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I have a 1969 350 small block that has started burning oil through the exhaust. Looking to get opinions if I should rebuild the engine or replace the existing with another 350 350 small block. Existing engine is original to the car. I live in New Jersey and wondering how much each would cost.
Since it’s an L46 and numbers matching I would definitely be rebuilding it rather than replacing. Your average small block rebuild is usually a couple grand on average for all the machine work and assembling.
But that number can change if you want to do things to it. Are you looking for a mostly stock rebuild or are you wanting to change things around like the heads or a cam?
That is what I'm leaning to as well. Would you (or anyone) know of a good shop where I can take it?
Where are you at in NJ?
If you plan on pulling the engine yourself, then I can tell you that I've had very good luck with IDM Speed and Machine in RT 9 in West Creek (Stafford TWP/Manahawkin area). I've had them do a number of engines for my customers and know a couple other shops in the area that use them too. It's been a couple years since I had an engine there and it was a 63 327/300 out of a split window. The block was in bad shape and previously sleeved. They needed to remove the old sleeves and install new ones, along with a complete rebuild, that came to about $5000-$5500, if I remember right. 609-978-6411
If you need someone to pull the engine and do the work, I'd call Glen at Hillside Corvette in Bridgewater. I don't know who he uses for machine work, but Glen has a complete Corvette repair and restoration shop and does high quality work. 848-702-0983
I agree with the above, the L-46 is a great engine. Rebuild it and make sure the shop does not deck the block. If they do wish to deck it, make sure you get it in writing that they will save the numbers on the front right side of the block. Jerry
I would go with rebuilding the existing engine over re-powering the car with a different engine.
The cost of the rebuild will likely be cheaper than swapping in a new engine. If you do them in a "Hurry" then you will pay the "Rush" prices. Take your time and let them just work the parts in and you can save money and make "happy" machinists all at the same time.
An owner of a local Speed Shop built my engine with parts purchased from his shop. We took a long time to get to finish the engine as we built it as I could afford the parts. Everything had to be Forged and every part was magna-fluxed just to be safe. By Christmas time we were done with my engine so he had a big Christmas party with my engine on a stand in the middle of the room. My buddy sold so many engines after people saw what he had built for me. He had a list of work for most of the following year building custom engines. There were a bunch of people who wanted MY personal engine, I could have sold it for twice it's worth.
My engine was a "work of art" and was just plain beautiful before it was installed in a freshly painted and detailed engine compartment. I did it over a year long period and I saved a bunch of money doing it that way. I saved enough that I was able to hire a Corvette Shop to install the engine and make the engine compartment look right. They rebuilt the shifter as well as the front wiring harness and the car looked even better after they worked on it.
gbvette62 - I called Hillside Corvette already and they don't have a spot for me until mid-June of 2025. I called Ray's Rods and Restorations but they have yet to get back to me. I'm in the process of calling Corvette Paramedics. Would have any other suggestions?
gbvette62 - I called Hillside Corvette already and they don't have a spot for me until mid-June of 2025. I called Ray's Rods and Restorations but they have yet to get back to me. I'm in the process of calling Corvette Paramedics. Would have any other suggestions?
BTW: going with a rebuild.
Chances are good that Paramedics has a wait too. These days any good shop has a backlog of work. I was talking to Jim at Jim Glass Corvette in Kingston NY yesterday, and he was telling me he's booked up through May or June.
Paramedics will do a good job, but between them and Glen at Hillside, Hillside would probably be my first choice. Paramedics might be able to turn it around a little quicker though because Ed has 4 or 5 guys working for him in the shop, while Glen is a one man operation. I know both businesses and the principles at each well and know they both do good work.
There's also Russ Corvette Restoration in Hainesport, but I know Steve is 9-12 months out on work right now. If you're considering having any paint or restoration work done in the future, you'd have a hard time finding anyone in NJ as good as Steve Russ.
There was another Corvette shop here in South Jersey that due to some personal issues, had to close and the owner went to work for someone else. He has a shop again, and I know he and his father (an NCRS 300 level judge) have been working on cars for themselves in it, but I don't know if he's doing any outside work. I can try to reach him or his father this weekend. I haven't talked with either of them since Corvette Carlisle, so I should call and say hi anyway.
Why not access the condition of your motor, by preforming a compression test or a leak down. Your oil burning could just be valve stem seals.
Get the car up to a moderate speed (say 60 mph) on an open road, let off the gas and allow the engine to slow the car to around 30, then accelerate. If you see blue smoke immediately after the acceleration, it is most likely valve guide seals which can be replaced without much effort and without pulling the heads.
I would also do a cylinder leak down test to see where you’re at.
Pull the engine, put it on a stand in your garage, and rebuild it yourself! No one will EVER care what number is on the block until you sell the car, and you can take your time rebuilding it. Or let it sit on the stand for the next owner to throw away, or let haunt his garage.
Buy a crate engine, install it, and drive the car this spring!
There's a certain nostalgia value to opening your hood and seeing an original looking engine bay. Plus the L46 is a good performer. I had mine stroked and roller cam'd. Not something anyone could notice from the exterior, but it sure pep'd things up. I'd go for the rebuild. Come time to sell it, the value will be there as well as the performance improvement. Average driver quality crate engine, not so much.
If you have the space and time, you can always rebuild it yourself and save a lot in labor.
small block Chevys are very easy to rebuild, and the support for how-to is all over the internet.
First thing I would do is get my name on a couple of waiting lists of the highly recommended shops.
Take the time to visit the shops and see what type of equipment they use and who is using it.
The machine shop that built my engine has been in business at the same location and owner/operated by the same family for almost 60 years.
Most of the machinists have been with them for 40+ years.
They build everything from blown alcohol monsters to John Deere tractor engines.
Talk with the owner to make sure they will build the engine the way you want it, whether all stock or stroked with a roller valve train.
But also listen to any and all recommendations they have to offer.
Make sure they will use all quality components, and if you are planning to use the original heads ask what they will do with the heads to freshen them up.
If the block needs to be decked, insure the shop can save the original stamping or be prepared to loose it.
As old as these cars are becoming having the numbers matching block doesn’t really mean anything unless everything on the car is original and it’s a trailer queen.
Some things that were important to me was having a shop that could dyno tune the engine and offered a warranty.