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Could you guys review this and give me some ideas on what I could change up? This will be for a 75-79 C3 Corvette with a goal of a reliable 500rwhp. I would like it to be daily driver capable, although it will likely only ever be used for date nights, car shows, and crusin the coast in south Mississippi.
Also the numbers are rough estimate on prices based on my research so far.
Engine: (L99 bored and stroked to a 416) 5k
ARP Fasteners. 400
Smeding performance balanced and forged LS Rotating kit (4.070 bore) 3.1k
**15cc Dish pistons** (may change these based on compression?)
AFR 245CC Heads CNCed to 80mm 3.6k
Texas speed LS3 Stage 2 Turbo cam 400
Fast lsxr 102mm intake 1.2k
Bigmouth 102mm throttle body 400
D1SC Procharger (If I can find a good used one) 3k
Intercooler 1k
Long tube headers 1-3k (No idea what ones to go with since I want the side exhaust if possible)
Dyno Tune day 600
Transmission: Performa built 4l60e black edition 7k
Rear end: Texas Speed moser 9 1.5k
Suspension: VBP Grand Touring plus suspension kit 2k
This is obviously a huge wish list and going to take a massive amount of work. I know I could significantly reduce the cost by swapping it for a lq4 408 stroker, but I really like the idea of the L99/Ls3. I may be able to be convinced to go 408 for the iron block’s reliability although I do like the weight reduction of the aluminum, and I don’t plan on running high boost numbers. I also would prefer to have AC in the car, it’s extremely hot and humid down here. If I need to go N/A to keep AC would it be possible to achieve a daily drivable 500rwhp with an LS3/L99 or would I need to set my goals a little lower?
This is for a possible first time build. I'm trying to weight the options between the c3 and c6.
Have Gary Ramadei (GTR1999) build your rear differential.
He builds the worlds best and strongest Corvette differential.
If someone is telling you they can do it for $1.5k, run and run fast.
You’ll need the best for what you’re planning to put in front of it.
With a user name of, "not sure what to build". And a list that looks like a dream that is extremely incomplete. And a car that seems to not even know what year it is.
Not thinking I'm worried about his strange rear end.
With a user name of, "not sure what to build". And a list that looks like a dream that is extremely incomplete. And a car that seems to not even know what year it is.
Not thinking I'm worried about his strange rear end.
It definitely is an incomplete dream. I have the cash to buy the car for now. Everything else will come over time. I'm just struggling with the idea of dropping 20k on a car just to rip everything out of it afterwards. I have found a few for 5-8k but the birdcages and frames have been rusted out. I was hopeful coming into this that I would find one for under 10k so I could also pick up the l99 that's local and have it bored and honed and actually start on the build.
Have Gary Ramadei (GTR1999) build your rear differential.
He builds the worlds best and strongest Corvette differential.
If someone is telling you they can do it for $1.5k, run and run fast.
You’ll need the best for what you’re planning to put in front of it.
Would I really need more than a moser 9 for 500rwhp and around 500 tq? I know the build list is capable of far more, but I would be running extremely low boost numbers. From my research the Texas speed moser 9 can handle up to 1000 and I figured at half that it would be much more reliable.
I know nothing about the rear differential you are looking at, but if someone is telling you they can build you a rear differential that will stand up against 1000 hp for only $1,500.00, run because something is seriously wrong.
I know nothing about the rear differential you are looking at, but if someone is telling you they can build you a rear differential that will stand up against 1000 hp for only $1,500.00, run because something is seriously wrong.
You are absolutely right, i went back and looked and i had the wrong options selected. For what I would need from Texas speed it's a little over 5.3k
$5.3 K is still pretty cheap for a rear differential especially one that will withstand 1000 hp.
If they aren’t advertising it as a 12 bolt 1480 set up it might last for a couple of passes, be then maybe not.
I would be worried about the quality of parts they are putting into it.
Especially the quality of machining and assembly which is labor extensive.
$5.3 K is still pretty cheap for a rear differential especially one that will withstand 1000 hp.
If they aren’t advertising it as a 12 bolt 1480 set up it might last for a couple of passes, be then maybe not.
I would be worried about the quality of parts they are putting into it.
Especially the quality of machining and assembly which is labor extensive.
I wont be at, or even near 1000rwhp, at least hopefully not. Wanting to keep it around 500. Do you think I would need the stouter one even then?
500 hp, probably not a 12 bolt but a really well built 10 bolt should stand up to it.
But it always depends on how hard you plan to drive the car.
Make sure you upgrade everything especially go with solid Spicer u joints.
Make your tires the weak link and choose a tire that will spin easily, because when the tires grab is when you could break other expensive things.
As you go forward, search for older threads and keep asking questions in new threads to get the answers you need.
I’ve asked a million questions on here and have gotten really good advice.
500 hp, probably not a 12 bolt but a really well built 10 bolt should stand up to it.
But it always depends on how hard you plan to drive the car.
Make sure you upgrade everything especially go with solid Spicer u joints.
Make your tires the weak link and choose a tire that will spin easily, because when the tires grab is when you could break other expensive things.
As you go forward, search for older threads and keep asking questions in new threads to get the answers you need.
I’ve asked a million questions on here and have gotten really good advice.
Thanks. It will be used in some burn outs but mostly just cruising.
In my opinion, a 400 ci LS with AFR heads and a Procharger will produce WAY more than 500 rwhp, but stress on the rear is limited by traction. With regular street tires, on the street (not a prepped track) and an automatic trans, a competently built, stock type, iron C3 diff with solid u joints will hold up just fine.
The engine I use for 600rwhp dynojet (750bhp) is LM7 Its basically a free engine from junkyards I put one into my car 2017 make 600rwhp gasoline since then 50,000 miles the engine has over 230,000 miles now perfection for a free engine (all details in build thread in sig)
The diff I used for 600rwhp daily driver 25mpg is 300ZX/Q45 because its $250 used IRS like a Porsche suspension capable of wheel stand launches with 3800lbs vehicle historically
Don't know if you can make the diff or engine fit but these are my initial go-to options for daily driver + stock parts reliability = high output
the engine I recommend if you want to spend a couple dollars however is the L33 because its -120lbs off the nose from an SBC and stronger than the LM7 block for 1000rwhp daily driver applications although in a little C3 I would do a six to 700rwhp blower dealeo personally the more simple and easier