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My last posts regarded whether or not to replace/repair my old frame on "72 vert.
couple shots here of the old frame the old frame, quite rusty on surface the bad
I actually cut the frame apart to see how bad other areas were and I have to say it was salvageable with good steel left. The above kick up area would have required someone with skills to repair. I just know when I used jack stands it opened up the door jams and while that may be somewhat normal. I wanted to ensure the integrity long term. brand new frame off the original C3 tooling. certainly the welding far superior than factory and I added gusset kit for strength but not in this pic Here is a closer detail for those interested Frame after powder coating and I'm ready to rock and roll. Parts everywhere ready to go back on.
The transmission (TH400) is being rebuilt and mild shift kit added. I hate myself for not converting to clutch but I just couldn't keep up with the damage I'd do at my age with clutch and not sure my grandson would use good judgment when he gets it. I'm still going back and forth though.
Really pondering the engine mods and looking for a shop to do the machining. Right now thinking 383 rotating assy with flat top pistons, flat tappet cam, Al 64cc heads, AL intake and headers. Not sure how much or little I will do myself. My last rebuild was this flatty and I love those engines
corvette with flathead?
Of course quadrajet rebuild by Lars. I've already reached out to Lars and just want to make sure I don't get it done too soon and leave it dry. I have to say it but Lars' response reminded me of the Jerry Seinfeld soup **** episode, I loved it. I have work to do on the body as well (#4 left body mount repair/replace, front header light bar bubbling and paint job) but will drop body back on chassis first to sort that out. Wire harness is another decision point, but probably do engine harness at least at this point. I continue to rely on the input of others on this forum and really appreciate the help and experience.
Man that frame looks fantastic. I think the gussets were a great ad knowing the flexibility of these frames stock. Flat head in a ‘Vette? I’ve always loved the look of them. Plus, we have ‘Vette’s here with LS motors, Jag motors… why not a flat head? I think it would look pretty cool!
Very nice work! That frame looks absolutely perfect which is really difficult to do with a fifty (plus) year old frame which is why the reproduction frame is so appealing.
I have a question for you, but have a couple of points to make first… I don’t want to step on your thread, but considering where you got your frame, perhaps I can offer some insight to people who may be considering a frame from where you and I bought ours.
After speaking to some people who have used a Vette Products of Michigan frame as well as reading some additional feedback on the forum, I also purchased a frame from them for my 1969 project. My original frame could certainly be saved, but I would never be able to address all of the pitting to a point where I would be satisfied with the end result. I paid my deposit and waited the three or four months lead time. There were some differences in what VPofM believed a 1969 rear crossmember should look like and the crossmember on my own 1969 frame; the manufacturer was less than helpful, but eventually built it as requested (more on that later). Neal (the owner) and a friend of his delivered the frame as they were attending a car show about 30 - 35 minutes away. Frame looked good in general… I did some quick measurements and all looked good.
Having had the frame in my possession for two years now, I can offer the following observations:
- In overall dimensions, it appears to be correct. A forum member stated that a shop he knew used several of them and they worked well (this was with C2s). I’m hoping that trend continues with my frame. I have not mounted the body on the frame yet and probably won’t for another year or two. Time will tell.
- It appears to be well constructed. It has welding similar to factory, but the welds seem to be of higher quality. The stamped metal parts are of the same gauge/material of the original.
- The frame itself is very expensive. About twice the cost of a good used frame (which are getting harder to find).
- There is a long lead time… I believe mine was slightly over four months.
- Shipping is very expensive. I was quoted $1,500 for truck freight, but was told that the owner would be in my area and could deliver it. Still cost me $1,500 (not happy about that, but maybe I was expecting too much).
- Along those lines, customer service is middle of the road at best. I spent multiple telephone calls trying to convince them that their “1972” rear crossmember was more correct for my 1969 than their “1969” crossmember. In fairness, neither is correct, but I can make the “1972” crossmember work. The previously mentioned shipping cost wasn’t clarified either.
- Even if the physical configuration of the frame isn’t important, you will be drilling A LOT of holes for brake line clips, fuel line clips, various brackets, etc. It is time consuming getting everything in the right place. Obviously, John and I have our original frames to use as a reference; it becomes much more difficult if you don’t have a real frame to check your work.
- From an actual configuration standpoint (how closely the details compare to the original), it sucks… No way else to put it. Access holes not cut, access holes in the wrong sizes/places, holes where there shouldn’t be any, location of mounting holes, etc. I probably have 100+ hours trying to get this frame to look like my original frame and I still have work to do. If you want to see details of what I’m talking about, you can go to my Facebook page (Stan’s Corvette Restoration) and take a look. I am not a welder, so the holes that shouldn’t be there are going to cost me as well.
In general, the frame appears as though it will physically fit without issue, but if you are looking for an exact duplicate of any given year frame (certainly 1969), you will be very disappointed without putting a whole lot of work into it. Knowing what I know now, I probably would have waited for a good used frame… I’m sure that one would have turned up in the two years that I’ve had this frame for a lot less money.
Now for my question John. How do the holes for the rear sway bar mounts, fuel tank crossmember, and muffler hangers match up to your original frame? Mine were off by one inch. I spoke with Neal about this and he said they’ve never heard of any issues. That may be the case, but I’m still going to correct it. Just curious if your frame is the same as mine
The small black circles are where the holes are on my original frame.
Regards,
Stan Falenski
Last edited by Rowdy Rat; Jun 18, 2025 at 12:02 AM.
"Now for my question John. How do the holes for the rear sway bar mounts, fuel tank crossmember, and muffler hangers match up to your original frame? Mine were off by one inch. I spoke with Neal about this and he said they’ve never heard of any issues. That may be the case, but I’m still going to correct it. Just curious if your frame is the same as mine"
I will find out soon enough but I didn't have room to keep the old frame around and probably should have considered that. Mine took about 7 weeks and and picked it up. Interesting place to visit and won't comment further on how they are to work with or how the place looked as I wasn't aware of any alternatives to what I wanted to do. Frame looks ok but will spot check a few of the mentioned hole locations later and report back. Yes it is expensive but I wanted a good base to set the rest of the expenses on.
I find all this very interesting. A number of years ago I purchased repair sections from these people.
I found the repair sections to be excellent. All holes correctly placed and sized. And the cost of these parts I felt was fair. I couldn't have been happier.
I then had a bit of a welding project on my hands. Which was completed roughly 18 ta 20 years ago.
I'm still pounding on this car pretty hard. Guess I'm glad I just replaced the weak spots.
I will find out soon enough but I didn't have room to keep the old frame around and probably should have considered that.
That’s too bad John. I would have really liked to know if your rear frame rails were the same as mine. As mentioned, it may not make a difference in actual function, but I’ll feel more comfortable with all of the holes/mounting points in the original locations.
Mine took about 7 weeks and and picked it up. Interesting place to visit and won't comment further on how they are to work with or how the place looked as I wasn't aware of any alternatives to what I wanted to do. Frame looks ok but will spot check a few of the mentioned hole locations later and report back.
I would imagine the lead time changes based on the amount of work in the shop. I recall being told that there were many frames scheduled ahead of mine, so they are doing a lot of business. I only mentioned my personal interaction to give folks a heads up as to what to expect. In fairness, when you are confident in your product, you tend to ignore claimed concerns (especially if nobody has complained before) and as you mentioned, they are pretty much the only game in town. Use them or don’t.
Yes it is expensive but I wanted a good base to set the rest of the expenses on.
That was my take as well. My thinking was that any additional money spent on the front end would be saved on fixing cosmetic issues (which I hate) on an old frame. I didn’t expect all the work required to make it look like the original including the welding which is going to cost more money.
Originally Posted by 4-vettes
I find all this very interesting. A number of years ago I purchased repair sections from these people.
I found the repair sections to be excellent. All holes correctly placed and sized. And the cost of these parts I felt was fair. I couldn't have been happier.
I had purchased repair sections from them as well with no issues which is one of the reasons that I was confident in buying an entire frame. My experience may not be typical ,but I put it out there for others to aware of. The differences in my frame may not cause any major issues, but there ARE differences in some of the locating hoes which I personally confirmed.
Very nice work! That frame looks absolutely perfect which is really difficult to do with a fifty (plus) year old frame which is why the reproduction frame is so appealing.
I have a question for you, but have a couple of points to make first… I don’t want to step on your thread, but considering where you got your frame, perhaps I can offer some insight to people who may be considering a frame from where you and I bought ours.
After speaking to some people who have used a Vette Products of Michigan frame as well as reading some additional feedback on the forum, I also purchased a frame from them for my 1969 project. My original frame could certainly be saved, but I would never be able to address all of the pitting to a point where I would be satisfied with the end result. I paid my deposit and waited the three or four months lead time. There were some differences in what VPofM believed a 1969 rear crossmember should look like and the crossmember on my own 1969 frame; the manufacturer was less than helpful, but eventually built it as requested (more on that later). Neal (the owner) and a friend of his delivered the frame as they were attending a car show about 30 - 35 minutes away. Frame looked good in general… I did some quick measurements and all looked good.
Having had the frame in my possession for two years now, I can offer the following observations:
- In overall dimensions, it appears to be correct. A forum member stated that a shop he knew used several of them and they worked well (this was with C2s). I’m hoping that trend continues with my frame. I have not mounted the body on the frame yet and probably won’t for another year or two. Time will tell.
- It appears to be well constructed. It has welding similar to factory, but the welds seem to be of higher quality. The stamped metal parts are of the same gauge/material of the original.
- The frame itself is very expensive. About twice the cost of a good used frame (which are getting harder to find).
- There is a long lead time… I believe mine was slightly over four months.
- Shipping is very expensive. I was quoted $1,500 for truck freight, but was told that the owner would be in my area and could deliver it. Still cost me $1,500 (not happy about that, but maybe I was expecting too much).
- Along those lines, customer service is middle of the road at best. I spent multiple telephone calls trying to convince them that their “1972” rear crossmember was more correct for my 1969 than their “1969” crossmember. In fairness, neither is correct, but I can make the “1972” crossmember work. The previously mentioned shipping cost wasn’t clarified either.
- Even if the physical configuration of the frame isn’t important, you will be drilling A LOT of holes for brake line clips, fuel line clips, various brackets, etc. It is time consuming getting everything in the right place. Obviously, John and I have our original frames to use as a reference; it becomes much more difficult if you don’t have a real frame to check your work.
- From an actual configuration standpoint (how closely the details compare to the original), it sucks… No way else to put it. Access holes not cut, access holes in the wrong sizes/places, holes where there shouldn’t be any, location of mounting holes, etc. I probably have 100+ hours trying to get this frame to look like my original frame and I still have work to do. If you want to see details of what I’m talking about, you can go to my Facebook page (Stan’s Corvette Restoration) and take a look. I am not a welder, so the holes that shouldn’t be there are going to cost me as well.
In general, the frame appears as though it will physically fit without issue, but if you are looking for an exact duplicate of any given year frame (certainly 1969), you will be very disappointed without putting a whole lot of work into it. Knowing what I know now, I probably would have waited for a good used frame… I’m sure that one would have turned up in the two years that I’ve had this frame for a lot less money.
Now for my question John. How do the holes for the rear sway bar mounts, fuel tank crossmember, and muffler hangers match up to your original frame? Mine were off by one inch. I spoke with Neal about this and he said they’ve never heard of any issues. That may be the case, but I’m still going to correct it. Just curious if your frame is the same as mine
The small black circles are where the holes are on my original frame.
Regards,
Stan Falenski
Stan,
Glad to read this, my replacement frame on my 69 is from them also and my gas tank sits about a inch too far back in the body opening, i thought it was the flange on the gas tank needed to be beat down, never thought to measure the holes for the tank crossmember i bet that's what my problem is also, probably drilled a inch off. i do recall a fight getting the straps on probably from the tank being too far back.
i will check this thanks!
I did have couple shots of the old frame in that area and I know the ruler doesn't help on the new frame, but I have to say it does look to be off by just eyeballing and comparing the shots. I also will have to watch for this when I get to that point it appears.
Stan,
Glad to read this, my replacement frame on my 69 is from them also and my gas tank sits about a inch too far back in the body opening, i thought it was the flange on the gas tank needed to be beat down, never thought to measure the holes for the tank crossmember i bet that's what my problem is also, probably drilled a inch off. i do recall a fight getting the straps on probably from the tank being too far back.
i will check this thanks!
You’re welcome, glad the post was of some help.
The gentleman who helps me out with welding was at my shop and we were discussing this. There is PROBABLY enough play in the muffler mounts to allow installation without issue. There MAY be enough play in the rear sway bar linkage (those so equipped) to allow installation without of the rear sway bar without issue. The problem is the fuel tank crossmember… It positively locates the fuel tank in a specific location as it supports the front of the tank while the rear of the tank is supported by the rear crossmember. If you change the distance between those two crossmembers, you’re going to change the location of the fuel tank.
As I continue to build out the frame I am finding some missing holes in addition to what was pointed out to me in this post that the rear "gas tank area" may be off. No holes for the rear cross over brake line clips (3) nor were there holes for the trailing arm shims cotter key (2). Pretty minor but does illustrate it would be best to hang on to the old frame for comparison purposes which I did not do. That is all the farther I have gotten but illustrates frame is not "turn key". Still happy with it though.
New frame update
