’ as the t-10 blew up on me a couple months ago. However with everything installed I’m running into a problem with the shifting. I can’t seem to get reverse, 1st or 3rd gear to engage. And I’ve tried looking at the linkage but there’s no binding between my shifter linkage and I’m not sure what else can be the problem. I know it’s not the clutch because 4th was able to slowly engage the car forward. I could really use some help. Thank you!
I just installed a Muncie 4 speed on my 81’ as the t-10 blew up on me a couple months ago. However with everything installed I’m running into a problem with the shifting. I can’t seem to get reverse, 1st or 3rd gear to engage. And I’ve tried looking at the linkage but there’s no binding between my shifter linkage and I’m not sure what else can be the problem. I know it’s not the clutch because 4th was able to slowly engage the car forward. I could really use some help. Thank you!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,175
Likes: 3,987
From: Connecticut, USA
Reverse is the only gear to actually move to engage. 1 & 3 are on different hubs. I would be looking at the shifter linkage adjustment again as long as you checked the Muncie before you installed it in the car. If you have a lift, you can remove the linkage at the trans and see if the gears engage by a wrench.
Old Pro Solo Guy
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 8,094
Likes: 4,447
From: Marlton NJ
Well,
One option would be to disconnect the shifter arms, and shift the trans with a wrench. Adjustable or channel locks. BTDT.
Make sure all the gears work as they should. You should feel a strong click.
Then move the shifter and make sure the rods move as they should.
Then make sure the angles of the shifted trans selectors and the shifter rods match.
I forget whether the shifter linkages goes down to the trans, or up. They can easily get put on upside down.
The 1x2" selector lever, all by itself, needs to lock on to the trans selector **** very solidly.
Something should be obvious by that point.
Maybe someone knows if there is any difference in the shifter selectors on the trans between Muncies and S-T10s.
One option would be to disconnect the shifter arms, and shift the trans with a wrench. Adjustable or channel locks. BTDT.
Make sure all the gears work as they should. You should feel a strong click.
Then move the shifter and make sure the rods move as they should.
Then make sure the angles of the shifted trans selectors and the shifter rods match.
I forget whether the shifter linkages goes down to the trans, or up. They can easily get put on upside down.
The 1x2" selector lever, all by itself, needs to lock on to the trans selector **** very solidly.
Something should be obvious by that point.
Maybe someone knows if there is any difference in the shifter selectors on the trans between Muncies and S-T10s.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 956
Likes: 443
From: Dutchess county New York
On my '69 M20 with the linkages disconnected I could easily move the levers ( that are pointed up ) with my hand and they gave a very positive 'click' in each direction. 3/4 are the ones closest to the front, then 1/2 and reverse gear is in the back.
The transmission shift levers have upper and lower holes - the bottom ones being for the 'short shift option'. I much prefer that and so do many who make the change. It's like a rifle bolt now, not a trip around the barn.
Cotter pins can work but I used the proper G-clips it's supposed to come with and they hold the linkages in place correctly, the cotter pins don't seem to. The adjustments aren't really very much and I assume cotter pins must make enough of a change to matter. Small, weird but that's what I found and my life improved when I used the g-clips. I assume GM had a reason for using them.
On older shifter you could use a feeling gauge to lock it into it's neutral position. I think the newer ones may be a round hole, so a drill bit or screwstick might work.I wound up pulling my shifter and squaring it in a vice. Getting it in and out while laying on my back was not impossible but cost me a lot of ibuprofen.
Hope this helps.
The transmission shift levers have upper and lower holes - the bottom ones being for the 'short shift option'. I much prefer that and so do many who make the change. It's like a rifle bolt now, not a trip around the barn.
Cotter pins can work but I used the proper G-clips it's supposed to come with and they hold the linkages in place correctly, the cotter pins don't seem to. The adjustments aren't really very much and I assume cotter pins must make enough of a change to matter. Small, weird but that's what I found and my life improved when I used the g-clips. I assume GM had a reason for using them.
On older shifter you could use a feeling gauge to lock it into it's neutral position. I think the newer ones may be a round hole, so a drill bit or screwstick might work.I wound up pulling my shifter and squaring it in a vice. Getting it in and out while laying on my back was not impossible but cost me a lot of ibuprofen.
Hope this helps.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 7,493
Likes: 1,502
From: Little Rock AR
The shift levers that bolt to the shift shafts exiting the transmission must match the vintage of your new Muncie. Muncies have 2 different style of shafts depending on year of original application and the tranny levers are not compatible with each other. Might not be compatible with the T-10 tranny either but I am not sure there. All the shifter parts & pieces need to be right... and match the transmission... and match the car model.