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Making progress working off the backlog of parts that need to be blasted and powder coated. I got some 3" fiberglass tape and a silicone plug kit, so I knocked out some of the more complicated parts:
I wrapped the end of these and PC'd the rest.
I wrapped the tape around the spindles and used plugs for all the holes:
I think they came out pretty great.
Blasted and wiped clean
Tape over the openings and plugs in the holes
All done, though my taping wasn't perfect so they'll need some cleanup
Lastly, say goodbye to the frame in its current condition.
It's getting dropped at the powder coating shop on Sunday. They're going to blast it, then we'll stitch weld the frame a bit more, then they'll PC the whole thing. I should get it back just before or after Christmas.
Nice work on the coating work, those parts look professionally finished.
I remember how excited I was when I picked my frame up after it was coated.
Thanks, I'm super excited to see how it all turns out! I'm also dropping some larger parts that won't fit in my oven (sway bar, rear crossmember, radiator shroud and mount, etc), so I should be pretty close to "done with refinishing parts" when the frame comes back!
I have a few smaller things to do, but I'm starting to mix in POR-15 and painting with the powder coating. There are a few complicated parts to go (trailing arms, lift jack, shifter assembly) that will take more time and attention.
It’s also referred to as the Jim Shae Chevrolet Power Book.
There is a ton of great information regarding corvettes and how to improve and strengthen the chassis.
It will give you almost everything you need to stiffen the frame and improve handling.
You don’t need to have big horsepower to take advantage of all the improvements in handling and cornering.
If you start a new thread someone will have the on line link that you can download for free.
It’s also referred to as the Jim Shae Chevrolet Power Book.
There is a ton of great information regarding corvettes and how to improve and strengthen the chassis.
It will give you almost everything you need to stiffen the frame and improve handling.
You don’t need to have big horsepower to take advantage of all the improvements in handling and cornering.
If you start a new thread someone will have the on line link that you can download for free.
Thanks gents. I'm reading through the pdf, and I believe I understand the value of most of the items he recommends. I'm not looking to make a track monster, just a daily driver that can maybe do a longer trip or two. What's the goal of this mod, is it for improved reliability or to crank it up??
Basically, on a daily driver it will improve the handling by reducing flex throughout the frame.
Members have posted videos in the past showing how much flex and twist is actually in a stock frame.
You may never need it or be able to notice the difference just cruising down the straight highway, but if you want to occasionally push it a little on a nice winding road, you would notice the difference in handling.
Other things you can do is install solid engine mounts, install a spreader bar between the upper an arms and install solid rear differential bushings on the crossmember.
Do you need any of these.
No you don’t, but if you want to push it a bit through the twisties then you’ll be glad you did.
Basically, on a daily driver it will improve the handling by reducing flex throughout the frame.
Members have posted videos in the past showing how much flex and twist is actually in a stock frame.
You may never need it or be able to notice the difference just cruising down the straight highway, but if you want to occasionally push it a little on a nice winding road, you would notice the difference in handling.
Other things you can do is install solid engine mounts, install a spreader bar between the upper an arms and install solid rear differential bushings on the crossmember.
Do you need any of these.
No you don’t, but if you want to push it a bit through the twisties then you’ll be glad you did.
Thanks for that clarification. It's the first I've thought about this, and I don't have the parts to get it done in time to drop it at the powder coater. I'll have to see where I can get the parts, and see if the shop is ok waiting to do the work. Otherwise I'll have to let them PC the whole thing, then grind clean spots to weld the new parts and go back over with POR-15 or something.
Thanks for that clarification. It's the first I've thought about this, and I don't have the parts to get it done in time to drop it at the powder coater. I'll have to see where I can get the parts, and see if the shop is ok waiting to do the work. Otherwise I'll have to let them PC the whole thing, then grind clean spots to weld the new parts and go back over with POR-15 or something.
I’m sure the powder coater will be okay with the delay.
It only took a couple days for me to receive the gussets and there is a lot of welding to finish all the stitch welding.
Remember there is a top and bottom on the frame so you’re only seeing half of the work from the top side.
The solid differential bushings, the spreader bar and solid motor mounts don’t require any welding.
I purchased my rear differential bushings and spreader bar from Van Steel.
The solid motor mounts were from Moroso.
All bolt on with no welding required.
I’m sure the powder coater will be okay with the delay.
It only took a couple days for me to receive the gussets and there is a lot of welding to finish all the stitch welding.
Remember there is a top and bottom on the frame so you’re only seeing half of the work from the top side.
The solid differential bushings, the spreader bar and solid motor mounts don’t require any welding.
I purchased my rear differential bushings and spreader bar from Van Steel.
The solid motor mounts were from Moroso.
All bolt on with no welding required.
Ok, I'm sold. All of the input is great, and I've never been upset that I *didn't* skip a step...
I know it's been posted, but I can't remember where I read it:
I see the bushings and spreader bar from Van Steel and the solid motor mounts from Moroso.
Where did you get the gussets??
Dang, I wish that had been faster. I called Van Steel already, and that's going to end up saving me a lot of trial and error *and* costing me a bunch of money...
Doug,
Under race conditions (large tires, high HP, max corner loads), the stock frame could/would flex and crack. The Power book Frame reinforcements improved torsional rigidity which made handling much more consistent - and safer. The benefit on the street is that the '60s Corvette chassis ('50s technology) won't be near as sloppy as stock.
Doug,
Under race conditions (large tires, high HP, max corner loads), the stock frame could/would flex and crack. The Power book Frame reinforcements improved torsional rigidity which made handling much more consistent - and safer. The benefit on the street is that the '60s Corvette chassis ('50s technology) won't be near as sloppy as stock.
Thanks, I decided to complete the stitch welding along the frame and to add the gussets.
Speaking of, THIS looks like a good idea...
No frames were harmed during the filming of this dropoff...
THAT would be even scarier!! You can't see any of them, b/c all the straps are at the other end, holding the frame down and tight to the bed in the front, and holding it laterally in the middle of the bed just in front of the tailgate.
