I posted and received feedback about "how high" I'd have to be , to lift the body to clear the frame and now that I have the frame bare; I wanted to give a follow-up. (1972 base convertible) They don't come apart easily but the tips here sure help. Some pics:

Bottom side

only rust thru area

top side view

opposite side
I've been struggling with my decision on the frame and overall plan is finish chassis, then engine and then body. Time is somewhat important so I decided to order a new frame from vendor in Michigan. I have the welding skills (but sold all my equipment 2 yrs ago prior to move) but there is a lot of structure in that area and a lot of flaking rust and pitting in a lot of places. I was not comfortable just patching the rotted area and not up to replacing the structure in that area. Costs I received for having the work done were almost same as new frame. I hope to get something for the used frame at some point. The new frame is on order (4 weeks) and within the week dropping off the differential and trailing arms for rebuild. The front suspension and steering has been previously rebuilt. In 5 weeks I could be back to putting it together (yah). I'm having a taller gear installed (3.08 to 3.36 I think) and still want to change to clutch car although will see how the chassis goes. I am anxious to get to the engine which I'll do myself (less machining of course). I want it as original looking as possible without worrying about NCRS. It will never be a collector. Any way that is my update. TTFN

 

Good call on replacing the frame. The problem with trying to patch the frame is that rust will always reappear somewhere else weather it be months or a couple of years. The old frame is only good for scrap IMO.

 

thanks for the validation and feedback

 

3.36. Good gear choice for street and highway.

 

Art Morrison Ent. now has C3 frames.

 

If you were to electrochemically strip that frame, you’d have Swiss cheese effect all over.

 

 

Feel better about my decision, I was debating about having it dipped before I decided

 

You made the right choice to replace, like others say once it starts rusting there no stopping it.

 

There was someone on here selling a frame a year or so ago, you might want to look through the classifieds. If no luck there, then I'd be looking down in Arizona for a frame, they usually go for under $2K

 

If you ordered an original frame there are things you’ll want to do before you powder coat it or if it isn’t too late call the manufacturer and have them include them into your order.
Make sure they are completely stitch welding the frame.
The factory originals were not completely welded along all the seams and you will want that done or do it yourself.
If you plan to make the car a manual make sure they install the welded on bracket for the clutch bracket.
The brackets were only installed to the manual transmission frames so you will want one installed.
Also make sure the frame is built with a removable transmission crossmember which were only installed on automatic transmission frames.
Read through Ron Shea’s Chevrolet Corvette PowerBook regarding the welded in gussets to help strengthen the frame and reduce any twisting.
If you’re building a completely stock 72 the gussets may not be necessary but they would be nice additions on those fun twisting roadways.
Keep us posted.

 

I'm getting an original frame from Vette Products of Mi and the painting service they can provide is 2 part epoxy so for now I just kept it at the frame w/o paint. Checking around locally for powder coat. If anyone has a recommendation in the central Indiana area please pass it on and what I might expect it to cost. I plan to complete the seam welds as suggested and also saw your reference to the Powerbook on the "72 resto mod thread" that is ongoing. I downloaded it and am trying to track down a set of the gussets. Worse case they look easy to fab. That's a good tip on the clutch bracket so I will check into that and see if they do that. They probably just got my deposit (checks only on frame deposits) so have time.
Appreciate all the feedback.

 

This guy produces a good quality set of the gussets.
He made the ones I purchased and they were perfect.

There are two types of the clutch brackets.
One is a bolt on which are cheap, thin and have been reported to bend.
The oem type are thick steel and need to be welded into place.
The oem type are the ones you want and available from Silver Sport Transmissions and a couple other Corvette Vendors.

 

 

I purchased a new frame for my 65 from Vette Products of Michigan. The body dropped right on.

Bob K.

 

If you can stab those questionable areas with a medium sized Phillips screwdriver (HARD) and not penetrate the metal, you have surface rust. Wire brush any loose stuff off and have at it.