When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Where on a 1973 L82 engine block would I find the numbers to ascertain if the car is "numbers matching" and what numbers am I specifically looking for (VIN?)
On the right (passenger side) front of the block, just forward of the head will be a pad with a machined surface. On this pad will be two sets of numbers and letters. One set will begin with a letter (either a "V" on small blocks or a "T" on big blocks), followed by four numbers and finally two or three letters, this will be the engine assembly date and identifying suffix code. The second set of numbers and letters will be the VIN derivative and should match at least the last six digits of your VIN.
The suffix codes for a 73 L-82 are "CLD" (with an automatic), "CLH" (California automatic), "CLR" (4 speed) or "CLS" (California 4 speed).
Be sure to validate it is not a restamp. Get a picture of the block casting number and casting date on the rear “shelf”, left and right sides, respectively.
To give you a better idea of what you're looking for, here are a few pictures of stamp pads that I was referencing in my previous post.
This is a pad from a 71, but the pads are all the same shape on small blocks up to 1977. "V" is the Flint engine plant, "0602" is the engine's assembly date, June 2nd and "CGZ" is the engine suffix code, in this case a 1971 LT-1. The numbers to the left ending in "561" are the VIN derivative.
This is the pad from a 72 LT-1 built on February 21st (0221), though the "V" for Flint is being blocked by the fuel line.
This pad is from a 1963. In this example the engine was built at Flint on on December 3rd (1203, and is a 327/300 with a Powerglide Trans (SD). Note that prior to 1967 the engine code for Flint was "F", but after that Chevrolet changed the code for Flint to a "V".
If your pad is rusty or covered with paint, do not use anything abrasive to clean it. Original pads have machining marks known as "broach marks" on them, that makes it easy to identify a real pad. Using something abrasive with remove the broach marks, so it's always better to use paint stripper or thinner, WD40, or something similar and a soft rag, old tooth brush, etc to clean the pad. The broach marks are easiest to see in the second picture above of the 72 pad.
If your pad is rusty or covered with paint, do not use anything abrasive to clean it. Original pads have machining marks known as "broach marks" on them, that makes it easy to identify a real pad. Using something abrasive with remove the broach marks, so it's always better to use paint stripper or thinner, WD40, or something similar and a soft rag, old tooth brush, etc to clean the pad.
This is excellent advice. Do not use anything abrasive or mechanical to remove paint or rust from the stamp pad as it will almost certainly cause damage to the pad’s surface… Which is just as important as the stamped numbers themselves.
The broach marks are easiest to see in the second picture above of the 72 pad.
Probably not the best example. While there are “lines” that can be seen, these are not machine marks made be the broaching machine. This pad is definitely a restamp.
Probably not the best example. While there are “lines” that can be seen, these are not machine marks made be the broaching machine. This pad is definitely a restamp.
Stan Falenski
Here is a pic of my '67 engine pad and its broach marks – I've owned the car since '79 and it's never had the engine rebuilt:
Numbers Matching?
