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I’m finally getting around to fixing the horn on my 72. The horn button and relay work and it is grounded properly. The physical horn itself is dragging and struggling to actuate. Does anyone have a link for a video to watch so I can rebuild it. It appears to have pins that need to be driven out. I see replacement horns but i would prefer to repair the original. Thanks
I wasn't able to drive out the rivets on my '72's horn -- had to drill them out which ruined them. Perhaps more judicious drilling of the center so the swaged side of the rivets can be pushed inward would allow them to be driven out. The horn's insides were pretty rusted, but I was able to clean it up well enough that it works. When reassembling, I used small socket head screws to sort of mimic the rivets. It sounds kinda like a sick moose -- being just the single tone horn, but it works.
How do you know that it is grounded 'properly'? Ohmmeter check? That will only tell you the resistance to small current flows. The horn requires some significant current; and if there is only a small path for current that is available, the horn will not get enough current to fully actuate.
Suggestion: Use one of the wires in a jumper cable set to establish a GOOD ground from battery to the ground side of horn and try it again. If it still acts the same, the horn is likely bad. If it is now a strong horn, remove and clean the ground connection to the horn.
P.S. It is still possible that the ground path is OK, but the 12vdc path is damaged. But, that would be a very low probability compared to a defective ground.
May not be the button itself. Like all the electronics in these Vettes, some have great ground contacts, some don't.
As I recall, the horn is either grounded through the shaft under the dash on some models but others its grounded thru the Rag-Joint.
That is why the Rag-Joint is interwoven with steel inside the rubber.
Is your steering a little sloppy. Could be the Rag-Joint is well worn.
To test the horns GRD (or lack of) hold a jumper wire on the lower steering shaft then to the upper shaft above the RJ while someone activates the button.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; May 25, 2025 at 06:24 PM.
Ground is thru the ragjoint. If the stock ragjoint has been changed to a piece that does not have ground transfer capability, that could well be your problem. But, the "substitute" ground cable or testing out of the car will still be the test to determine if it is a ground issue or the horn.
Sorry I should have made that clear. Yes it did. Maybe a hair stronger but pretty pathetic.
Without hearing a recording, I'd say that could be normal. The '72s only came with a single horn, not the classic GM dual-note horns. I think it sounds terrible because there's no upper note to balance the low note.