Hi all,

Looking for recommendations for who makes a good rag joint. Considering pulling my steering box out for a refresh and I hear some of the rag joints are too rubbery compared to the originals.

Thanks!

 

Last year I put one in from Bairs in PA. I'm no rag joint expert but zero problems thus far.
Pat

 

I don't think it's the quality of the joint it's the hardware that comes with the new one. Generally you get common bolts and you're better off using the hardware that's there and If it's original you'll see a difference as the OEM were shoulder style bolts. Somewhere in the stickies there are Jim Shea docs that explain that in detail.

 

The hardware might be junk. But it's the quality of the joint itself that is the real problem. Bairs is a good company and I would imagine that they are selling the best replacement they can get there hands on. But it's still not like the original with the wire mesh.

 

Reading an old post from Jim, he says the repro rags are too rubbery. The originals used something like 7 layers of mesh and the new ones use 4. I dis count 7 on the pics of some vendors. I just do not trust that the pictures represent what you get. Ive seen too much of that lately.

Thanks again guys. I’ll call Bairs they’re very helpful on the phone. And I do plan to reuse as much of the original hardware as possible, generally do that for everything I redo.

 

When I smoked a rag joint ..................and you want the best replacement / the OEM's are available from time to time on ebay. Less rubber, more rag & of course perfect specs & fit. I recently paid $250 in the original GM box

 

This is a forum link from 2021 when I was in need of a new rag joint.

Click here & follow >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ast-night.html

 

great info. Thanks!

 

Another issue with older rag joints is they can 'look' good, but the holes can become egged-out and there can be 'movement' under torque. If you have it off the car, you can clamp one end in a vise and turn on the other end (back/fourth) with a big pliers ...and test it for movement.

If you're crafty, have strong DIY skills, some tools ...and don't mind putting some work into your existing unit, you could rebuild the one you have and have a pretty good strong unit. The Dorman kit (link below) should work but, measure for compatability before you buy it (they have different applications for different vehicles). The advantage of the kit is the rag joint is as thick ...I think it's even a tad thicker than OEM. At least the one I received. The material itself is pretty robust.

I rebuilt the unobtanium flexible coupler for an older GM pickup with the same/similar Dorman kit, a number of yrs ago. What I did in that case was make new pins on a lathe which fit real tight in the joint and in the metal ends of the flexible coupler pieces. Used most of the original pieces that were on the original rag joint. Then threaded with jam nuts and some Locktite. Pulled them and sinched the rubber part down tight. It fit well and looked great. And it's held up well for the past 6 years. I can't speak of the included hardware..it might work ok. My application was similar but slightly different than a Corvette or GM car. I just needed the rag itself..and I thought it was high quality. Be sure to work out a ground strap if you do it. The original ones had metal screening material inside to ground the column and steering box.

IDK if it's better than a stamped/riveted one, but it's another option out there.
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-31002-Power-Steering-Coupling/dp/B000CO77T6

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You can also add a DIY 12 ga. "Jumper" from the front and rear halves of the new/repaired rag joint to make sure the entire steering shaft has a good ground/not an intermittent ground path.

 

Here we are. Box is going up to Gary today and I can now see what to do about the rag joint. Zero wear on the pins is a good si


gn

 

There've been a few C3 forum members over the years who have had old original ones break on the road. Technically the two shafts shouldn't come apart, but they did and it resulted in a scary no-steer situation.

 

I have this rag joint
135.00 shipped

 

O'Reilly sells one for $54.00. Lares 202 rag joint. I just saw this a few days ago.

 

Sent you a PM.

 

I’d second using a rag joint from Bairs. Put one in last year, direct fit, great quality, no issues, working great.

 

you will not regret sending it to Gary. I sent mine to him last year and now my steering is the best it's been since I got the car. he will send you pictures of every step in the rebuild process.
Pat

 

I’m excited to get it back. I drove it up and we must have spent 2 hours talking all about boxes, diffs and trailing arms all while he was tearing mine down to show me the insides. Great guy!

It’s unfortunate he’s booked into next spring for diffs.

 

Check your car's idler arm too. If its not tight as you yank up/down vigorously, order a new one. It'll also help tighten up the steering ...and anything else in the steering/suspension which seems worn ...like the ball stud on your cars P/S control valve.

Love to hear your impressions of the steering after you get the rebuilt box installed.

 

yessir. Went through everything. All good. I had replaced most everything a while back. I will have to do the a-arm bushings over the winter. I want to drive it a bit before winter.

I hadn’t planned on doing any front end work as this whole thing started out as new brake calipers and rear spring. Because the master cylinder is still out. I kept staring at this old box with dry grease all around it and decided do it all now.

Will definitely post impressions. I can say I had over 3”-4” of play. I’m looking forward to nicer steering and confident that gtr1999 will do it right!