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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
jig is the key...lots and lots of measuring. Others have done it and posted how they did it. Im sure there is enough info out there for you to do it. You might get lucky and find one in a birdcage you can cut out and swap over without a lot of fuss
Thanks for the recommendations guys, I've been doing a ton of research and signed up for a class to get me started. I realized that in order to do it properly I'll need to pull the front clip and firewall, so I think that'll be the next major project. I've ordered a new 5 in 1 tool, some longer chisels and a couple of wedges. The goal is to get both pulled by Thanksgiving, but so far I've been working on cleaning up the metal that's there now to get an idea of where the spot welds are.
Thanks for the recommendations guys, I've been doing a ton of research and signed up for a class to get me started. I realized that in order to do it properly I'll need to pull the front clip and firewall, so I think that'll be the next major project. I've ordered a new 5 in 1 tool, some longer chisels and a couple of wedges. The goal is to get both pulled by Thanksgiving, but so far I've been working on cleaning up the metal that's there now to get an idea of where the spot welds are.
Man that is nasty. I would be really worried with the amount of rust the frame has moved around more than just a little. So can make a jig off of a solid none rusted car and transfer to your project?
Welding thin sheet metal takes a fair amount practice. I like and use Miller welders gas only no flux. Practice on 16 gauge sheet metal. .030 wire at the most.
Just thought but locally there is a mobile welding service that does mig and tig welding at your place. Maybe its an option to use some one like that to do some pro welding?
You're doing great work! I just finished the windshield frame and lower corner repairs on my '71. I'm not a great welder and had some ugly welds, but they all grinded down to smooth metal! I wouldn't try to use that windshield frame, that's really bad! I have a rust free full windshield frame I bought from a donor, and didn't use because I just had to patch a couple of holes. I'd be happy to sell it to you for what I paid, save you a ton of time!
I like your spirit! You are taking on new challenges and learning new things. Looking at your body mount areas down in the kick panel wells, I’ve seen worse. Just looks like scaling down there. I could be wrong, but you may be lucky in that area. Great job and best wishes moving forward. You sure have done a lot so far. I bet it will look AMAZING once you are done.
Thanks for all the info everyone. I admit it was pretty frustrating when I saw it all, but I think I've come to terms with it. I feel like if I can tackle this then anything is possible. Like I said: I've never welded but I have done a ton of furniture-grade woodworking in the past so I'm confident in my ability to measure and pay attention to detail.
I've been watching a ton of videos and reading a lot. It's pretty intimidating, but I'm going to take a run at it. I've signed up for a couple of welding classes at a local maker-space, which should give me a good baseline and opportunity to practice. I think I'd rather try and potentially fail than not try and just pay someone. Worst case scenario I started learning to weld and have to pay a pro to do it after I mess it up.
@Arg0413 I'm interested in hearing about what you have, no reason to not put the parts to good use. Can you send me some pics and give me an idea of what you're looking for it?
General question: I think I'm more worried about getting the front clip back on properly w/o messing up my door spacing and hood. Am I way off base there?
I'll get some pics sent to you on the windshield frame, I need $200 for it, that's what I paid for it. I cut my fender corners off to access the lower windshield corners on the bird cage and weld in new metal from donor pieces. Yours are likely worse than mine and I would remove the front clip - but show us pics of the damage first so we can assess. Taking the clip off an bonding it back on is a PITA that I avoided. At the end of the day , do it if you need to and it's not the end of the world.
I'll get some pics sent to you on the windshield frame, I need $200 for it, that's what I paid for it. I cut my fender corners off to access the lower windshield corners on the bird cage and weld in new metal from donor pieces. Yours are likely worse than mine and I would remove the front clip - but show us pics of the damage first so we can assess. Taking the clip off an bonding it back on is a PITA that I avoided. At the end of the day , do it if you need to and it's not the end of the world.
Thanks, looking forward to seeing it, I'll PM you my email address if that's easier. Also, any idea what shipping will cost?
I really think removing the front clip is the best idea, even if it makes it 2x as hard. I'd rather go through the headache of removal and re-bonding than worry that there was more I didn't know. I also like the idea of taking off the firewall to clean it up and make sure there's nothing else hiding behind it. The whole thing is just messing with my build plan, b/c now I'm thinking I should pull the body before I remove the clip.
I took a few more pictures to show the rest of the windshield / frame.
First off, the two door mount pillars. They don't look perfect, but they also don't look horrible. I'm holding out hope they can be cleaned up and hopefully only need minor patching.
Then looking at the lower inside corners and supports, same story. From the interior they look like they could be ok, but I'll really know once I get the outside corners off and see what the other side of them looks like.
The front lower windshield doesn't seem to be that bad either. I'll clean it up once I get the firewall off, but I think there's a good chance I'll just be able to treat it and keep it.
Lastly, a closer look at the exterior lower corners. I don't like the look of either of them and I'm planning to replace them.
Dang, this is an advertisement for buying a sand blaster for our shops! Holy cow that is awesome!!!
Yeah, I'll say it's not exactly cheap but it's definitely worth it. I have no doubt that the cabinet, air filtration, and pedal (3 separate kits from Eastwood) have been paid for with the parts I'm not re-buying. The compressor is a big 80 gal unit from Dewalt that I got for my Christmas present, and I'm probably working off (or done) it's cost plus all the pex piping to hook up the garage too.
FYI....DEVCON INDUSTRIAL repair epoxy isn't cheap but you can use it like body filler to strengthen that frame after you blast it,
We used DEVCON on industrial components...it lasted longer/better than the metal it was applied to.
Just do not pile it on...put it on smoothly or you will have to use a die grinder to remove the lumps.
I emailed pics of the windshield frame . I don't know what it'd cost to ship , i'd guestimate $50 - 90 ? It's not heavy.
You don't know how bad the lower corners are until you open it up . If the damage goes down to the lower edge at the cowl then you need the clip and cowl removed to do it properly. Also , they do not make the corners for 69-72 , I had to use later ones. So I had to massage the metal to make it all fit, but it looks right and the windshield fit!
FYI....DEVCON INDUSTRIAL repair epoxy isn't cheap but you can use it like body filler to strengthen that frame after you blast it,
We used DEVCON on industrial components...it lasted longer/better than the metal it was applied to.
Just do not pile it on...put it on smoothly or you will have to use a die grinder to remove the lumps.
That’s some good info there. Wish I had something like that on a few projects over the years!
FYI....DEVCON INDUSTRIAL repair epoxy isn't cheap but you can use it like body filler to strengthen that frame after you blast it,
We used DEVCON on industrial components...it lasted longer/better than the metal it was applied to.
Just do not pile it on...put it on smoothly or you will have to use a die grinder to remove the lumps.
Thanks for the tip. Making sure I'm understanding what you're talking about, are you referring to the overall vehicle frame or the windshield frame?
Originally Posted by Arg0413
I emailed pics of the windshield frame . I don't know what it'd cost to ship , i'd guestimate $50 - 90 ? It's not heavy.
You don't know how bad the lower corners are until you open it up . If the damage goes down to the lower edge at the cowl then you need the clip and cowl removed to do it properly. Also , they do not make the corners for 69-72 , I had to use later ones. So I had to massage the metal to make it all fit, but it looks right and the windshield fit!
Thanks for the pictures. It looks like the top and both upper corners are good, but I can't tell if the side frames are complete or cut off at the lower? I've found repros for later (on CSC Corvette, are they any good?), and it looks like I'm going to have to do that same messaging...
Thanks for the tip. Making sure I'm understanding what you're talking about, are you referring to the overall vehicle frame or the windshield frame?
Thanks for the pictures. It looks like the top and both upper corners are good, but I can't tell if the side frames are complete or cut off at the lower? I've found repros for later (on CSC Corvette, are they any good?), and it looks like I'm going to have to do that same messaging...
The frame I have is cut at the very bottom , so would have to cut windshield off at base and weld this one into the same place. You would need to make a jog to ensure it's properly aligned and fitted.
