When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I recently had the vacuum-based headlight door openers on my 73 replaced with electric door openers. The good news is that they work great. Doors open and close in about a second. However, I just noticed that when I activate my high beams, the doors close as if I have turned off the lights.... Of course, I am bringing the car back to the mechanic who did the installation, but I'm not sure he will be able to figure out the problem. I'd like to bring him a solution. Any ideas?
Don't know what system you have so I certainly can't give you wire colors or any precise information.
And I have no idea why you let someone else work on your car . But.
There is a wire that activates the opening of the doors. He has hooked it up to the low beam wire so when the low beams are on, that wire receives voltage and opens the doors.
He should have ran that wire to the power wire before the dimmer switch. Which of course is behind the dash and a lot harder to do correctly. He could also run that wire to the parker light wire but your doors would open if you only had your parking lights on.
Don't know what system you have so I certainly can't give you wire colors or any precise information.
And I have no idea why you let someone else work on your car . But.
There is a wire that activates the opening of the doors. He has hooked it up to the low beam wire so when the low beams are on, that wire receives voltage and opens the doors.
He should have ran that wire to the power wire before the dimmer switch. Which of course is behind the dash and a lot harder to do correctly. He could also run that wire to the parker light wire but your doors would open if you only had your parking lights on.
Thanks for the info. One more question: How does one keep the headlight doors open after turning off the headlights (like when you need to replace one of the lights)
All this makes me so happy I have the stock vacuum operated headlight doors. So simple, so reliable. And I can open them without having them on just to service or clean them.
When I installed the elec conversion in my 78 a long time ago I also installed a headlight bucket switch from a C2. Constant power to the switch and then from the switch to the new motors. It might sound like extra work to open them up,, but I had a C2 for about 15 years and never thought twice about the procedure. They can be opened or closed anytime I want.
It is not wired correctly- if the electric kit has only one trigger wire - it should go all the way to the dimmer switch...
It sounds as if it was just wired just to the low beam-
Use any source for constant power. The blue or trigger wire gets connected to the wire going into the dimmer switch that gets hot when the lights are turned on. Thats the way mine is wired. No need to get to the headlamp switch.
Use any source for constant power. The blue or trigger wire gets connected to the wire going into the dimmer switch that gets hot when the lights are turned on. Thats the way mine is wired. No need to get to the headlamp switch.
This is the proper way to wire the electric motors and the way the instructions in my electric headlight motor kit says to do it. To leave the headlights up for servicing, you may elect to jump power to the trigger wire to raise them or use the mechanical drive wheel on the motor itself to spin the motor to the up position by hand...easy to do. Just spin the motor manually back to the closed position when done servicing. I really like the electric motor operated headlights. They pop up and go down much nicer plus I got rid of a whole bunch of rubber vacuum lines and actuators. Motors are easy to install and wiring very straight forward. Also, I would recommend getting the install instructions from whoever did the work so you know how to deal with any operation questions you have going forward. Maybe your install guy can show you where he ran the trigger wire.
Interesting that GM/Corvette chose to move from electric lamp buckets for the C2's to vacuum operated buckets in the C3's. Some think that was strictly because of cost. I believe that long term reliability was an issue, as well. Also, likely less expensive to repair a vacuum type system than electric motors. Just some thoughts....
But then they went back to elec in the C4. Maybe all those hoses and those relays and the switches were not as reliable as the accountants claimed they would be.
But then they went back to elec in the C4. Maybe all those hoses and those relays and the switches were not as reliable as the accountants claimed they would be.
maybe, but I had a lot more trouble with my C4 headlight doors than my C3's, and much earlier on in there life's.
Really never had any trouble whatsoever in my 77 until it was well over 40 years old. That's actually pretty reliable for a automobile.
Now, all my vacuum system rebuilt, holding vacuum like Fort Knox. All I'd great again. Hopefully I'll get another 45 years our of it. That's likely longer than I'll be on this planet.
I'm sure there was an engineering "tug of war" in the Corvette design enclave about which way to go. In the end, the electronic systems won out. I'm not saying that was a 'negative'. I just think vacuum systems get a lot of bad vibes because of unjustified negative stigmas about them. It is just a simple way to power light-duty systems using existing engine-provided [vacuum] energy. Don't care for vacuum operated systems? That's OK, too.