Looking for Advice
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 769
Likes: 36
From: Goose Creek SC
Looking for Advice
Here is the situation I am asking for advice about. I am getting ready for an engine start on an engine that has not ran in several years. The engine was built starting with a bare block so all components are new. It was installed by a shop, started and ran for a short time. It has a roller cam and rockers. After that the car was worked on for a long time with no restarts on the engine. Now I am at the stage that I am ready to get it running again. I plan to put some oil in the cylinders and give it a crank. What else should I do? What kind and how much oil should I squirt in the cylinders first?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,411
Likes: 1,821
From: Apple Valley, MN
How long is “several years”?
What kind of carb(s)? Was it/were they drained before putting into storage?
Were any kind of preservation steps taken?
Does it turn easily?
I’d get one of the inexpensive borescopes and look into the cylinders to see what shape the walls are in.
I’d drain the oil and put in fresh high zinc oil. I’d pull the distributor and, using a drill, spin the oil pump to pre-lubricate the galleys. I’d pull the float bowls on the carbs and see what shape the internals are in.
Most definitely have a fire extinguisher handy when you initially fire it.
What kind of carb(s)? Was it/were they drained before putting into storage?
Were any kind of preservation steps taken?
Does it turn easily?
I’d get one of the inexpensive borescopes and look into the cylinders to see what shape the walls are in.
I’d drain the oil and put in fresh high zinc oil. I’d pull the distributor and, using a drill, spin the oil pump to pre-lubricate the galleys. I’d pull the float bowls on the carbs and see what shape the internals are in.
Most definitely have a fire extinguisher handy when you initially fire it.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 769
Likes: 36
From: Goose Creek SC
In addition to the pre oil in the cylinders I intended to change the oil and use a zinc additive as I had in there before. Great suggestion about the borescope. I have one and will examine the cyl walls when I squirt in the Marvel Oil. I was planning to use that unless I heard a better recommendation so Marvel it is. I had not thought about turning it over but that is a good idea. I have typically used a drill to run the oil pump but since this has been ran and since I am paranoid about jazzing up the timing, I think I will avoid that. I may pour some oil in over the rockers? The fuel tank is new and has nothing in it. I planned to disconnect the fuel line and drain it and the fuel pump. Outstanding idea about the fire extinguisher, Good feedback and it is appreciated. Thanks.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 4,182
Likes: 1,178
From: out of nowhere
Go to youtube and search the guy that goes by “Problem solver garage”. Once you find him, search his “playlist” and click on “Corvette C3 restoration, complete restoration series, how to restore a corvette c3”. Scroll through his vids and click on “
How to prepare a motor for first start after sitting for many years ( Chevy 350 ) Corvette c3”
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 4,182
Likes: 1,178
From: out of nowhere
Actually, here you go..
Basically, drain/pump out/flush every dang liquid in the car. Flush every system you can. Twice if you can. Pull the plugs and let Marvel mistery oil sit in there a few days to loosen up and soften the impact of any oxidation that may be in the cylinders. Move it/turn it over a few times to work that stuff around before really cranking it and risking scratching up your cylinder walls and rings. Change every filter. Replace fuel lines that are ate up by gas that will gum up a carb. I just bought a ‘71 that has not ran in 10 years, so I will be doing all of this. Such a low cost vs buying a crate motor or a rebuild.
As a side note, if you care too, watch Problem solvers garage entire series. While a bit “rough around the edges”, this guy restores pretty much everything with a focus on keeping what’s there, not on buying replacement stuff.
A more meticulous (more my style) C3 restoration/restomod guy, who is also very thorough with his explanation vids and explanations would be the youtuber “The Driveway”. Just search through his many vids and be ready to learn. Love his focus on teaching and his camera work. He makes sure you “get it”.
Hope this helps!
As a side note, if you care too, watch Problem solvers garage entire series. While a bit “rough around the edges”, this guy restores pretty much everything with a focus on keeping what’s there, not on buying replacement stuff.
A more meticulous (more my style) C3 restoration/restomod guy, who is also very thorough with his explanation vids and explanations would be the youtuber “The Driveway”. Just search through his many vids and be ready to learn. Love his focus on teaching and his camera work. He makes sure you “get it”.
Hope this helps!
Last edited by litevette; Oct 8, 2024 at 09:27 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,694
Likes: 833
From: WI
You could get fancy and pre-pressurize (and flow) oil through the engine ...and that wouldn't hurt, esp if ti has high compression and hd springs. But I've had some used engines I've bought and I just did like you're saying and put some oil in each cylinder....& pulled the coil wire and cranked over a bit before going 'live'. But those were stock engines too. If you wanted to do the best, then the best would be to put a drill and spin the distributor shaft. How necessary is it? IDK
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 4,182
Likes: 1,178
From: out of nowhere
You could get fancy and pre-pressurize (and flow) oil through the engine ...and that wouldn't hurt, esp if ti has high compression and hd springs. But I've had some used engines I've bought and I just did like you're saying and put some oil in each cylinder....& pulled the coil wire and cranked over a bit before going 'live'. But those were stock engines too. If you wanted to do the best, then the best would be to put a drill and spin the distributor shaft. How necessary is it? IDK
Thanks for catching that as I left it out in my synopsis above.
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