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car has spent more than a few days in the shop… trying to sort out the rear brakes dragging / squeaking without brake pedal. Drive it for 50 miles and it start squeaking. Never use the ebrake but I hear rumors about trouble on these.
everything in the entire car’s
brake system is brand new, rotors, calipers , master cylinder, proportioning valve, ebrake springs etc…
Yes.. the entire brake system was replaced….all rubber under the car actually. A LOT of money in this one…bought it recently restored as you see it here and am still working on it…lol
Just wrapping my brake repair up as we speak. Both rear brakes locked up, I was able to pump the brake pedal and get em to release. Last time it locked, it wouldn't release. Had to cut my rear hose to release to get it home.
Proportion valve requires a tool to hold the valve in place while bleeding. If they are pumping the brake pedal this may be the issue. Biggest give away is the lack of brake fluid coming out the lines when bleeding, comparing the front to back. I used the motive pump to Bleed it without any issues.
If they replaced rotors, that might be an issue because they require shimming. And could possibly be the emergency brakes.
Very good stuff here….
unfortunately … the majority of work, as in new stuff was done before my purchase. .. like rotors being replaced etc.
this new shop here in town is the recipient of someone else’s work…hate when that happens. As a life long drag racer and team mgr , I have been the victim of this.
i will golfing back, hat in hand with this “ casting of doubt” on previous work. I will pay the price, bu just want this solved.
i am building a new shop as I type this…so I am without my own resources. Writing checks, but grateful I can.
cant wait to get this on my own lift!
The brakes on C3s are very susceptible to encountering issues with excessive runout, one of them being the pads rubbing against the pistons and calipers if the rotor isn’t spinning true, causing the squeaking noise you’re mentioning.
The fact that the rotors were replaced only makes me think that’s the reason even more. The rotors were turned with the hubs at the factory. Changing them out without shimming them to spec would definitely make a difference in runout.
I’d put a dial caliper on the very edge on the face of the rotor then find your total runout. You want to be at least under .005”, but the lower the better.
Using a small amount of brake lubricant on the back of the pads can help as well.
Thank you…I was thinking a possible runout issue as well and the new shop assumed “ all good” cuz all new etc…
under 5 thou it is.. will be first thing I mention when going back in on this. I’ll mention brake lubricant in the conversation as well. I hope I’m still friends with these guys after this …whew.
After checking every box and confirming all is new and now trued up...the culprit is the new (as everything) ebrake is not playing well with it's hub.
The temporary fix is to reengage the ebrake (this centers it?) and release.
As with everything on this car...all new and correct .. but needs some tweaking, looking to find someone that re arcs these ebrake shoes (a lost art?) .. or maybe not...lol
After checking every box and confirming all is new and now trued up...the culprit is the new (as everything) ebrake is not playing well with it's hub.
The temporary fix is to reengage the ebrake (this centers it?) and release.
As with everything on this car...all new and correct .. but needs some tweaking, looking to find someone that re arcs these ebrake shoes (a lost art?) .. or maybe not...lol
Are you saying the shop removed the rear brake callipers and rotors to look at the e-brake shoes and claim the e-brake shoes are the problem and they cannot adjust them as described in the factory shop manual? No broken parts in the e-brake mechanism, springs, adjusters, etc.?
Never heard of C3 shoes having to be arched.
Does this shop normally work on C3 brake systems?
82 ebrake issues
