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Old Jul 2, 2025 | 11:02 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by c69vete
Disconnecting the battery while checking the timing serves no purpose. The wiring is still energized by the alternator.
The battery disconnecting reference applies to anytime you are working on the wiring to prevent an accidental grounding event that might blow a fuse or fry a link.
I get it, was just wondering if some people do disconnect the battery doing timing. I always disconnect the battery when installing radio's and other electronic stuff,
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Old Jul 2, 2025 | 02:07 PM
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Obviously, you can't disconnect the battery when checking timing. But you COULD put the positive lead on the alternator output and the negative lead to some bare metal on the engine to keep from shorting the leads.

You can be 'snide' about my response...which was meant to help you in the future...but the situation is as it is....
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Old Jul 2, 2025 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Obviously, you can't disconnect the battery when checking timing. But you COULD put the positive lead on the alternator output and the negative lead to some bare metal on the engine to keep from shorting the leads.

You can be 'snide' about my response...which was meant to help you in the future...but the situation is as it is....

I wasn't meaning to be snide, i was clowning,, Actually that is what i was doing, had the clip lead on the alt output, and grounded to the mounting bracket and when hooking up to the clamp to #1plug it moved the positive lead and shorted on the back of the alt. I could have just died at that point... I appreciate all the help and advice and encouragement, since i am new to corvettes.. its all learning. I should have the fusible link coming in this weekend hopefully, and have it narrowed down to witch one fried. hopefully !!!!
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Old Jul 2, 2025 | 02:43 PM
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Hope that fixes your issue.
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Old Jul 2, 2025 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Hope that fixes your issue.
Thank for the encouragement, i hope so to... and apologize for coming off snide.
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Old Jul 2, 2025 | 04:21 PM
  #26  
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You shouldn't solder a fusible link. Not recommended typically. Crimps are the right thing as long as you have a quality connector and crimper.

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Old Jul 2, 2025 | 06:29 PM
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Last time I picked up fusible links I jsut got them at autozone.
I got 14 gauge for my old 10 gauge lead that went from the horn relay bus to the starter post. I since went to a 6-gauge lead and that has 10-gauge fusible link protection.
You should find some leads that go to the ammeter and those are 16-gauge leads on my 68 and have 20-gauge fusible links for protection.

You want to use a HEAT SINK and solder them on. Have some heat shrink available so you can then cover the soldered area.


Originally Posted by Jojo33
Thank for the encouragement, i hope so to... and apologize for coming off snide.
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Old Jul 18, 2025 | 06:13 PM
  #28  
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Guys,
I want to thank you for all your help. I was on vacation, staycation, and vertigo hit me and was unable to work on the car until today. got it back.
Thank you again for all the knowledge on this to help me out.
Thank you
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