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Brake’s sticking

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Old Aug 3, 2025 | 08:26 PM
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I think there is a return spring atthe top of the brake pedal where the hinge pin goes. If you have to remove the pedal for any reason install a stronger spring.

Another weird thing...the radius on the end of the M.C. push rod amy have a different radius the the female hoke in the mater cylinder This can cause big problems trying to get the correct clearance between the push rod and master cylinder piston....rare but it happens now-a-days.
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Old Aug 13, 2025 | 12:48 PM
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Whenever braking concerns present themselves, it is always highly necessary to have them checked out by a Chevrolet dealership technician as it can pose a safety risk. Our team is happy to assist in setting arrangements for a diagnosis appointment. Simply send us an email to socialmedia@gm.com with more information on your 1974 Corvette to get started.
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Old Aug 13, 2025 | 01:10 PM
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Always funny when the GM chat bot ventures into the older car forums. I have a friend that used to work at a Chevy dealership. I also know my friend, they wouldn’t know the first thing about working on a C3.
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Old Aug 20, 2025 | 05:58 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 4-vettes
Also, if the rod is a tad long. No freeplay at the booster to master. The brakes will hang.
you say work was performed by professionals. Professionals at C3 brakes? Who would know to check the rod length? Or just mechanics who work on old cars? Who of course wouldn't have a clue.
True. Also, some people will tell you that you need a specific air gap between the rod and the master cylinder piston.
Not true.
Too long is bad, but shorter is not a big thing. Your brake pedal has about 7" of free travel. If the gap is bigger, it just means you have more free travel before the brakes engage. You would feel the pedal go down easy, then get harder as the mc piston is actually moved. If the gap is way too big, your pedal may bottom out on the floor before engaging the piston.
Also, if you want to raise your brake pedal, there is a longer clevis available. This raised my pedal 2" to 3" and level with my clutch pedal.
Trial and error does work, but the tool is easier and faster.
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Old Aug 20, 2025 | 06:06 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Sayfoo
True. Also, some people will tell you that you need a specific air gap between the rod and the master cylinder piston.
Not true.
Too long is bad, but shorter is not a big thing. Your brake pedal has about 7" of free travel. If the gap is bigger, it just means you have more free travel before the brakes engage. You would feel the pedal go down easy, then get harder as the mc piston is actually moved. If the gap is way too big, your pedal may bottom out on the floor before engaging the piston.
Also, if you want to raise your brake pedal, there is a longer clevis available. This raised my pedal 2" to 3" and level with my clutch pedal.
Trial and error does work, but the tool is easier and faster.
The mechanic who performed the work will be checking the rod gap. I’ll report back the results.
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Old Aug 28, 2025 | 01:33 PM
  #26  
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I had a sticking brake brake problem. It turned out to be that the rear crossover brake line had a pin hole leak. Replaced it and problem was resolved. Just something more to consider.
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Old Aug 28, 2025 | 01:59 PM
  #27  
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We are replacing the brake booster. The mechanic thinks it’s the issue. I’ll provide an update once complete. Thanks to all for the timely advice. It’s appreciated
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Old Sep 15, 2025 | 04:13 PM
  #28  
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Booster replaced. So far so good. I’ll drive it around a while and report back. I hope this is it.
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