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I’m in the process of making up a new set of wires for my car. Wondering how much slack to leave at the distributor.
Are you normally able to remove the distributor cap with the wires still on and just push some of the extra length back down into the shields or are they shorter and require removal from the cap to get it off and service the rotor and points.
It's awfully nice to be able to pull the cap free of the rotor without disconnecting the wires. Doesn't have to be much slack, but then again, doing the factory configuration with the full shielding on some of our cars won't allow this.
Big blocks using the shielding grounds deep in the brackets requires disconnecting the tiny nut from the stud -- I'd rather pull the wires! When I pulled my 427 this summer for a rebuild, I found 2 of those small nuts and a tiny lock washer on top of the bell housing... and I still removed the correct number of nuts and washers from the studs.
I also have a big block in my 69, but I am able to undo the cap and turn it over towards the front of the engine as long as I have my 3x2 air cleaner out of the way. Doesn't move very far, but enough to work in the distributor.
Once i get all the sheilding back on, I’ll push a bit back into them so i have some slack and then cut them to a good length. Should allow me to continue to pull the cap to work on the distributor without having to remove wires.